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ECGS Black Friday Sale!!1993-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Stainless Steel Exhaust Mani1996-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Header Panel

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Unread 03-03-2010, 07:51 PM   #1
cevans87
Registered User
1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 411
4.0 Swap Walkthrough, Build Thread all in One !!!!

I bought my 2nd 88 Wrangler about 2 months ago.

It had already had a 4.0 dropped in, but the dumba** put the carb and intake back on, so I decided to take the motor back to fuel injection.

The motor is 87-90, don't know what the donor was.

The tranny is a Peug BA-10 with cutouts for the CPS.

The Harness, PCM and PDC are out of a 94 XJ.

The intake, and power steering pump are 95XJ.

What I have done so far :

I have mounted the PCM, PDC and installed the wire harness. I have put the intake, down pipe, cps, map sensor and basically everything else on.

I have taken the yellow wire from the xj harness to the green wire coming off ignition. I have taken the blue wire from the xj harness and put it to a switched 12v source.

My first problem, was that i had no lights. I have not tested my theory but think I have figured that problem out. My old right side bulkhead connector was lights, so I re-wired that bulkhead connector in, that should solve the light problem right ?

The next problem, is I have a green wire, and a white/red stripe wire coming off ignition switch, and have tried both only to not have anything at the starter. After a few minutes of testing wires, I lost the ignition switch and all power to the fuse block.

Tonight I replaced the ignition switch, and bought a new headlamp switch.

Tomorrow, I have to fab out a mount for the fuel pump. I need to know what wire is my hot for the fuel pump so I can run the wires. I am keeping my 88yj fuel sending unit and adding a hot and ground to the new pump which is from the xj.

The next question is the green wire/black stripe coming from the PDC, that should go to the starter correct?

Next question, did 94 Cherokee have the Ballast resistor, because I have no wires for it. I have had them on every jeep I've owned, and this is bugging me.

In no way shape or form am I new to Jeeps, just new to the 4.2 to 4.0 swap. I own both motors and have built a pretty stout XJ, I have no complaints with the 4.2 other than it hates the cold which has promted the fuel injection swap, although once the Jeep is painted, and built I will be transplanting a 327 w/ 375 Heads and a M-22 Rock Crusher Tranny with Atlas 2 and Dana 60's or Rockwells.

The only other question I have is do I need the Charcoal Canister, Because I am purging off vaccum for the front axle disconnect and only have MAP sensor and PCV that need hooked up. I have no use for any other vaccum. I don't have cruise, and my heater is manual operation.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

THE FOLLOWING IS AND EDITED POST ABOUT THIS SWAP...

I BOUGHT A 1988 YJ. IT HAD A 4.0L AND PEUG BA-10 THAT THE PO HAD PUT A MOTORCRAFT 2100 CARB AND INTAKE ON, BEING LAZY NOT HAVING TO CHANGE OUT ANY WIRING.

IT'S WINTER IN SOUTH CAROLINA, AND THE CARB WAS NOT DOING IT IN THE MORNINGS FOR ME, BARELY WANTED TO RUN.

I WENT TO THE JUNKYARD AND FOR $159 GOT THE HARNESS, ECM, INTAKE, DOWNPIE WITH O2 SENSOR, CPS, AND SENSORS FOR THIS SWAP OFF A 1994 AND 1995 XJ.

I JUMPED RIGHT IN AFTER READING SEVERAL THREADS ABOUT THE SWAP.

ATTENTION ::: YOU WILL ONLY USE ONE SIDE OF THE XJ BULKHEAD CONNECTOR, KEEP THE OLD YJ RIGHT SIDE BULKHED CONNECTOR AS IT WILL CONTROL YOUR HEADLIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS

AFTER PAINTING AND PUTTING THE HARNESS, ECM, INTAKE, SENSORS AND EVERYTHING ELSE ON, I STARTED TO RUN INTO THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS.

1. WIRING HARNESS

THE OBD1 HARNESS WILL NOT PLUG AND PLAY TO THE YJ HARNESS AT THE BULKHEAD. ALSO YOU WILL ONLY USE THE LEFT SIDE OF THE XJ HARNESS, AS THE OLD RIGHT SIDE WILL CONTROL YOUR HEADLIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS. YOU WILL HAVE TO DO THE FOLOWING AT THE MINIMUM TO GET IT TO START, YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVED YOUR FUSE BLOCK TO SEE THE BACK SIDE OF THE YJ HARNESS TO TRACE WIRES... THERE ARE TWO SCREWS, ONE ON TOP, ONE ON BOTTOM OPPOSITE SIDES... THEN YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE CLIPS HOLDING THE FUSE BLOCK TO THE BULKHD CONNECTOR.

