4.0l xj 97 motor into yj 87 - Page 7 - JeepForum.com

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post #91 of 252 Old 09-12-2013, 02:53 PM
Varnish
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Can you take the XJ key, put in the ring, wire it up and shove it somewhere unseen forever?


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post #92 of 252 Old 09-12-2013, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
lbsickboy
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Originally Posted by Varnish View Post
Can you take the XJ key, put in the ring, wire it up and shove it somewhere unseen forever?
im not sure i hop i could use the key in the yj im not sure

still dont know what the white/black wire is for and the blue/ gray wire its there on the c100 but its not in the fsm


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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
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post #93 of 252 Old 09-12-2013, 03:59 PM
SLO_Ken
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Yep, that's definitely the immobilizer, or SKIM (Sentry Key Immobilizer Module).

The easiest thing to do (at least here in the states) is to find a different ECM from a vehicle that did not have the security system installed.

If you are set on using the parts you have, you'll have to install that module in your YJ column, like you said.

The two wires that are twisted together are the CCD Bus wires. Should be wt/bk (-) and vt/br (+). These get spliced into C28 and C30 on your ECM, and also positions 11 and 3 on your data link connector. Any wire you have to splice on to extend these wires should also be twisted together, ~1/2 twist per cm.
The db/gy is batt power. Position E10 on C100.
The single wt/bk is switched power (hot in "run" and "start").
The two bk/lg are ground.
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post #94 of 252 Old 09-12-2013, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
lbsickboy
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Originally Posted by SLO_Ken View Post
Yep, that's definitely the immobilizer, or SKIM (Sentry Key Immobilizer Module).

The easiest thing to do (at least here in the states) is to find a different ECM from a vehicle that did not have the security system installed.

If you are set on using the parts you have, you'll have to install that module in your YJ column, like you said.

The two wires that are twisted together are the CCD Bus wires. Should be wt/bk (-) and vt/br (+). These get spliced into C28 and C30 on your ECM, and also positions 11 and 3 on your data link connector. Any wire you have to splice on to extend these wires should also be twisted together, ~1/2 twist per cm.
The db/gy is batt power. Position E10 on C100.
The single wt/bk is switched power (hot in "run" and "start").
The two bk/lg are ground.
slo
you are my night in shining armer
i think it will be cheaper for me to use what i have. im a lucky bugger i have kept all the wires from under the dash shouldn't be to hard i hope

so i m going to just wire up the wires you mentioned and see what that dose tomorrow.

( MODS ) this topic needs to be a sticky there's so much info for any one with the same problems OBD2


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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
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post #95 of 252 Old 09-12-2013, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Im off to bed my head is banging night al


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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
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post #96 of 252 Old 09-12-2013, 04:26 PM
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Slo you are doing a awesome job. I have followed everything you have posted. You have gone way above and beyond helping him. I will definitely add this to my reference list. Great job.

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post #97 of 252 Old 09-13-2013, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
lbsickboy
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Its alive

i took the immelizer out of the cherokee and wired it up to the yj and the jeep burst into life.
the strange this is it didnt need the key or anything els, which made me happy as larrry.
but i should mention that i had to buy pass the starter relay i hooked up a wire direct from the starter motor and the wired that to the G5 green wire start relay crank.
yellow D5 that is connected to the blue/white wire
Red D4 connected to the black/pink wire
Red E4 connected to the red/black wire as SLO had suggested.

and the best was to come the wires of the skim key came disconnected and the jeep still would start so i thought i would try disconnect all the wires on the skim connector and the jeep still jumped into life.

Slo ken thank you very very very very much for being patient with me and helping out like you have done, if it was not for you i dont know what i would of done


So list of things to do:

connect up the exhaust
used tank out of a wrangler 98 and pump waiting on those parts out the US.
Drive shaft front needs to be longer with a slip shaft and balanced
Drive shaft back needs to be shortened, i will be using the dubble cv joint with a slip shaft if thats what you call it
then theres the gauges fuel and water temp, oil pressure.
then if im right all done.

when im done i will keep you all updated

PS if any one has some tips about the oil pressure and fule gauge be my guest post them up hier.


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post #98 of 252 Old 09-13-2013, 01:25 PM
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For oil gauge, just take sending unit out of the YJ motor and put it in place of the XJ one and run the wire back into F5 in the YJ bulkhead.

'98 TJ, '06 LJ, '88 YJ, '86 CJ, '99 XJ 4dr Ltd
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post #99 of 252 Old 09-13-2013, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varnish View Post
For oil gauge, just take sending unit out of the YJ motor and put it in place of the XJ one and run the wire back into F5 in the YJ bulkhead.
thanks for that, thats one thing sorted


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post #100 of 252 Old 09-13-2013, 01:32 PM
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Well, that was easy!!

One note: I hear that if the immobilizer is disconnected, the computer will still allow the the engine to start, but will shut it down after a few seconds. It sounds like you are not having that problem, but something to watch out for...

Are you going to hook up the diagnostic connector for the OBDII? This would be very helpful for troubleshooting any future problems with your engine...
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post #101 of 252 Old 09-13-2013, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Varnish View Post
For oil gauge, just take sending unit out of the YJ motor and put it in place of the XJ one and run the wire back into F5 in the YJ bulkhead.
Same for the coolant temp. C4 on the YJ bulkhead.
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post #102 of 252 Old 09-13-2013, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
lbsickboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLO_Ken View Post
Well, that was easy!!

One note: I hear that if the immobilizer is disconnected, the computer will still allow the the engine to start, but will shut it down after a few seconds. It sounds like you are not having that problem, but something to watch out for...

Are you going to hook up the diagnostic connector for the OBDII? This would be very helpful for troubleshooting any future problems with your engine...
well that's something i will have to look into if that dose happen.
I must say the engine did start no problems, it did run but not for long because i dont have the fuel tank and pump connected up as of yet, i need the fuel pump sender unit still,
That all has to be wired up when it gets hier.
Also it ran well with only a small amount of petrol, i switched the motor off my self because the exhaust isn't connected,it ran only for a about 2 or 3 seconds.
But started right up again.



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post #103 of 252 Old 09-13-2013, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLO_Ken View Post
Same for the coolant temp. C4 on the YJ bulkhead.
Do you think i could just tap into the sensor on the front at the thermostat house??


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post #104 of 252 Old 09-13-2013, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbsickboy View Post
well that's something i will have to look into if that dose happen.
I must say the engine did start no problems, it did run but not for long because i dont have the fuel tank and pump connected up as of yet, i need the fuel pump sender unit still,
That all has to be wired up when it gets hier.
Also it ran well with only a small amount of petrol, i switched the motor off my self because the exhaust isn't connected,it ran only for a about 2 or 3 seconds.
But started right up again.

You may not be out of the woods with the immobilizer because it does let the engine start, it just won't stay running.

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post #105 of 252 Old 09-13-2013, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Varnish View Post
You may not be out of the woods with the immobilizer because it does let the engine start, it just won't stay running.
Well i just hope that it still works, wont no for sure until i have the tank and pump in and all connected up.
fingers crossed.


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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
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