1in Daystar BL
I recieved a 1in daystar bl for xmas. Anything I should be worrying about when I install this? Any problems or comment would help.
Honda stands for Had One Never Drive Another
See FAQ regarding body mount locations which also speaks to potential problems with rust. It's an easy job if you don't have rust issues.
1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
If you are able to get all the bolts out then all you need is a hi lift jack to seperate the tub from the frame. If you snap a bolt or spin a nutsert be prepared to cut the body or at the very least drill and tap for the new bolts. Mine went in fine but my jeep has only seen CA and AZ weather.
I drilled holes where the welded nutserts were in the body (like in the writeup) and gave it a good PB Blaster soaking for a week prior to picking up a wrench. Luckily I didn't break any though I thought I came pretty close. Then again my jeep has only been in the South out of the rust belt.
Here's the link for convenience:
Here's the link for convenience:
PB blast the crap out of the bolts for atleast a week! I did mine last winter. I did have to cut into My rear corner on passenger side to fix a snapped off bolt. I'm going to be doing another one here shortly on My buddys jeep. Allready been pouring the PB to it! My front clip was off mine when I did it last year, and that made it alot easier to put the corner pieces on the grill. Be patient when backing out the bolts! loosen a little bit, then tighten, loosen, tighten,,,,All the threads will have thicker rust above the nuts. If you start backing them out and they start to get tight, thats when they will snap off!
My YJ seems to be a freak, but all of my bolts came out with no complications or hard wrenching. Make sure you have a second eye watching the engine bay for hoses, lines, and wires that might get over stretched and pop off. Also make sure your fan blade clears the fan shroud when you're done. Mine didn't need dropped or anything. Keep an eye on the fuel filler hose too. Otherwise, just take your time and be safe. I used 2x4s on the frame while I moved the jack from front to back. Mine went in in about an hour and was by far the easiest thing I've done to my Jeep.
100% agree on the PB blaster comments. I had to cut out one bolt, but it was the one under the passengers feet. I didn't install the grill corners per directions. As I got each side up, I pulled the stock ones off with a pair of channel locks, the lubed up the new ones and pushed them on as far as I could. When I lowered the jack the weight of the Jeep pushed the grill corners right on.
1992 YJ Sahara- 4.5" RE XD, 1" BL, 1" MML, 35" BFG MT, 8.8 w/Aussie, D30 w/Ten Factory shafts/ Aussie, 4:10 gears, Soild Diff Covers, SYE, CV Drive shaft, OBA, Flowmaster Super 44,, Custom head pipe, Super Chip, Boared out TB, Rock It Intake , Goferit Tie Rod Flip, 99+ intake manifold/Steering pump, custom front/rear bumpers,Hand Throttle, Hurst Shifter, Smitty Built sliders , 6" TJ flairs, Kilby belly up skid, Quadratech 9K winch, ZJ PS cooler. 01 XJ Sport-2" lift, 31x10.50 MT/ 02 Liberty 2" Lift
Pitts is in the rust belt. You will want to find and SOAK the bolts with PB blaster for at least 3 days before taking them out. You MUST drill the floor above the captured nuts to soak the bolts.
'91 Frankenheep YJ. 4.0, 4" BDS, Richmond 8.8, Titan 12k, 35" KM2's, rust.
'88 YJ, 4.2/4.0 head, +4½" & shackles, BFG 33's (sold)
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