YELLOW WIRE FROM XJ HARNESS TRIGGERS YOUR STARTER, IT WILL NEED TO GO TO YOUR GREEN WIRE AT THE YJ HARNESS, THIS GREEN WIRE IS FOUND AT THE IGNITION SWITCH ALSO, YOU CAN SIMPLY REMOVE THE XJ SIDE BULKHEAD AND DISASEMBLE IT BY TAKING THE TWO PLASTIC COVERS OFF RIGHT AT THE CONNECTOR, AND THEN REMOVING THE WHITE CLIPS ON THE SIDE, AFTER DOING THIS YOU CAN REMOVE THE YELLOW WIRE AND PLACE IT IN THE CORRESPONDING HOLE THAT YOUR YJ HAS THE GREEN WIRE.


THE XJ BIG BLUE WIRE WILL NEED TO TIE IN TO YOUR YELLOW WIRE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH, YOU CAN DO THIS AT THE IGNITION SWITCH, OR TRACE IT BACK TO THE YJ BULKHEAD CONNECTOR, YOU CAN ALSO PUT IT TO A SWITCHED 12V SOURCE. THIS WIRE CUTS THE ECM ON AND TRIGGERS SEVERAL RELAYS IN THE PDC.

FUEL PUMP---

YOU WILL NEED TO GET A EXTERNAL FUEL PUMP CAPABLE OF 39.5PSI FOR OBD1 OR 43PSI FOR OBD2, OR FIND A 91' OR NEWER YJ WITH THE TANK AND PUMP TOGETHER. IF YOU GET A NEW TANK WITH THE PUMP ALREADY IN, YOU CAN PLUG INTO THE FACTORY HARNESS WITHOUT SPLICING ANYTHING

TO GIVE THE FUEL PUMP POWER, YOU WILL HAVE A GREEN/WHITE STRIPE WIRE AT THE XJ HARNESS ONCE YOU HAVE LOCATED THIS, MOVE ON TO NEXT STEP

LOOK UNDER THE DASH AT THE TOP OF THE LEFT KICK PANEL THERE WILL BE A CONNECTOR WITH THREE WIRES, ONE OF THESE IS ORANGE... NOW GO BACK TO YOUR FUEL TANK, LOOK AT THE CONNECTION THERE YOU WILL SEE 3 WIRES GOING IN FROM THE MAIN HARNESS AND ONLY 2 GOING TO THE TANK...

YOU NEED TO TRACE THE ORANGE WIRE TO THE YJ BULHEAD CONNECTOR AND TIE THE GREEN ONE IN BY MOVING THE GREEN WIRE TO MATE THE ORANGE, OR SPLICING THEM TOGETHER.

HEATER BLOWER - -

YOU NEED TO FIND THE ORANGE/BLACK STRIPE AT THE YJ HARNESS AND TRACE IT TO A WIRE ON THE XJ HARNESS, CUT IT ON THE XJ SIDE, NOW GO GET A LENGTH OF WIRE THAT WILL REACH ACROSS THE FIRE WALL, TIE INTO THE WIRE AND THEN RUN IT OVER TO YOUR BLOWER, THERE IS A SINGLE CONNECTION ON THE BLOWER UNDERNEATH THE BATTERY BOX, YOU NEED TO HOOK THE OTHER END OF THAT WIRE TO THIS CONNECTION, AND YOU WILL HAVE HEAT AGAIN.

GUAGES - -

YOU WILL NEED TO TIE IN MOST OF YOUR GUAGES AS THE XJ HARNESS DOES NOT SUPPORT THEM, YOU CAN DO THIS BY REMOVING YOUR GUAGE CLUSTER AND SPLICING NEW WIRES TO THOSE SENSORS.

IE. RUNNING NEW WIRES FROM THE CLUSTER TO EACH INDIVIDUAL SENSOR, TEMP, VOLTS, FUEL, AND OIL.

TACH - GREEN/ORANGE WIRE AT THE IGNITION COIL

FUEL LEVEL - TAN/BLACK STRIPE OFF THE THREE WIRE CONNECTOR AT THE KICK PANEL

OIL PRESURE - RUN A NEW WIRE TO THE SENDER

VOLTS - RUN A NEW WIRE TO THE BATTERY OR FUSE BOX

WATER TEMP - RUN A NEW WIRE TO THE SENDER... BACK DRIVERSIDE, TOP OF THE HEAD

YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO DO ANYTHING FOR YOUR HEADLIGHTS, TAIL LIGHTS, TURN SIGNALS, AND PARK LIGHTS IF YOU USED THE OLD BULKHEAD CONNECTOR LIKE I EXPLAINED...

