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Unread 03-10-2013, 01:34 PM   #16
Sgtrhoads
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Watertown, New York
Posts: 25
Are the mounts different from the 2.5L and 4.0L. Talking about the frame mounts, not the mounts on the engine.

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Unread 03-10-2013, 04:18 PM   #17
Wild Hare
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Gillette Wyoming, wyoming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgtrhoads View Post
Are the mounts different from the 2.5L and 4.0L. Talking about the frame mounts, not the mounts on the engine.
they are in a different location. they have to be moved forward
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Unread 03-10-2013, 08:45 PM   #18
Sgtrhoads
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Thanks for the info. I was slowly figuring out that we were going to have to move them. I cut them off about 2 hours ago. I got our plan of another thread someone had posted looking for a diagram or print. We are going to slip the engine in the bay, attached transmission and t-case and install the d/s and cross member. Once those items are in place, we will put the frame side of the mounts into the block mounts and lower into place. Verify that the drive train is in the correct location and tack the mounts in place. Pull everything back out and have a friend weld it all in place. Hopefully it works. I am still going to search for some more information and possible alternative methods. Also posted some pics of the engine once we got her finished and my 2.5L before we got it ripped out.
dsc00810.jpg   dsc00812.jpg   dsc00815.jpg   dsc00819.jpg  
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Unread 03-10-2013, 08:55 PM   #19
OKwranglerYJ
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Carnegie, Ok
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I just got done doing the 4.0 swap in my 95. I just added the 2 injector wires and I didn't have to cut any wires in my swap. I just took apart the harness, de-pinned the sensor wires and moved them where I needed then. It turned or great. If you have any questions just let me know.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 09:44 AM   #20
psyco31
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make sure you use the transfer case from the donor Tranny should be the NP231.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 09:47 AM   #21
psyco31
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if you end up changin g wireing harnesses then ensure you get the wiring diagrams for the connector that plugs into the wall (cant remember the name) for each vehciel then you can slowly trouble shoot it. I did this on my swap and it wasn't to hard. also the T-Case shift lever may be different between the two since the tranny from AX-15 is longer than the AX-5.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 07:42 PM   #22
Sgtrhoads
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Progress

So after most of a Saturday spent trying to place the new engine in the bay and grinding the old engine pylons we finally realized that if we ground them down enough to fit, there would not be much strength left. We came up with a design to fab new engine pylons for the mounts to sit on. You can see them in the pictures. They are fabricated out of 2.5 IN angle iron. We welded them together with an old stick buzz box, which is all we have. They look great. Debating running a couple 5/8 IN bolts laterally through the mount and frame just for some added security. Working on replacing all the brake lines while I got the engine out. Also working on adding a posi-lock, but I think I ordered the wrong one. I have a 3" suspension lift and I ordered the kit for a 3-6 IN lift, but I think it was meant for a body lift. I seams like the cable is to long. Going to work on routing that tomorrow. I only have a couple more days to work on it before I leave, but I have some friends that have been working on it with me that are going to finish it after I go. Will put more pictures up as soon as we get her in place.
dsc00828.jpg   dsc00835.jpg   dsc00866.jpg   dsc00884.jpg   dsc00889.jpg  

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Unread 03-18-2013, 07:49 PM   #23
Wild Hare
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here is a picture of my 2.5 mounts cut off pretty clean to the frame and moved forward and welded for the 4.0
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Unread 03-18-2013, 08:10 PM   #24
Sgtrhoads
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyco31 View Post
if you end up changin g wireing harnesses then ensure you get the wiring diagrams for the connector that plugs into the wall (cant remember the name) for each vehciel then you can slowly trouble shoot it. I did this on my swap and it wasn't to hard. also the T-Case shift lever may be different between the two since the tranny from AX-15 is longer than the AX-5.
I did end up changing the harness. When I removed the donor, I cut it back by the fuel tank so it would be easy to splice in. As for the T-Case, that would be true if I had a 5-speed. Unfortunately I have an automatic, so the shift arm is the same since they are both 32RHs. The one I had on my 4cyl was newly rebuilt, so I transferred it over. Got two extras for sale if anyone needs an new/extra NP 231.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 08:13 PM   #25
Sgtrhoads
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Hare View Post


here is a picture of my 2.5 mounts cut off pretty clean to the frame and moved forward and welded for the 4.0
I did have them set in there like that but the motor was sitting way to high and the fan (cause I haven't gotten an electric yet) would have destroyed the radiator. thanks for the pic though, i'll keep it for future reference.
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Unread 03-28-2013, 09:41 AM   #26
marcsally
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New to the forum, but long time Jeep owner. Questions about the 2.5 - 4.0 wiring swap. My 2.5 has a separate pin from the ecu to the injectors. I see that some guys are just adding two plugs for the extra injectors. Which wires are you adding to? Also, same ecu or do I need one from a 4.0? I see I have to change my frame mounts also. If I just cut and re-weld, will my engine set too high for the stock fan?
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Unread 03-28-2013, 10:46 AM   #27
Sgtrhoads
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Mine did, that's why we ended up fabricating new ones. It has worked out for other people or so I have heard
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Unread 03-28-2013, 11:28 AM   #28
Que89YJ
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yes you need the new ecu. you add 2 wires to the ecu plug for the injectors. the fan should be ok.
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Unread 03-28-2013, 11:34 AM   #29
marcsally
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Great ! Just what I was looking for. Thanks a bunch..
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Unread 04-06-2013, 07:08 PM   #30
imstillatwork
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I'm finishing up refreshing a 4.0 in the garage and gathering everything else I need for swapping into my 93.
Normally I wait until I get to a point and figure it out, but when it comes time to perform the actual swap I can not afford a lot of downtime, and need to be prepared.

When adding the 2 injector wires, how exactly will they be integrated into the ecu connector? Can I solder in plain length of wire, or do I need wires pulled from another jeep in order to work?
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