2.5 valve cover gasket replacement - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 5 Old 06-01-2004, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
zpmada
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2.5 valve cover gasket replacement

Hey
I'm going to replace my valve cover gasket on my 1990 wrangler 2.5. I got the gasket, but do I need any sealant? Do I have to use a gasket scraper to get the old gasket off the valve cover? or could I use a box cutter or flat screw driver? Any pointers would be appreciated before I start the job.

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post #2 of 5 Old 06-01-2004, 05:41 PM
Silver yj
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I use alittle sealant to get it to hold to the cover,a screw driver will be fine to scrape the old gasket off.I would change the oil after you do the gasket just incase some of the old gasket went into the head and threw the oil galley's to the pan.
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post #3 of 5 Old 06-01-2004, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
zpmada
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Do I have to use a torque wrench and torque it to 44lbs like it says? I have a torque wrench but no idea how to use it. here are some pictures:

the bottom:
http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4168185894

the top handle with the numbers:
http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4168185903

my main question is how do i work the bottom, looks like both ends are "male" what do I plug them into?

if you look closely it also looks like the wrench is off by 10lbs. how do I fix that or is it normal?
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post #4 of 5 Old 06-01-2004, 06:41 PM
Silver yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zpmada
Do I have to use a torque wrench and torque it to 44lbs like it says? I have a torque wrench but no idea how to use it. here are some pictures:

the bottom:
http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4168185894

the top handle with the numbers:
http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4168185903

my main question is how do i work the bottom, looks like both ends are "male" what do I plug them into?

if you look closely it also looks like the wrench is off by 10lbs. how do I fix that or is it normal?
I don't use a torque wrench but if you do the 44lbs is prob Inch pounds,If you use 44ft lbs you will most likely snap the bolts off,Just use a normal rachet and slightly snug the bolts down all the way around the pan and the go back over them for the last time so that the gasket ( if cork ) starts to slightly buldge out.
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post #5 of 5 Old 06-01-2004, 07:18 PM
sentinal02
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that's a beam style torque wrench. when the bolt or nut you're tightening stops spinning and begines to torque the needle that's free floating over the numbers will begin to deflect. when it deflects to the point it's over the torque reading you want stop turning the bolt. as for being 10 lbs off, that's not normal. there may be an adjustment on the guage to allow you to zero the needle but there might not be. if not, just go 10 lbs further then the suggested torque settings. like Silver said, valve cover bolts are rated for inch pounds. make sure that wrench is reading inch pounds before using it. or just do it like changing an oil filter. finger tight then another 1/2 turn. if you notice oil still leaking, go another 1/2-3/4 turns but don't go too far.

while you have the cover off, hit it with a degreaser inside and out and really clean it up good. check for any cracks, especially along and near the ears where the bolts tighten down on the cover. be sure to clean out the two vent ports on top really good so you don't end up with oil in your air filter later on.

RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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