This is going to be a thread I will be posting pictures of my experience dropping the tank and replacing the fuel pump. I am just getting it started today, and will be adding more in the days to come. This is not necessarily meant to be a "how to", but if it helps someone, great. 1st picture, removed all the bolts/nuts on the back of the gas tank skid plate. PB Blaster is on the skid, not fuel leaking. The studs sticking down through are the straps that wrap around the tank. There are 3 bolts on the opposite side above the differential that hold the other side of the skid that have to be removed. A floor jack or jacks is something you want to have under tank for support. 2nd picture, I removed plastic cover behind rear wheel to access delivery lines from filler. 3rd Picture, Cover. I pretty much just ripped it out of there, but, a person can probably take a little more time to try and salvage more of the securing pins probably. 4th picture, I realized after looking up under the cover behind the rear wheel I was not going to be able to access the clamps the unhook the lines at the tank end as from the factory, they tightened them down from the top. 5th picture, I decided I did not want to damage the delivery lines, so I loosened all of the perimeter screws around the gas cap mount area. I could not access one of the upper delivery line clamps to mount near the gas cap either, so this is why I chose to do it this way.
I read a good article on symptoms of weak fuel pumps, and some warning signs. They can mimic other problems in the early stages, and how people make several lesser repairs before the possible big ticket expense of the fuel pump. Looking at some of them, I can now identify them as some of what I was experiencing, and what my fuel pump was warning me of, imminent doom.
1- "Your car will lose power as you pull away from a standing stop."
You push down the accelerator, it starts to go and kind of feels like its going to die/losing power. Similar symtoms to a failing 02 sensor, or smog control devices, or failing coil.
You lose power at highway speeds, especially when climbing hill or under strain.
There are other symptoms such as vehicle jerking on the highway, or stutter for a couple of miles, then run fine for the next 50 or more miles.
These are all warnings of an in tank failing fuel pump.
An in tank fuel pump can fail completely in an instant such as happened in my case overlooking some of the warning signs. To its credit, it lasted 16 years, and 312,000 miles. Time for a new one. Totally satisfied with that.
I am hoping to finish the final install tomorrow, and will be photo updating this thread this week. Thanks for the responses.
Wow, thanks for this thread and pictures. I am 99% sure my fuel pump needs to be replaced also. It seems now the only way to get the Jeep started is with me cranking on the key, while someone is back there hammering on the tank with a rubber mallot. I don't hear the fuel pump priming. Well I do, after it's been running. But then if I let it sit for more than 5 or 10 minutes. Turn key to ON and no pump prime. Then try to start, and no start. I swapped the horn and pump relays. Even bought a new relay, and cleaned the block terminals, just in case. Checked all the fuses under the dash. I had read another common problem is that at some place, the wires going to the pump, get pinched against the frame, shorting, causing a no start. Trying to find out where that is??? It's probably my last thing to check before dropping the tank and changing the pump. I figure, maybeeee a chance, that the hammering on the tank is bouncing those wires, loosening them from being pinched, allowing the proper signal to the pump to start. Yeah, I know wishful thinking, right? But hopefully easy enough to check, before going through the process of dropping the tank and paying $80 for a new fuel pump.
Oh, Autozone said there are 2 types of pumps? Screw-in and Plug-in. And that I wouldn't know which until I pull the old one? Is this true or no??
Also read about the ground strap that is mounted near the emergency brake. Mine is there but looks rusty. But read, if that is broken off or not making a good connection, the gas gauge on the dash would be pinned and doing other odd things. Do you have to remove that ground strap, when dropping the tank?? Also, do you all replace the fuel pump while replacing the fuel pump? I see it mounted on the frame. And that too looks rusty.
My first Wrangler was a 1987. The first of the YJ's. And as poorly as that carbureted engine ran, it sure was simple replacing the fuel pump and filter, as they are just under the hood!
Blue 1993 Wrangler YJ, 6cyl, 4.0L 5spd, 140K miles.
Snakeroo, you're welcome. You are hammering on the gas tank with a rubber mallot? Had to smile when I read that, not sure if I'd do that kind of thing, but I do find it humorous for some reason.
