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Unread 02-20-2009, 10:56 AM   #1
gabulldogs
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1974 CJ2A 
 
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2.5 exhaust manifold bolt size...

whats size bolt does a 93 2.5 ex. manifold take? i guess the last owner didnt feel like putting the far rear one in.

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Unread 02-20-2009, 11:45 AM   #2
df19087
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Dorman "Help" part number is 03408 can be had at napa or advance auto
it has a couple of bolts and studs

Last edited by df19087; 02-20-2009 at 11:45 AM.. Reason: Add Info
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Unread 02-20-2009, 11:47 AM   #3
firefighter315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabulldogs View Post
whats size bolt does a 93 2.5 ex. manifold take? i guess the last owner didnt feel like putting the far rear one in.
The "far rear" one should actually be a stud if it's the one closest to the firewall. If you don't see anything, it probably because it's broken off inside the block. The stud should be 3/8-16 on the block side and 3/8-24 on the nut side. Be sure to follow the tightening sequence when you re-install your manifold....

Here is my thread on that ordeal....Search this topic, there is a ton of info floating around here on this common problem....

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...=580709&page=2
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Unread 02-20-2009, 01:06 PM   #4
gabulldogs
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thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Unread 02-20-2009, 05:31 PM   #5
tlendt
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Did he forget to install it or did it break off? Both of my TJ's suffered from this. I fixed one "in chassis" and pulled the head for the other. If you do it in chassis you'll need a transfer punch, a small right angle drill with a short 5/16 bit, and taper, plug, and bottoming taps in 3/8-16 NC. Wisdom suggests a grade 5 bolt or stud, instead of 8, as they seem to bend and stretch as opposed to breaking.
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Unread 02-20-2009, 09:36 PM   #6
firefighter315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlendt View Post
Did he forget to install it or did it break off? Both of my TJ's suffered from this. I fixed one "in chassis" and pulled the head for the other. If you do it in chassis you'll need a transfer punch, a small right angle drill with a short 5/16 bit, and taper, plug, and bottoming taps in 3/8-16 NC. Wisdom suggests a grade 5 bolt or stud, instead of 8, as they seem to bend and stretch as opposed to breaking.
Glad to hear it's not just a YJ issue....
I actually did mine using a spring loaded center punch, Craftsman cordless drill with a "hard as hell" bit (can't remember off the top of my head which type I used...it's late), Craftsman extractor (the tapered style), T-handle, small hammer used to gently help seat the extractor, and 18.7 gallons of PB... I also removed mine with the head on. If something was in my way, I removed it.....It is a little tight back there against the fire wall and I was doing it on a SOA rig on 35s....pretty much crawled into the engine bay for the afternoon. DEFINITELY TAKE YOUR TIME AND GO EASY WORKING AROUND THE CAST BLOCK. WOULD BE VERY EASY TO GET INTO IT IF THAT DRILL BIT WERE TO WALK ON YOU AT ALL....
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