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Unread 09-22-2010, 11:52 AM   #1
Reverb
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258 engine oil capacity

Whats the capacity of the 258 in quarts? And is it the same as the 232?

Thanks

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Unread 09-22-2010, 11:57 AM   #2
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4.2 and the 4.0 take 6 quarts
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Unread 09-22-2010, 11:59 AM   #3
remmons
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X2. quarts with filter.
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Unread 09-22-2010, 12:01 PM   #4
Reverb
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trying to compare 258 and 232 not 242.

Thanks
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Unread 09-22-2010, 12:08 PM   #5
remmons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverb View Post
trying to compare 258 and 232 not 242.

Thanks
Uh-huh. Same capacity. Just different displacements. Technically, they both hold five quarts plus 1 quart for filter. You will find the specs on page 1-A 23 in this link.
258_232 AMC Engines
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Unread 09-22-2010, 12:32 PM   #6
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Cool - thanks to everyone who replied
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Unread 09-22-2010, 12:36 PM   #7
mcmud
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The 232-258 pan capacity is four qts. and the filter one qt. Total of five quarts.

The referenced chart is clear on the capacity...that reference to adding a quart is after the oil filter change.
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Unread 09-22-2010, 02:38 PM   #8
remmons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmud View Post
The 232-258 pan capacity is four qts. and the filter one qt. Total of five quarts.

The referenced chart is clear on the capacity...that reference to adding a quart is after the oil filter change.

I decided to do a little research into this matter. Guess what I found over on the CJ forums? Here is a thread discussing this topic.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/oi...73/index5.html

I would say this to be safe. Start with five quarts of oil after your oil change. Run the engine for about a minute to check for leaks and to let the oil circulate through the engine and the filter. Shut if off, wait a minute for the oil to drain from the Cyl. head, then recheck your oil level. Chances are, you may need a sixth quart.
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Last edited by remmons; 09-22-2010 at 04:43 PM.. Reason: Noticed typing issues.
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Unread 09-22-2010, 03:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remmons View Post
I decided to do a little research into this matter. Guess what Ifound over on the CJ forums? Here is a thread discussing this topic.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/oi...73/index5.html

I would say this to be safe. Start with five quarts of oil after your oil change. Run the engine for about a minute to check for leaks and to let the oil circulate through the engine and the filter. Shut if off, wait a minute for the oil to drain from the Cyl. head, then recheck your oil level. Chances are, you may need a sixth quart.
Oddly enough...I do just that...and usually end up good with just 5 quarts.
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Unread 09-22-2010, 05:54 PM   #10
mcmud
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Yeah ..I'm very familiar with that thread and others like it. It always seems that the consensus is more or less even.
The one mentioned list 11 responders who use 6qts., 4 or 5 of them fessed-up to the oil level being above the dipstick full mark. Then there are ten who use 5qts. Oh and one said that 7qts was needed.

Then one of them, a most respected/very active member, later reported the complications he had with oil leaks when he tried the 6qt. level. He went back to 5.

The amount is an age old question and will not be settled today nor tomorrow. One manual says this and one says that.

For example the Chilton list 5qts with the filter change while the Haynes list 6qts. The 84-86 MR252 states that 6qts are necessary "with or without a filter change" go figure...those were the most perilous and the waining years of the AMC era, the developers of the 232-258. There are many discrepancies in that manual, several reprints from previous manuals, most of them wrong.

The most thorough TSM manual that one can find covering the 4.2 standardized edition is the '81TSM. That was the first year after the '78-'79-'80 I6 changes and that was the build print that followed at least till '86. It list 4 in the pan and one in the filter a total of five. Any 4.2 user should have that manual not only for this topic but for total driveline management.

I went to the "Mopar Jeep Engines", a DaimlerChrysler publication, the finest performance engine manual that there is, IMHO. It refers back to and reprints the '81TSM..4+1 with filter change. It also refers to the '90 TSM, so I assume that there were some differences however I see no listing for the oil capacity in the reprint.

