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Old 09-21-2009, 06:47 PM   #16
yjjason
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thanks Uberjeep,for the info. will this work for an E-brake or will it bleed off after a few hours?

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Old 09-21-2009, 07:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by yjjason View Post
thanks Uberjeep,for the info. will this work for an E-brake or will it bleed off after a few hours?
Hmm, I don't know if I would trust it as brake in situations where safety is a concern. Firstly I am assuming you mean as a parking brake, not an e-brake due to the fact that if you have a failure of a brake line/master cylinder you will subsequently have a failure of this line lock, so in an emergency it has no benefit over your regular brakes. An e-brake must be a separate brake system (usually mechanical) to qualify as such for keeping it road legal. However as a parking brake, it is not a mechanical lock on the brakes, and as such can only be as good as the seals/valves inside and therefore prone to wear. It may work 100 times in a row without fail, but that 101st time.... That being said, mine doesn't bleed down very quickly at all, and would prolly hold for quite a while, but I am not relying on it as a parking brake on anything other than flat parking where I *won't* be climbing under the vehicle for repairs...
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Originally Posted by 2003Rubi View Post
Make sure you get a sticker that says "Jeep" in Japanese lettering, that mod is good for about 20-25 hp right there.
My Jeep has only ever killed three things. A deer, a dog, and my wallet.
*retired* Low Output Jeep Club # 135
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:14 PM   #18
1bad92yj
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Could the hill holder be plumbed in to work on the jeep like it does on a subaru, off of the clutch?
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Old 09-21-2009, 11:39 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 1bad92yj View Post
Could the hill holder be plumbed in to work on the jeep like it does on a subaru, off of the clutch?
Hmmm, it is possible, but because the subuaru clutch is cable actuated and the jeep is a hydraulic clutch, you would have to run the cable back to your clutch pedal and make sure it is fine tuned perfectly. That would be a ton of trouble rather than buying an electric solenoid type line lock and hooking up an electric switch. I wanted manual control so I can engage and release when I want rather than an automatic control that I can leave engaged with the clutch out.
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Originally Posted by 2003Rubi View Post
Make sure you get a sticker that says "Jeep" in Japanese lettering, that mod is good for about 20-25 hp right there.
My Jeep has only ever killed three things. A deer, a dog, and my wallet.
*retired* Low Output Jeep Club # 135
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:52 AM   #20
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this is a sweet mod,,,just to make sure i got it,,once you start to roll/pre-load the jeep,,you throw the valve releasing the front brakes?...now i know what im looking for...

you also mentioned:

This subaru valve would work the same way, only you won't have to run fluid through the firewall like I did.

I'll be looking for them myself though!



explain what to look for?...
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Last edited by xjandyj; 09-22-2009 at 11:39 AM..
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:13 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by xjandyj View Post
this is a sweet mod,,,just to make sure i got it,,once you start to roll/pre-load the jeep,,you throw the valve releasing the front brakes?...now i know what im looking for...

you also mentioned:

This subaru valve would work the same way, only you won't have to run fluid through the firewall like I did.

I'll be looking for them myself though!



explain what to look for?...
Well essentially when you apply the brakes, all four tires get brake pressure. When you allpy the brakes, engage the line lock, then release the brakes, the rear brakes return to no pressure while the front brakes maintain however much pressure you loaded them with. You can then get your throttle foot and your clutch foot working to feather off the brakes through the line lock without roll back.

It would work exactly like what you have, but with a pull cable rather than two hard lines.

As for what to look for, I found mine on an 82 Subaru GL, located just under the brake master cylinder. Follow the lines from the master if you are not sure, if they go to a proportioning valve then off to the brakes, it was not equipped with one. If it goes to a proportioning valve, then to the device I have pictured in my first post in this thread, then off to one front line, one rear line - it's a hill holder. If it is early 80's like mine, there will also be an obvious cable running off to the clutch fork, so if the one you are looking at has one, get a buddy to push the clutch pedal and see if it also engages/disengages the hill holder.

