2.5 camshaft and bearings possible w/o removing motor? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-27-2012, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
Kevinyj95
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2.5 camshaft and bearings possible w/o removing motor?

1995 2.5 camshaft and bearings possible w/o removeing motor? I dont have anything to remove the motor with. Soooooo.................. Possible?

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post #2 of 14 Old 07-27-2012, 07:46 PM
Old4X
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You should be able to do the cam and bearings with the engine installed. You will need to take the grill and radiator off to allow enough room for the cam bearing removal tool.

Have you plastigauged the bearings to see exactly what you have? Is the crank badly scored?

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #3 of 14 Old 07-27-2012, 07:58 PM
pete1991YJ
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X2 what Old4x said. Remove grill and radiator. I would simply do all bearings at this point, and you might wanna replace your oil pump and pump pickup judging from the looks of it. Got some gunk build up in there.

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post #4 of 14 Old 07-27-2012, 09:05 PM
yjtyler
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I work on Rigs and yes u can do an in frame overhaul. I just did one today lol. But yes follow what has already been said, remove grill and radiator. How many miles are on the engine?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/350-swap-time-near-1406658
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-28-2012, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
Kevinyj95
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I havent done anything up inside her when I got her I replaced the oil pump and screen thinking it was the issue. Then moved onto 20w50 oil and lucas. I get good oil pressure all up until she starts to warm up. So I asked around and everyone said camshaft bearings. I have a knock so I figured camshaft and the bearings and lifters. But sadly my brother borrowed my engine lift like he borrowed my lawn mower and weed wacker last year......
I dont have any experience with these 2.5s. I was considering a master rebuild kit for around 350$. Some one had told me I have to remove the freeze plugs in the back of the motor so I would have to rmove it to take out the rear bearing. I really want to get this thing on the road. It would save time and money to not have to remove the motor. Thanks for all the help guys.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-28-2012, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Ohh engine has 120k
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-28-2012, 01:05 PM
pete1991YJ
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The oil pressure is also from the rod bearings, not just the cam bearings. If a rod is loose, the oil pressure will drop. And it will have that knock. If it was me, I would just replace all the bearings and gaskets. 120 K miles isn't very much, there are guys in here with 300 K. Mine has 159 K with all original bearings and stuff, its just fine.

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post #8 of 14 Old 07-28-2012, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Well I guess PO didnt change his oil very much. The person that changed it for him last said he was at 10k without changeing it.
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-28-2012, 07:36 PM
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Certainly possible - but bearing-related low oil pressure is usually caused by worn mains or rods, since they're subject to greater stress (cams just spin on a film of oil - if it's working properly the cam touches the bearing shells for <0.5% of runtime. Rod bearings & main bearings get pounded - the upper rod shells and lower main shells go first.)

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post #10 of 14 Old 07-28-2012, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Im getting this squeel when it first starts aswell. Like a p/s squeel almost but it goes away when I reach oil pressure.
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post #11 of 14 Old 07-28-2012, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Is the wear on the crankshaft normal? Does it look like it needs to be replaced?
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-28-2012, 08:59 PM
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinyj95 View Post
Im getting this squeel when it first starts aswell. Like a p/s squeel almost but it goes away when I reach oil pressure.
That squeal is shot bearings. As in, its about to seize up. Because the bearings are dry and it isn't building oil pressure fast enough. Because your PO was an idiot about oil changes.

FWIW, I change mine every 3 mos regardless of miles. I use Rotella-T HD diesel oil because it cleans the gunk right out. With a fresh filter every time. Its only $20 and 10 minutes to do it.

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-29-2012, 07:06 AM
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Not sure on the freeze plug since i work with big stuff. Just a thought, did u check the compression in each cyl. Since it is apart this much it would really suck to have to tear it Back down once u get it back together. Check the cam thoroughly. Look for scoring and check the lobes for wear. The cam prob isn't the answer like what has been said but check it anyhow. Make sure when u take the rod and main caps off check the crank

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/350-swap-time-near-1406658
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-29-2012, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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The pics are from when I did the oil pump. Shes all put back together right now. Im thinking im going with the master rebuild. It would save alot of money If I didnt have to change the crankshaft and camshaft. In the pic it looks like theres alot of wear on the cam. Its 379$ for a kit with a cam its 185$ more for one with a crank. But its only 200$ for one without the cam or crank.
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