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350 swap.. 700r4 or stay with AX-15?
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#1 | |
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Eat, Sleep, Jeep
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350 swap.. 700r4 or stay with AX-15?
I'm coming down the home stretch with my 350 swap, motor 95% done, now I'm focusing on the trans... Right now I have an 88 42, with a 94 AX-15 and a 231-amc.
I was going to stick with the AX-15 for simplicity, thinking it would cost less and be a bit easier. But when adding up the costs, 380 for adapter, 150 for clutch, 120 for flywhee, 50 for a 350 bell housing l etc, It's tipping into the 7-8 hundred dollar range, and frankly is somewhat a a pia. So, reading through all the threads, I'm seriously thinking of didching the AX-15 idea for a TH700r4. But I have a few questions... -Donor vehicles and year? Hard to figure out what I'm looking for in the boneyard -Does it bolt up fairly easily to the stock skid? -Appx cost of additional stuff, like cooler, shifter, lingage etc? -Will the 231-amc bolt up? or do I need another new input shaft? -I assume no computer right? What about kickdown linkage? (Edelbrock 4bbl) Again, I'm looking for simplicity+lower cost, I would really like to get this project done quickly as my ol' 4.2 after 290K is now really dying fast. I don't want to slap in another 6 just to get by, but also I don't have another 4K to just throw at parts, so I need easiest/cheapest route. Thanks!
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#2 |
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Registered User
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I started looking into this too. I googled for it and found some schematic-like things that explain the OD system and some of the things you'll need to make it happen. No computer. Standard kickdown linkage, but the OD is weird. Advanced Adapters makes the piece to mate the 231.
I am running the TH350 which is a 3 speed and for wheeling, it's great. The 65+ mph sucks tho. The 700R4 apparently should come from and early 80's GMC or Chevy 4X4 truck. Basic and should fit. Nothing is going to fit the skid right. Either way, it was just easier to stick with the TH350. For you, my friend....depending on how much $$$ you have to throw at it and how much time and interest you have in research and work involved....might work for you. ***EDIT****http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/trans/yj700r4/ http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/trans/yj700r4p2/
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1993 YJ | 2.5L 4 banger | 3.5" Superlift | 1" BL | 4.88's | 33" BFG's | 2007 Toyota Tundra Crew-max | 4x2 | 5.7L | Truxedo Tonneau | 20"'s | Leather | Fully debadged 1999 XJ | stock | 4.0 |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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More....
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/trans/yj700r4p2/index2.htm http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/trans/yj700r4p2/index3.htm
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1993 YJ | 2.5L 4 banger | 3.5" Superlift | 1" BL | 4.88's | 33" BFG's | 2007 Toyota Tundra Crew-max | 4x2 | 5.7L | Truxedo Tonneau | 20"'s | Leather | Fully debadged 1999 XJ | stock | 4.0 |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Go with the 700R4. Get one from an 87 or 88 to 93 fullsize truck, look for the big "K" on each side of the bellhousing. Avoid the earlier models or ones without the K. The 93+ units are 4L60E's which are computer-controled 700R4s. Get a housing adapter and NP231C from an S10 pickup or Blazer that had a 4.3. You can reuse your current SYE, and the stock skid (just redrill)
I used a B&M cooler with a fan but my trans sees way more abuse than yours probably will. A simple stacked plate cooler might be enough. Do not pass it through the radiator. Shifters - there are a lot of cheap floor shifters out there that will work and I've tried (read: wasted $ on) many of them. Basically if you can't get an Art-Carr/Winter Bros/Cheetah type shifter, just weld an old wrench to the factory shift bracket on the 700R4. No other shifter besides those three gate shifters I mentioned are even worth using. Don't waste your money on anything else. (scout ebay, my two friends who are converting both scored AC shifters cheap). Get the kickdown cable with the trans, Edlebrock sells a bracket to hook it up to the carb. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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what type of motor mounts are you useing.
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Why the jump to an auto?
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Wise men speak because they have something to say;
Fools because they have to say something. Plato |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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i know of a 87 blazer with a 700r4 in it for sale here in roanoke
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1995 YJ Rio Grand - work in progress |
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#8 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Why not? They are vastly superior for wheeling. Two of my die-hard manual trans buddies are both converting right now after driving my rig on one trail last summer. |
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#9 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Well he has a stock wheelbase, so the added lenght could be a problem. He's allready set up for a stick. The tranny he has isn't my top choice, but...just to name a few. And "vastly superior" is kinda an overstatement. I'm perfectly fine with a stick, and I've had both. I think its just a matter of personal preference.
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Wise men speak because they have something to say;
Fools because they have to say something. Plato |
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#10 |
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Jeep parking ONLY
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700r4 out of a late 80's 4x4 suburban would be ok too...had one of those b4 the jeep...ah the memories.
what kind of Torque do you expect from the 8?
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-NorthJeep - >> Just Enough Essential Parts RED Jeep Club member - YJ Club - 258's Unite |
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#11 | ||||
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Web Wheeler
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Like 1-Ton said, one from an 88-93 Chevy... better if from a 4wd as they have the correct output spline count for the 231 mating. You will need an engine to trans adapter (Novak) and a trans to t-case adapter (JB Conversions) and a kickdown cable assembly.
While you're at it, I would recommend changing the t-case shifter to the Novak Shifter Kit Quote:
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"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum" Quote:
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#12 |
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Registered User
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why use the the jeep version 231. if/when you get the 700r tell them to leave the chevy version 231. chances are it could be a 231HD ( like i have ) witch has the 241 size chain and 6 planitarys gears insteed of three. a SYE kit is avable and the best part is all all factory no JB or AA to waste money on.
i would recomend the art-carr shifter, i used a chepo B&M shifter and it works but i had to chop it up to re-move the detent's ( in the shifter ) so it can slam revesre. the art-carr ones there alot easyer to modifie, jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money. |
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#13 |
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BUILT. NOT BOUGHT.
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i may have missed it but i didn't see any mention of chevy axles or a dana 20 swap so the passengers side drop would leave him with only 2wd....
i'm guessing thats why the chevy 231 tcase hasn't been a hot topic in this thread....
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'89 Wrangler, 4.0/AW4, 106" Wheelbase, SOA, custom XJ packs, 2" Body. Front High Pinion Dana 44 w/yukon super-joints, chromo inners and outers, and a Lincoln Locker. Rear Dana 60 w/Yukon 1.5" 35 Spline chomo shafts and detroit locker. 5.38 Yukon Gears. Hydro-Assist, 39.5x18" Boggers on 15x12 RockKrawler's w/ 2.75" of backspacing. Comp cut, tube fenders, custom bumpers and rock sliders, fuel cell, CB, Stewart Warner Gauges, SmittyBilt XRC8 Winch, 140 Amp CS-144 Alternator, Electric Fan, and a cooler of beer. 3897 lbs March 1st, 8pm. WILMINGTON, NC MEET & GREET @ HOOTERS! |
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#14 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money. |
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#15 |
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Eat, Sleep, Jeep
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Thanks guys, still on the fence.
I'm going to go window shopping at the local boneyard. If I can find a 700r drivers side drop 231 I 'll prolly get it, if not, I'll just stick with the current plan and grab a bellhousing from a 350 manual trans and start piecing it together. |
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