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Unread 11-12-2013, 04:25 PM   #31
dbody
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Florence, MS
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbody View Post
ok this is what it read i started and let idle and it was on/around 50 PSI

took the vacuum line off of regulator and nothing changed....

shut off and the pressure immediately dropped to 0 PSI...
Does this tell you anything (for sure)??? is regulator bad and should it hold pressure with it completely cut off? IF so what does this tell me?

Thanks for your help!!


Also forgot to mention that with the key in just the on position it reads at 20 PSI and drops to 0 PSI with 2 or 3 minutes..

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Unread 11-13-2013, 05:34 AM   #32
Que89YJ
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Detroit, Michigan
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That soundfs like a bad regulator.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 05:40 AM   #33
Siva283
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Wow if your at 50 psi your fuel regulator is bad. With it not holding pressure that also points to the check valve in the pump which would mean you need a new pump is well
__________________
1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 11-13-2013, 06:32 AM   #34
Que89YJ
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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I stongly suspect he has both. 50 psi is defnitely high and no change with the vacuum is a bad regulator. Siva if the diaphram is ripped it will allow the pressure to bleed off. You need to replace the regulator and recheck the pressure to see if the pressure still bleeds down. Post back your results.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 07:35 AM   #35
dbody
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Florence, MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
I stongly suspect he has both. 50 psi is defnitely high and no change with the vacuum is a bad regulator. Siva if the diaphram is ripped it will allow the pressure to bleed off. You need to replace the regulator and recheck the pressure to see if the pressure still bleeds down. Post back your results.
ok thank you i will change this afternoon and let you know thanks for the help and i will report back to you guys.

also someone said that it could be the CPS could be causing this as well. Could this be true?

and how to i need to test to see if it "bleeds back down"?
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Unread 11-13-2013, 07:44 AM   #36
Que89YJ
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If the CPS is going then when you have a no start you will not have spark. Check for spark the next time it happens. You definitely have a fuel pressure issue. Bleed down is how long it maintains pressure above 20 with the key off.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 10:17 AM   #37
dbody
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
If the CPS is going then when you have a no start you will not have spark. Check for spark the next time it happens. You definitely have a fuel pressure issue. Bleed down is how long it maintains pressure above 20 with the key off.
ok thank you i do have spark when it was not starting but it is starting now although it is a "hard start" (pumping or pressing gas) this is probably because the loss of pressure??

so does this mean i need a new regulator??
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Unread 11-13-2013, 11:25 AM   #38
Que89YJ
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You need to start with the regulator for sure. There is a possibility live Siva said of another issue. You cant tell until you fix the first one. Siva was right when he was talking about a failure of the check valve built into the pump assembly inside the tank that will cause it to stop the pump from building pressure at start. So would a leaking injector. You need to be methodical so do the regulator and recheck the pressure.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 01:58 PM   #39
dbody
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
You need to start with the regulator for sure. There is a possibility live Siva said of another issue. You cant tell until you fix the first one. Siva was right when he was talking about a failure of the check valve built into the pump assembly inside the tank that will cause it to stop the pump from building pressure at start. So would a leaking injector. You need to be methodical so do the regulator and recheck the pressure.
ok i will do this after work and let you know.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 07:16 PM   #40
dbody
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbody View Post
ok i will do this after work and let you know.
update changed the Fuel Pressure Regulator i am still getting above normal PSI on Idle and nothing changes when pulling vacuum line... NOW over (50 PSI)

although it is holding fuel at 30 PSI with it off and seems to be the "fix"

took more than 25 minutes to get down to 15 PSI with it not started...

i started it with not problem after 5 min, 10 min, 25min....

I think we figured it out. but it is high on the PSI at around 50/55 idiling and pulling vacuum.

good thing is that it is starting and running like it should (so FAR)

you guys are the best but if you have any suggestions that need to be adressed about how high the PSI is please let me know!
\
so thankful for all of you if i see a change i will get back with you guys...
Nothing like having someone that has (been there done that) and dont have a clue who they are or anything about them and still help!!

GOD BLESS YOU GUYS AND AMERICA!! @ 3%

(I will be an outlaw when guns are OUTLAWED)

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE ESPECIALLY QUE!!!!:thum bsup:
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Unread 11-13-2013, 08:46 PM   #41
Que89YJ
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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You still have an issue with that high pressure and you really need to figure it out. That is why the regulator failed. There is an easy way to isolate it. Pull the return fuel line off the hose going to the tank and run it into a gas can. Remove the fuel pump relay in the pdc and Jumper the fuel pump relay from pin 30 to 87. The return line in the tank gets blocked by the tank warping. If the pressure drops to normal then you really need to drop the tank and cut the return line by a couple inches to move it away from the bottom of the tank.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 06:17 AM   #42
Siva283
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He should also check to be sure its not pinched back by the tank where the line goes over the crossmember. They get piched there sometimes when the body mounts are really worn or the body sags or if the tank was dropped by someone and when they put it back they didn't pay attention. Eithier way I am with Que you need to check out your return line and he just described the simplest way.
__________________
1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 11-14-2013, 08:04 AM   #43
dbody
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Florence, MS
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
You still have an issue with that high pressure and you really need to figure it out. That is why the regulator failed. There is an easy way to isolate it. Pull the return fuel line off the hose going to the tank and run it into a gas can. Remove the fuel pump relay in the pdc and Jumper the fuel pump relay from pin 30 to 87. The return line in the tank gets blocked by the tank warping. If the pressure drops to normal then you really need to drop the tank and cut the return line by a couple inches to move it away from the bottom of the tank.
Ok I can try this although i do not know where this is or how to do the mentioned. "Pull the return fuel line off the hose going to the tank and run it into a gas can. Remove the fuel pump relay in the pdc and Jumper the fuel pump relay from pin 30 to 87"

can you please give me some details on how to do this? Again thank you for all the help and i look forward to hearing backl from you guys...
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Unread 11-14-2013, 11:10 AM   #44
Que89YJ
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Detroit, Michigan
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The return line is self explanitory. You need to get underneath and get it disconnected. Here is a thread with a bunch of pics:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1...moval-1167482/

Before jumpering the relay hook up ypur pressure guage and put the gas can in line with the disconnected return hose. The jumper is just taking a short piece of wire 3" long and bare on both sides. With the relay out look down inside the socket you pulled the relay out of. Put the ends of the wire into the soket for pins 30 and 87. The fuel pump will be running now without any key and you can check the pressure at the rail. If it drops to 31 psi then you are dealing with a tank issue. If it is still high then you have an issue between the fuel rail and the tank.
relay.gif

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