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - -

MY PEUG BA-10 TRANNY HAD THE CUTOUT AND BOLT HOLES FOR A CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR THIS IS NOT THE CASE IN MOST PUEG BA-10 TRANNYS, IF YOU HAVE THIS TRANNY I WOULD SUGGEST SWAPPING FOR AN EXTERNAL SLAVED AX-15, AS IT IS EASIER TO WORK ON AND REPLACE THE SLAVE IF IT GOES OUT, AND IS A MUCH STONGER TRANNY OVERALL. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE RESOURCES AND $ FOR A TRANNY SWAP, HESCO MAKESA CPS RELOCATION KIT THAT MOUNT ON THE FRONT OF TH OIL PAN AND COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED IT'S ABOUT $240

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR

IF YOUR JEEP ORIGINALY CAME WITH A 4.2L. YOU HAVE A MECHANICAL SPEEDOMETER. YOU WILL NEED TO GO TO AUTOZONE AND GET THE VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR FOR A 1990 JEEP WRANGLER. THIS VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR IS HELD IN THE TRANSFERCASE WITH ONE BOLT. ONCE YOU GET THE 1990 VSS FROM AUTOZONE YOU WILL BE ABLE TO RUN YOU CONNECTOR FOR ECM AND YOUR MECHANICAL CABLE FOR YOUR SPEEDOMETER. YOU CAN DRIVE WITHOUT THE CABLE FOR THE ECM HOOKED UP, BUT YOU RUN A STRONG CHANCE OF THE VEHICLE DIEING WHEN BRAKED HARD.

IF YOU ARE USING THE HARNESS AND ECM OUT OF AN AUTOMATIC AND YOU HAVE A MANUAL TRANNY LISTEN UP!!!!

THERE ARE TWO CONNECTORS RIGHT BEHIND THE VALVE COVER TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE, ONE IS BLACK ONE IS WHITE...

ON THE BLACK ONE YOU WILL SEE LITTLE LETTERS ON THE OUTSIDE... A, B, C AND SO ON... YOU WILL NEED TO GET A FEMALE BUTT CONNECTOR AND PUT IT ON THE B AND C PINS... THIS WILL GROUND OUT THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH AND MAKE THE ECM THINK IT'S IN PARK, WITHOUT THIS YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO START YOUR JEEP ONCE YOUR DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IF YOU DO THIS YOU WILL BE GOOD TO GO.

MY OTHER PROBLEMS CONSISTED OF THE FOLLOWING.

I GOT AN INTAKE OFF A NEW STYLE JEEP, IT HAS BETTER FLOW RATE THE PREVIOUS YEARS, THE REASON THIS WAS A PROBLEM WAS I NEEDED A DIFFERENT POWER STEERING PUMP, AND POWER STEERING PUMP MOUNT, AFTER THIS WAS ALL ON, I NEEDED A DIFFERENT BELT... ONCE I HAD THE CORRECT BELT BECAUSE I WAS USING AN OLDER 4.0 ENGINE, THE BELT WOULD BE RUBBING RIGHT AGAINST THE TIMING MARKS, WHAT I DID WAS MAKE SURE I HAD THE POWER STEERING PUMP, ALTERNATOR, WATER PUMP, AND CRANKSHAFT GOING IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION AND THEN PUT MY BELT ON, YOU WILL FIND NO DIAGRAM FOR THIS IF YOU DECIDE TO USE AN OLDER 4.0 WITH A NEWER INTAKE... YOU HAVE AN EXTRA IDLER PULLY AND BECAUSE OF THE TIMING MARKS, WILL NEED TO MAKE YOUR OWN BELT DIAGRAM.

IF YOU WANT TO ADD A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT... TRACE THE BLACK/PINK STRIPE FROM THE ECM... THIS IS A GROUND... YOUR LIGHT NEEDS TO HAVE A SWITCHED 12V SOURCE AND USE THE BLACK/PINKSTRIPE WIRE AS YOUR GROUND... WORKS LIKE A CHARM, TO CHECK CODES... TURN YOUR KEY ON,OFF,ON,OFF,ON AND WATCH YOUR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT A WILL GIVE YOU LONG BLINKS AT FIRST AND THEN SHORT BLINKS

EXAMPLE 2 LONGS AND 4 SHORTS EQUALS CODE 24
1 LONG AND 6 SHORTS EQUALS CODE 16
6 SHORTS EQUALS CODE 6

I WILL POST PICTURES OF EACH INDIVIDUAL COMPONENT AND LOCATION LATER....

IF YOUR REVERSE LIGHTS DON'T WORK !!!!!!!!!

You can run a 12v switched wire to one wire on your reverse light switch on the side of the transmission, take the other wire and splice it into your reverse light wire by the left kick panel

REHOSTAT SWITCH (ROLLY SWITCH BESIDE HEADLIGHT)

If your guages lights don't dim, work, or your inside curtosey lights don't work, you can take this switch apart and clean it very well, and 85% of the time it will work again... saves you from having to source one and spend extra $$$

I will take pictures soon, I promise... Hope this helps people in the future and you will enjoy my build...