As far as wires going to the pump, getting pinched against the frame, shorting, causing no start; That I can see possibly if the rubber frame mounts are crushed or severly degraded, or something like that, but, I would think a more causitive factor, if that is the case, is if someone routed them improperly possibly also. The wires route from above the tank, on the drivers side along the frame rail on my 95. They are not easy to see in that area until you start dropping the tank. If there is a short, I would think you would see an eratic fuel gauge, or pegged fuel gauge.
I inquired with Autozone to see what they had, and what he would say. For my 95, he just asked me the year and engine displacement, and the 1st digit of the vin #. If the 1st digit is a 1, then it is an american model, if the first digit is a 2, then it is canadian?..I think he said. I did not buy one from Autozone, but, that's what he said regarding figuring out which pump it is. Mine is a plug in connection, not screw type.
If you went to a dealer, I think they go by the last 8 or 9 digits of the vin and will be able to tell for sure using those numbers.
The ground strap mounted near or on the e-brake bolt? I have heard of that, I have not seen that on my 95, but it is possible it is there, I not 100% on that. If there is a bad connection there on yours, for sure clean all that up. I would say you do not have to remove the ground strap before removing the tank/pump. But, you do need to disconnect the battery terminals completely. I usually disconnect the ground wire from the battery first, then the positive terminal.
Yes you should always replace the fuel filter along with the pump, it is a wise thing to do. If it looks rusty, yes, replace it.
The fuel pump under the hood style is fine, but, pumps push fluid much more efficiently then pulling fluids to the engine, plus an in tank pump has the advantage of the gasoline cooling the pump, that's why it is never good to run low on gas, or, especially run out of gas. It will shorten the life of the pump. An in tank pump will last a long long time when minding these things. Mine lasted 16 years and 312,000 miles, and I can't tell you how many times I ran mine low on gas..many many times. If you want to OEM, which is what they, (Jeep) used from factory, it is BOSCH fuel pumps, this is what I bought today, and assembled in my pump assembly. I went to one dealer a few days back, and I told them I want OEM, and the ***hats put a cheap "Sap" pump in a Mopar box in which I will be returning, even the small feed line to the pump was the wrong size.
Even though the part number listed on the original Bosch pump itself may be a different stamped number on the new Bosch pump, it does not mean that it is the wrong pump. Part numbers on these pumps get superceded, and changed every few years at dealers.
I will have a lot more on this install later this week, and a lot of pictures. Today was install and testing day. The tank is still out, but I am able to raise the tank just enough to attach the fuel lines and power line, and started it up. So it works great, it is back to life again. Tomorrow I am going to pull the pump back out breifly, and flush the tank out, there are various small metal shavings scattered about the bottom of the tank, probably from banging the fuel nozzle at gas stations against the metal fuel entry area under the gas cap for so many years. But other than that, it looks pretty clean.
This is a good informative post, but it should be mentioned that for those who don't care about keeping their Jeep pristine, you can just remove the back seat and cut a big |___| shape in the rear of the tub. Fold back the sheet metal to have access to the fuel pump. Replace it that way and save yourself a bunch of work. Re-weld cuts if you feel-so-inclined. Search for it on google, there are a few write-ups with pics to show you where to cut.
94 YJ w/ stuff. All the work/money I put into it, and the comment I get most is my $20 mod: "Hand throttle?!? That's awesome."
Originally Posted by dmcanally
You know you drive a YJ when it is no longer getting older, but slowly becoming brand new part by part.
Use two jacks when putting it back in place, as it just makes it easier. I had a helluva time getting the new lines through that tiny hole in the bodywork. To get them through I smeared vaseline all over the ends (make sure to keep out of fuel line) and sliced one at a diagonal to push it through the gap, then re-sliced it to secure it to the metal fuel line.
