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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:15 PM   #1
phil1330
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350 guys or mechanics

I installed the 350 in the jeep a few weeks ago. the old carb was no good so i bought a 670 truck advenger.It runs fine for about thirty minutes or so then at a stop light or stop sign the thing wants to cut off. Then it wants to spit and sputter on take off. The jeep starts up perfectly every time after sitting for many hrs or days. Then after these symptoms start surfaceing the truck doesnt want to start up very easily. I'm stumped and really dont want to take it the shop.

Things ive done already...checked timing, new cap and rotor. and fuel delivery is present.

I'm thinking and I'm no mechanic that maybe its the coil or control module or possibly the vacuum advance. But there again I don't really know.

Any help would be great

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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:21 PM   #2
Why J?
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Have you checked the timing with vac advance disconnected and blocked off at the carb?

You need to know what your timing advance is at idle.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:29 PM   #3
phil1330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
Have you checked the timing with vac advance disconnected and blocked off at the carb?

You need to know what your timing advance is at idle.
I checked it with the vac advanced disconnected but i did not block the carb off. I will give that a try. The first time i checked the timing my gun was dailed in at zero and no mark on balancer showed up in the light. So turned the gun up to 60 degrees and finally the mark showed up.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:38 PM   #4
ashland82391
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O2 sensor
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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:40 PM   #5
phil1330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashland82391 View Post
O2 sensor
straight dual exhaust. and no computer. I dont have 02 sensors.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 11:37 PM   #6
Fattynutzkin
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Check your timing. Another thing to check is to see if the choke plate is fully open when the engine is warm.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 06:31 AM   #7
USMCBuckWild
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Sounds like the choke is engaging. Check the choke plate and if you aren't using the choke, disconnect the linkage so it won't flop down into the engaged position.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 07:01 AM   #8
jsawduste
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Talk about some weird answers.

Has a carb so it doesn't have an O2 sensor, young grasshopper.

If the timing was off why would it run fine for 30 minutes then start to act up ? Even if the timing was to far advance/retarded it would show you well before 30 minutes of run time.

He has a heat issue. Not uncommon with a large heat producer nestled in a small space.

Underhood temps are escalating to a point that after x amount of run time the engine has given off enough heat and that heat has been absorbed by the fuel lines/pump to the point of causing the fuel to boil/vaporize within the fuel line or even the float bowl of the carb itself.

That is called VAPOR LOCK.

To fix the problem......Reroute the fuel line(s). Add heat reflective material to the lines, Install a carb to manifold heat shield add some hood louvers to help remove the excess heat. The OP says nothing about his fuel delivery system so it`s impossible to offer any advice in regards to fuel pump location.

Sheesh, not trying to be mean but darn not very well thought out answers to a simple problem.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 08:09 AM   #9
snail81
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ignition module in the distributor
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Unread 04-21-2013, 08:50 AM   #10
USMCBuckWild
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
Talk about some weird answers.

Has a carb so it doesn't have an O2 sensor, young grasshopper.

If the timing was off why would it run fine for 30 minutes then start to act up ? Even if the timing was to far advance/retarded it would show you well before 30 minutes of run time.

He has a heat issue. Not uncommon with a large heat producer nestled in a small space.

Underhood temps are escalating to a point that after x amount of run time the engine has given off enough heat and that heat has been absorbed by the fuel lines/pump to the point of causing the fuel to boil/vaporize within the fuel line or even the float bowl of the carb itself.

That is called VAPOR LOCK.

To fix the problem......Reroute the fuel line(s). Add heat reflective material to the lines, Install a carb to manifold heat shield add some hood louvers to help remove the excess heat. The OP says nothing about his fuel delivery system so it`s impossible to offer any advice in regards to fuel pump location.

Sheesh, not trying to be mean but darn not very well thought out answers to a simple problem.
I contemplated posting similiar to this as I had similiar issues. Turns out mine was nothing more than the electric choke being weak and flopping into place.

Heat is a pain in the a$$, most of the symptoms fit.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 09:18 AM   #11
Dirttracker18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
Talk about some weird answers.

Has a carb so it doesn't have an O2 sensor, young grasshopper.

If the timing was off why would it run fine for 30 minutes then start to act up ? Even if the timing was to far advance/retarded it would show you well before 30 minutes of run time.

He has a heat issue. Not uncommon with a large heat producer nestled in a small space.

Underhood temps are escalating to a point that after x amount of run time the engine has given off enough heat and that heat has been absorbed by the fuel lines/pump to the point of causing the fuel to boil/vaporize within the fuel line or even the float bowl of the carb itself.

That is called VAPOR LOCK.

To fix the problem......Reroute the fuel line(s). Add heat reflective material to the lines, Install a carb to manifold heat shield add some hood louvers to help remove the excess heat. The OP says nothing about his fuel delivery system so it`s impossible to offer any advice in regards to fuel pump location.

Sheesh, not trying to be mean but darn not very well thought out answers to a simple problem.
Logical conclusion.

Tough to make a good diagnosis with such limited information.

There are a host of issues that could be related. However the heat issue is the most logical and certainly a good starting point.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 09:23 AM   #12
jsawduste
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snail81 View Post
ignition module in the distributor
Another good possibility and Buck`s suggestion is also.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 10:15 AM   #13
youngjeepr
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When it trys to "cut out" is it when your coming to a stop and just starting out? What is your idle set at? Do you have a cam? What choke setup do you have? How are your fuel lines routed?
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Unread 04-21-2013, 10:25 AM   #14
phil1330
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heres the plan. I just bought new coil,control module,fuel line and heat wrap. im going to reroute my fuel lines and wrap em. then im going to check timing again. will post results in 2 hrs
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Unread 04-21-2013, 10:27 AM   #15
phil1330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngjeepr View Post
When it trys to "cut out" is it when your coming to a stop and just starting out? What is your idle set at? Do you have a cam? What choke setup do you have? How are your fuel lines routed?
cuts out on both. idel is as low as can go. small cam dk spec. fuel lines are in factory location until motor then goes under the oil pan to mech fuel pump. elec choke not hooked up.
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