If I end up @ the P'n'P this weekend I will see if I can snap a few pics of hill holders still in Subarus and post them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2003Rubi View Post
Make sure you get a sticker that says "Jeep" in Japanese lettering, that mod is good for about 20-25 hp right there.
My Jeep has only ever killed three things. A deer, a dog, and my wallet.
*retired* Low Output Jeep Club # 135
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:50 PM   #22
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thanks..................
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:12 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Uberjeep View Post
There is a sweet spot to mount a ton of switches that also has a lot of back end room for wires if you are like me and don't have any factory stuff already there. I mounted all of my numerous switches beside the steering column on the passenger side. There was a crappy plastic cover over what looked like provision for some factory accessory switches (AC or foglights or something mine didn't come with) so I cut all of it out, fabbed a sheetmetal plate to fit, punched some holes for switches, and sat back and smiled. One fused line coming up, diodes to stop back feeding from each switch, and a lot less wires to run back and forth that way. All of my switches run low current to relays under the hood in my new PDC, so no need for anything other that a 10a fuse to run them all.
Like so....


Let you in on a secret, if you want to run 8 switch lines to your PDC, and they are all low current lines, go to a computer shop (or a dollar store) and get a length of CAT5e network cable. It is about 1/4" diameter and has 8 color coded wires inside (24AWG good for about .5A per wire, standard bosch relays are under .2A from what I could find) for about 20 cents a foot. The stranded type is much better as it is more flexable and should be less prone to vibration failure, FWIW


I am one of those "work smarter, not harder" guys.....
That will work sweet for the low voltage signal wires to a relay so you don't have to run all of the juice through your switchs on the dash.
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:07 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Uberjeep View Post
Is it necessary to have the tee or could it be done this way? If the proportioning valve only splits between front and rear then this should work.
without-tee.jpg 

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Old 03-01-2011, 03:50 PM   #25
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My great grandfather Raymond G. Trevorrow and his friend Harold Fisher invented the "Hill Hold" and later sold it to Studebaker. Pretty cool stuff you learn when you say "hmm good idea" in front of your grandmother.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:21 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by PolloLoco View Post
Is it necessary to have the tee or could it be done this way? If the proportioning valve only splits between front and rear then this should work.
That I am not sure of. Not having taken apart the proportioning valve I don't know if you would get excessive pressure on the o-rings that separate everything or if it would just bypass the pressure to the other line. I would err on the side of caution and t them so that you are not forcing extra pressure somewhere it was never inteded from the factory. Think of it like two garden hoses coming off one spigot. Plug one hose, the other one increases in flow/pressure. I would assume that the same would happen inside the proportioning valve, and I am not sure if the o-rings would hold properly. Five minutes with a flaring tool, and 50 cents worth of extra fittings and I feel safe with the T. YMMV.
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Originally Posted by 2003Rubi View Post
Make sure you get a sticker that says "Jeep" in Japanese lettering, that mod is good for about 20-25 hp right there.
My Jeep has only ever killed three things. A deer, a dog, and my wallet.
*retired* Low Output Jeep Club # 135
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:23 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by RobertJ View Post
My great grandfather Raymond G. Trevorrow and his friend Harold Fisher invented the "Hill Hold" and later sold it to Studebaker. Pretty cool stuff you learn when you say "hmm good idea" in front of your grandmother.
That's awesome! It was a pretty cool thing to have in my first car because I was new to standard transmissions. I have always loved that simple yet effective technology.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2003Rubi View Post
Make sure you get a sticker that says "Jeep" in Japanese lettering, that mod is good for about 20-25 hp right there.
My Jeep has only ever killed three things. A deer, a dog, and my wallet.
*retired* Low Output Jeep Club # 135
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:06 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Uberjeep View Post
That's awesome! It was a pretty cool thing to have in my first car because I was new to standard transmissions. I have always loved that simple yet effective technology.
Yeah I thought so too. We have a few inventors in the family. I may put one on my rig just because.
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:12 AM   #29
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Interested in how you ran the wiring for the new fuse box. Did you just attach its lead to the same location as the stock one? Is the power keyed or always hot?
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:49 AM   #30
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So your 4.6l engine can burn off tires better than a 1.6 or 1.8 liter honda and your calling them names? I lol'd. Your both in the same category to me

Sorry, what I really wanted to say is the line lock mod for $25 is pretty dang sweet. good job
try getting your 2.5 to roast 33s and get sideways on dry pavement. ricers seem to oooo and ahhh at it.

then one day some guy in a nissan was like, "dude is that the two five? how the hell did you get it to spin those 33s like that dude?"

i take it he either owns a jeep or used to own one.
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