Current - 1993 Wrangler 2.5 - mostly stock
Previous - 1989 Comanche Pioneer 4x4 Long Bed/Metric Ton Pkg
4.0, AT, D44 w/ Trak-Lok RIP
The fuel pump access panel is genius! Yeah, I read about the rubber mallot and yup, it works. At least for a certain time, until the pump just completely dies, I guess. Makes sense about the gas keeping it cool. And yeah, not running it low on gas or until empty. Which is when my pump first got stuck! Live and learn. Yeah, it's probably not the pinched wires, else I would likely see other odd symptoms. My VIN starts with the number 1. I will call a dealer and ask for the part number and see if they can tell me whether it's plug-in or screw-in. So where did you end up getting the Bosch pump and how much did it cost? Glad that it's all working proper! Hopefully, getting the tank back up and secured should go smoothly for ya!
Oh, don't the 92 and newer Wranglers have some sort of screen in there to prevent siphoning? I've got about a half a tank in there.
Blue 1993 Wrangler YJ, 6cyl, 4.0L 5spd, 140K miles.
After you remove the bolts securing the front and back of skid plate, the fuel tank will drop down. 1st picture, connector for power to the fuel pump you will want to disconnect this after you drop the tank approx 6" and it comes into accessibility and view. 2nd picture, moving around to the front of the tank facing back, you can see the above tank fuel line connections. For the factory fuel lines, I carefully cut the rubber lines close to the clamp with a razor knife. These are clamped on from factory with a special tool and found them more trouble than they are worth to attempt to pry them off. Just use caution when doing this as the power to pump wiring is nearby. 3rd picture, you can see how the factory inaccessibility to the clamps for the delivery lines causes the lines to hit the frame if you keep them connected. But it does allow you to drop it some to a certain point. 4th picture, on the passengers side you can see how this side of the tank hits the exhaust pipe on mine. Basically, my tank would simply not just drop down, and hit the ground by itself. I pried the fuel tank skid plate out, then pulled the plastic tank out exhaust side first, then delivery line side second. I had to push and sort of pry the exhaust pipe some to get the tank to squeeze by. I will add, if I were approaching this all over again, I'd cut the exhaust pipe off somewhere near the axle, and simply have a muffler shop weld it back in. Its a pain working with that in the way when you are trying to salvage the filler lines still attached on the other side. 5th picture, a view of the breather T connection line for the lines on top of the tank, and the power connection to the tank. Both in close proximity to each other. Disconnect lines attached so you can drop tank completely.
1st picture, while the tank was still in, after I cut the first fuel line, I zip tied one side on the tank, and one on the line as to assure not to connect lines the wrong way. 2nd picture, tank is out! 3rd picture, close view of top of tank securing area for pump. 4th picture, view of lines. 5th picture, filler tube lines.
1st picture, I found that the two fuel lines are not the same size on my 95, the diameters are close, but slightly different for each, still zip tie is a good idea. 2nd picture, facing the camera up top towards frame, another view of the connections near the frame. 3rd picture, my mandrel bent tail pipe, looks relitively clean also, not much black carbon really for 312,000 miles. Probably due to a high percentage of moonshine in the fuel. 4th picture, I squared in area where the filler lines pass through the frame and the body while still attached. There is just enough room but you you want to guide the attached lines through the hole from a helper or with one arm while dropping if you cant disconnect them, and want to salvage them. I did this job completely by myself with one jack, and a few chunks of wood here and there. 5th picture, I used a wisk broom and cleand the top of the tank to get the heavy dirt off.
I will post these pictures from the first dealer I went to of the Sap' fuel pump that I purchased as it was part of my experience, only to find it is a non-OEM pump, and even stated remanufactured on the side of the pump box. I did go to another dealer, and buy the OEM version, and returned this Sap pump today. Over priced at 140 bucks.
1st picture is the dealer pump filter wrapped in plastic, this part I found of good quality. 2nd picture, 3rd, and 4th picture, views of instructions, and also tank seal for pump wrapped in plastic from dealer. 5th picture, view of gas filler area with filler line assembly removed.
1st picture, these are fuel lines clamps I purchased at Autozone for a few bucks, there are 4 total in the package. 2nd picture, 3rd picture, views of factory skid plate. 4th picture, you see better here the slight difference in the fuel line sizes between the two. 5th picture, 8mm socket removes securing bolts at top of pump assembly.