Having several jeeps with the 4.2(all CJ's) I would never skimp out on oil protection. All are to the full mark, all of them have 5qts of oil and none of them drip or rattle.

For the safest protection I always prefill the oil filter prior to it's install, it keeps that dry-start rattle away.
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Unread 09-23-2010, 10:15 AM   #11
remmons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmud View Post
Yeah ..I'm very familiar with that thread and others like it. It always seems that the consensus is more or less even.
The one mentioned list 11 responders who use 6qts., 4 or 5 of them fessed-up to the oil level being above the dipstick full mark. Then there are ten who use 5qts. Oh and one said that 7qts was needed.

Then one of them, a most respected/very active member, later reported the complications he had with oil leaks when he tried the 6qt. level. He went back to 5.

The amount is an age old question and will not be settled today nor tomorrow. One manual says this and one says that.

For example the Chilton list 5qts with the filter change while the Haynes list 6qts. The 84-86 MR252 states that 6qts are necessary "with or without a filter change" go figure...those were the most perilous and the waining years of the AMC era, the developers of the 232-258. There are many discrepancies in that manual, several reprints from previous manuals, most of them wrong.

The most thorough TSM manual that one can find covering the 4.2 standardized edition is the '81TSM. That was the first year after the '78-'79-'80 I6 changes and that was the build print that followed at least till '86. It list 4 in the pan and one in the filter a total of five. Any 4.2 user should have that manual not only for this topic but for total driveline management.

I went to the "Mopar Jeep Engines", a DaimlerChrysler publication, the finest performance engine manual that there is, IMHO. It refers back to and reprints the '81TSM..4+1 with filter change. It also refers to the '90 TSM, so I assume that there were some differences however I see no listing for the oil capacity in the reprint.

Having several jeeps with the 4.2(all CJ's) I would never skimp out on oil protection. All are to the full mark, all of them have 5qts of oil and none of them drip or rattle.

For the safest protection I always prefill the oil filter prior to it's install, it keeps that dry-start rattle away.

Thank you for telling us about the "Mopar Jeep Engines", a DaimlerChrysler publication. I will have to find one and get it ordered in. If there is anything I dislike, that is misinformation. I know and realize that a publication states that they are not responsible for errors or misprints, but when it comes to getting it right the first time, I want to be sure that the information is right.
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Unread 09-24-2010, 08:37 AM   #12
mcmud
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That manual will be an asset.
It covers in great detail the OEM maintenance and rebuild, performance mods, engine blueprinting and racing secrets, Lol.
Covering the 2.46L Hurricane, 2.5L Power Tech, the 4.2(258), 4.0L PowerTech, the 4.7 PowerTech V8 and the 360ci V8.
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Unread 10-23-2010, 09:42 AM   #13
KJNewbs
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Been looking for some info on the 258 and found this thread. The oil info was great, thanks! Can anyone shed some light on what the normal opperating temperature of the 258 should be? I need to determine if my gauge is shot or if my engine is running hot. I can get a Rad top with built in Therm, but need something to compare the numbers to. I'm hoping that there is a chart showing the engine temps, with relation back to the gauge. If I had that, along with the key 'proper running temps' I could diagnose my situation.

Can anyone help? Cheers!
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Unread 10-23-2010, 09:04 PM   #14
yellow2kgt
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My 90YJ with the 258 has always ran between 200-210. If I am climbing a steep grade for a long time it will creep up a few degrees more but it is almost always rock solid between 200-210 (this is with the factory gauge.) It has been that way for the past 6 years even after replacing a blown water pump and leaky rad with new parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KJNewbs View Post
Been looking for some info on the 258 and found this thread. The oil info was great, thanks! Can anyone shed some light on what the normal opperating temperature of the 258 should be? I need to determine if my gauge is shot or if my engine is running hot. I can get a Rad top with built in Therm, but need something to compare the numbers to. I'm hoping that there is a chart showing the engine temps, with relation back to the gauge. If I had that, along with the key 'proper running temps' I could diagnose my situation.

Can anyone help? Cheers!
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