I will be picking up my halfcab hardtop and bulkhead divider tomorrow , so once that is on I will surely get some new pictures of that

__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 03-03-2010, 08:45 PM   #2
Bastidjeep
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2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Marion,TX
Posts: 87
Looking forward to pics!
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Unread 03-03-2010, 09:33 PM   #3
clemsonfan16
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: seneca sc
Posts: 288
A fellow South Carolinian! Awesome dont see many on here. Where are you from?
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Unread 03-05-2010, 04:33 PM   #4
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 411
I'm in Moncks Corner about 15 mintues from Charleston, Summerville and Goose Creek

Update, still working on pictures but after trying 3 times, I think I finally got the trick down to doing the rear main seal... anerobic sealant instead of rtv... and putting the pan gasket up before the pan to make sure the back lip goes in just right..... so far no leaks...
__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 03-07-2010, 08:06 PM   #5
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 411
OK, still working on pictures but... I have a few updates.

I put in a Half Cab Hardtop and Bulkhead from a 81 CJ-8 Scrambler today, looks great!!!!

Matches up perfect, only problem I think when we put the bulkhead in, I fried the wiring harness.

So off tomorrow to go to the junkyard and get a new ecm and harness, and then fix a bunch of wiring under the dash before putting everything back on.

Also, I will try very hard to get everyone some pictures tomorrow as well, I appoligize for not doing it yet
__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 03-08-2010, 03:21 AM   #6
dodger889
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: mi
Posts: 4,161
Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans87 View Post
OK, still working on pictures but... I have a few updates.

I put in a Half Cab Hardtop and Bulkhead from a 81 CJ-8 Scrambler today, looks great!!!!

Matches up perfect, only problem I think when we put the bulkhead in, I fried the wiring harness.

So off tomorrow to go to the junkyard and get a new ecm and harness, and then fix a bunch of wiring under the dash before putting everything back on.

Also, I will try very hard to get everyone some pictures tomorrow as well, I appoligize for not doing it yet
Huh? please explain what happen here. You shorted out the wiring harness?
__________________
A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
im just cheap, and cheap makes you creative.

Last edited by dodger889; 03-08-2010 at 07:02 AM..
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Unread 03-08-2010, 06:16 AM   #7
littlejohn411
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Bristol,CT
Posts: 98
Glad you edited that post I was all over the place.
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GOT GUNS?
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Unread 03-08-2010, 08:12 PM   #8
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 411
well, saturday night drove the jeep, no problems... havent had any problems as a matter of fact in about 2 weeks. I woke up sunday morning and removed my roll bar and soft top to put in the bulkhead and halfcab hardtop from a scambler. i then jumped in to drive it and all it would do is crank... i have some relays with what looks like burn marks on each terminal, and it won't start at all... i have tested the fuel pump by jumping it... and it works but the relay will not give power to the fuel pump while in normal operation. also, when i turn the key to the on position, the gauge lights turn on but only when the relays kick maybe a second or two, and there dim.... sooooooooooooooooo im lost i have checked connections under the dash, and under the hood and can't find anything out of the normal other than the relays and that it won't start and the gauges light up when i turn the key on.... can someone please help
__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 03-08-2010, 09:35 PM   #9
clemsonfan16
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: seneca sc
Posts: 288
Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans87 View Post
I'm in Moncks Corner about 15 mintues from Charleston, Summerville and Goose Creek

Update, still working on pictures but after trying 3 times, I think I finally got the trick down to doing the rear main seal... anerobic sealant instead of rtv... and putting the pan gasket up before the pan to make sure the back lip goes in just right..... so far no leaks...
Get the Hell out of here. My roomate is from Monks Corner. and I know a good amount of people from there. What are the chances?
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Unread 03-09-2010, 08:36 AM   #10
Bastidjeep
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2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Marion,TX
Posts: 87
cevans87, I would check your grounds. It sounds like there is either a missing ground or a very poor connection on one somewhere. Is the ground strap on the back of the head grounded to the firewall? Electricity does some really strange stuff when you have insufficient or poor grounds. I saw a guy forget to put on a ground on a diesel engine swap once. The engine was cranking very slow and smoke was coming from the headlight switch.......Lol!
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Unread 03-09-2010, 12:20 PM   #11
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 411
well im in the process of swaping the harness and ecm, and taking pictures for bastidjeep... and a few others.... yup small world... yall should come wheel sometime, even though im only down here because of the marine corps, im originally from lynchburg, virginia
__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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4.0 swap , build , fuel injection , halfcab , wiring

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