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Unread 12-12-2013, 08:01 PM   #31
superj
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The one wrapped in tape is the CTO valve

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Unread 12-12-2013, 08:33 PM   #32
Kingston
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The linkage looks like a normal system BUT it had 2 half moon lookin gear componets in the back, the choke linkage goes on the side facing the motor.....if some one could show some pix of the possiblities then i could say yes or no.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 08:54 PM   #33
Kingston
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Ok on the cto, is there a way to address this area without duck tape? This aint my mud buggy
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Unread 12-13-2013, 03:27 AM   #34
roadyrob
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the red arrow id pointing to where the PCV should go, not to the air cleaner. that should take care of the oil leaking out of the valve cover by the filter.
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Unread 12-13-2013, 04:47 AM   #35
superj
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for now, you can put little caps on the cto nipples but they run to different vacuum systems and canisters.
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Unread 12-13-2013, 08:08 AM   #36
Kingston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadyrob View Post
the red arrow id pointing to where the PCV should go, not to the air cleaner. that should take care of the oil leaking out of the valve cover by the filter.
This would be true but all the original emmisions has been removed, no charcoal can or anything. Thats y the valve on the side of the block is taped up also, the vacuum lines has been caped. Which is great cuz motors ran for years in my dads time without all that extra crap, im just tryin to figure out how to make this one runn correctly without it since it wants to die when i go to slow down or stop, its difficult clutching and feathering the gas n tryin to hold the brake on hills lol
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Unread 12-13-2013, 09:35 AM   #37
roadyrob
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the PCV requires vacuum, your not getting it with it hooked to the air cleaner. as to removing the emissions junk mine has been long gone but I still run a PCV line, the days of running a motor with just a line to the outside ended in the 60's, I've had them and when a motor got old they dripped oil or leaked it like yours is doing.
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Unread 12-13-2013, 10:01 AM   #38
Kingston
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Ok, all the pcv ive delt with went to the filter, even the original carb on this motor according to haynes book went to filter. But chevy big blocks are different than jeep, so what your telling me is unhook the line from the white part on the filter and put it at the bottom of the carb were the bolt plugs it and this will stop the oil pushing it way out the breather out the back of the valve cover
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Unread 12-13-2013, 11:08 AM   #39
Kingston
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i hope this would help, also anyone know a easy way to extend the manual choke? since it seems to be stuck open, im thinkin the cable may not be long enough since it was ment for the original carb
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Unread 12-13-2013, 11:56 AM   #40
superj
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you can also just remove the cto and put a screw in plug. i removed mine and just plugged it
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Unread 12-13-2013, 12:09 PM   #41
Kingston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superj View Post
you can also just remove the cto and put a screw in plug. i removed mine and just plugged it
wouldnt remember what size u used and thread type?
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Unread 12-13-2013, 04:03 PM   #42
superj
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Nah, I think I got it out of some of my dad's junk from his plumbing supplies but I am not for sure. I didn't go buy it though
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Unread 12-13-2013, 07:30 PM   #43
Kingston
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Ok thanx
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Unread 12-14-2013, 04:38 PM   #44
Kingston
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So imma try the swap of the lines around and tune the carb up following this http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm
Hopefully it wont be hard to crank and die when i slow down to
Stop
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Unread 12-15-2013, 12:49 PM   #45
Kingston
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Ok so the tune was a epic fail, couldnt get it tuned n at one point couldnt crank it lol
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