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2.5 rear main seal replacement and throw out bearing help
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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2.5 rear main seal replacement and throw out bearing help
I'm in the middle of replacing the clutch in my YJ, and while in there I'm replacing the rear main seal. I've looked for a step by step DIY article, but only found articles for the 4.0 and I have the 2.5 I-4. I understand what I ned to do, I'm just looking for some guidance on if any sealant is needed, where to put it, etc.
As for the throwout bearing, I have never replaced one before and once again understand how it all works, just looking for guidance on how to remove it, how the assembly goes together, and if I need to lube anything before putting it back on. I have the Haynes manual and it's vague at best on a lot of these items. I would just like to do it all right the first time. Once again I've searched on this subject as well and couldn't find anything to answer my questions. Thanks
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97 TJ 4.0 Automatic |
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#2 |
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Bueller, Bueller. Anyone have any ideas?
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97 TJ 4.0 Automatic |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I am bumping this...the mainseal is one piece and you just remove it and install the new one. As to the bearing i haven't a clue. Sorry i couldn't help more
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#4 |
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Registered User
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I replaced the main seal on my 90' 2.5 when I replaced the clutch. All you need to do is remove the flywheel bolts with an impact gun. The 2.5 seal is a circular ring, not at all like the 4.0 seal. Gently pry the old seal out with a screwdriver (careful not to scratch the crank). Note which way it was installed. When the old seal is out, clean the seat to remove any debris or sludge. Rub a little clean oil on the new seal to help with insertion and tap it into place. I used the end of a small wooden hammer handle to gently tap and make sure the seal is fully seated. Re-install the flywheel and tighten per specs.
When you install the new pilot bearing in the flywheel make sure to grease it well. I'm not trying to be patronizing, I didn't grease one once and had to replace it shortly after installation. Another note. While you have it all apart take a look at your input and output shaft seals on your transmission as well. These are also easy to replace (they go in just like the rear main seal) and are frequently the cause of leaks. |
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#5 |
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THanks for the reply. The input & output shaft on the transmission are nice and dry. I just removed the rear main seal and I'm getting ready to re-install it.
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97 TJ 4.0 Automatic |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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In case anyone does either of these in the future and does a search; to replace the rear main on my 2.5 I found it was easiest to remove the rear main cap, pull the rear main seal out. Then re-install the main cap & install the seal.
I would have had the dang Jeep back on the road yesterday, but I found my spring clip for holding the clutch release arm on the bal was broken. Of course none of the auto parts places have them in stock nor did the dealer. So it will be another week before I get it all back together.
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97 TJ 4.0 Automatic |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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there any pictures of this, or a writeup someplace? I am about to do my clutch and I am thinking that I should tackle the seal while I am in there....
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#8 |
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I'll post a write up of this sunday i'm doing the rear main, front trans seal as well as the rear trans seal i replaced the Transfercase seal when i did the SYE in Nov. I'll also post pictures
All the work will take place on the 31st |
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#9 |
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Some rear main oil seal failures may be caused by abrasion from dirt or contamination, which can collect on the seal. Vehicles operated in dirty or dusty conditions are most susceptible to this type of failure. A rubber plug is now being used in production to eliminate an entry point for contamination. The plug is now installed in a one inch hole in the cylinder block, directly above the starter mounting location (see illustration). The plug, P/N 53020465, is available through MOPAR and should be installed any time rear main seal service is performed. This can significantly extend rear main seal life for vehicles operated in these conditions.
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#10 | |
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Quote:
Any chance you can scan/post the illustration? |
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#11 |
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#12 | |
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Quote:
I was in there a few weeks ago and couldn't seem to find where it went...
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~ 98 TJ 2.5 cly, 4.11's, Iron Rock 4.5" lift, BFG KM 33x10.50's |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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I know this was a couple years ago, but did anyone ever find a good step by step illustration? I'd rather get this thread going again than starting a whole new one.
I've searched and haven't found a good description of the process. |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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Just another attempt to get this thread going again. If someone can lead me to a step by step or pic by pic tutorial of replacing the RMS on a 2.5L that would be great.
Thanks! |
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