1994 AX5 to AX15 Conversion - Page 3

**UltimatE** · 10-20-2009, 11:47 PM

I have no idea what I have... I'll go snap some pics of both.

Here's the '94 2.5L 231, electric speedometer sender. The housing is 8" long.

And here is the one I bought. I did notice the tag on the transfer case said NP-231C ... is that a bad thing? The housing is 7" long.

**UltimatE** · 10-20-2009, 11:57 PM

Forgot to post a pic of the front yoke.

**jbjorgen** · 10-21-2009, 12:13 AM

NP-231C is from a Chevy, not a Jeep.

**Mean Max** · 10-21-2009, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UltimatE

I have no idea what I have... I'll go snap some pics of both.

Here's the '94 2.5L 231, electric speedometer sender. The housing is 8" long.
You mean the "tail cone" part is 8" long. What about the housing between the "tail cone" and the main housing. That's where the speedo sensor is, can those be swapped between the two?

And here is the one I bought. I did notice the tag on the transfer case said NP-231C ... is that a bad thing? The housing is 7" long.
NP231C means it's a Chevrolet T-case. Does it have a "K" cast into it? The "K" casting units are the HD (Heavy Duty) cases.

Quote:

Originally Posted by UltimatE

Forgot to post a pic of the front yoke.
Like I was saying, it's for a CV style shaft. Swap it for a YJ model designed for a single cardan joint.

Max

white_elephant · 10-21-2009, 09:34 AM

what about this?

712563 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters

**UltimatE** · 10-21-2009, 11:52 AM

Max, from the body of the transfer case to the end of the output shaft is 8". the tail cones look to be the same size but the speedo housing is ~1" longer. I can't use that because I only had 1/2" play to install the rear driveshaft. I might need to go with a short housing SYE and custom driveshaft to get around all the issues as well as getting rid of the TC drop all at once.

I don't see a K cast into the case, so no luck there. I'll just swap the front yoke from my old 231 to solve that issue -- thanks max, always a wealth of knowledge.

Also, I measured the length of the bell housings, and the AX-5 is 6 7/8" deep where as the Dakota AX-15 is 7 7/8" ... With everything else the same, I should make a new slave cylinder push rod 1" longer to compensate. Does that sound correct?

**Mean Max** · 10-21-2009, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UltimatE

Max, from the body of the transfer case to the end of the output shaft is 8". the tail cones look to be the same size but the speedo housing is ~1" longer. I can't use that because I only had 1/2" play to install the rear driveshaft. I might need to go with a short housing SYE and custom driveshaft to get around all the issues as well as getting rid of the TC drop all at once.
That would be the best route, in my opinion. Just make sure that you tell whoever you're ordering the SYE from that the T-case is a NP231 C model, and that you need to provide a VSS signal for your Jeep!

I don't see a K cast into the case, so no luck there. I'll just swap the front yoke from my old 231 to solve that issue -- thanks max, always a wealth of knowledge.
You're welcome, I try as best as I can.

Also, I measured the length of the bell housings, and the AX-5 is 6 7/8" deep where as the Dakota AX-15 is 7 7/8" ... With everything else the same, I should make a new slave cylinder push rod 1" longer to compensate. Does that sound correct?
Based on the math you provided, it sounds like a good place to start!

Max

**UltimatE** · 10-30-2009, 01:08 PM

Made a clutch pin 1" longer, and even removed the plastic spacer on the slave cylinder. 1.25" extra throw and its still not enough. Won't release the clutch.

Has anyone successfully done an AX-5 to AX-15 swap?

**Mean Max** · 10-30-2009, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UltimatE

Made a clutch pin 1" longer, and even removed the plastic spacer on the slave cylinder. 1.25" extra throw and its still not enough. Won't release the clutch.

Has anyone successfully done an AX-5 to AX-15 swap?

Hey Matt!

Sorry to hear you're still having issues.

Having not done the swap, and not being there to actually get a "feel" for what's going on is a real handicap to me. I wish I were of more help!

czjeeper has done that swap, and here's his write-up on it.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/2...mplete-659386/

I read it thoroughly & unfortunately it doesn't address your issue. Please PM him & see if he can provide you with any additional insight.

Max

moonshinefuel · 10-30-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UltimatE

Made a clutch pin 1" longer, and even removed the plastic spacer on the slave cylinder. 1.25" extra throw and its still not enough. Won't release the clutch.

Has anyone successfully done an AX-5 to AX-15 swap?

Whoa, now that is surprising. I have not done mine yet, but, it should be enough to release the clutch. Your clutch hydraulics are fine?

**UltimatE** · 10-31-2009, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moonshinefuel

Whoa, now that is surprising. I have not done mine yet, but, it should be enough to release the clutch. Your clutch hydraulics are fine?

They seem to be working just fine. My slave doesn't have a bleeder screw, and the fluid is at the correct level.

I shot CZJeeper a PM, hopefully he has some insight.

....

**Mean Max** · 10-31-2009, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UltimatE

They seem to be working just fine. My slave doesn't have a bleeder screw, and the fluid is at the correct level.

I shot CZJeeper a PM, hopefully he has some insight.

....

I believe your problem is as simple as air in the hydraulics.

I also believe that all of the slave cylinders have some sort of way to bleed them, I'm looking for pics to try to help you out right now!

We'll get ya going.

Max

**Opihi59** · 10-31-2009, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UltimatE

......My slave doesn't have a bleeder screw, and the fluid is at the correct level.......

In response to a request from Mean Max to post up some ext slave bleeder screw photos from my library. Here they are. I will add in some text, but I believe Max is waiting to add in some description as well.

While I understand you do not have a bleeder screw in your ext slave, these were at one time designed to be bled. The one in my Jeep is not bleedable and the "plug" in the bleeder tower looks like this:

I have theorized (but not yet had to test....) that you could drill a hole thru the metal plug, put in an easy out, and back out that plug. Then you could find a bleeder plug similar to the one in the photos above, and then be able to bleed your external slave. Perhaps could even use something as simple as a threaded allen head stop-screw.

I believe you will get more via Max in a few moments.

**Mean Max** · 10-31-2009, 02:30 PM

Thanks Opihi59! Those are exactly the pics I was looking for.

Everything I can find on the "plugged" model slave cylinders indicates that bleeding the system can only be acheived through copious amounts of pedal pumping.

I believe as you do, that the plug can be removed & replaced with a bleeder screw. But I don't have any proof of that either, only a hunch.

But air in the system is the only logical explanation (in my opinion) for the hassle he's having with it.

I'll keep working on it.........

Max

**UltimatE** · 10-31-2009, 02:33 PM

Correct, my slave looks like the one in the last picture, without the set screw. Is there a way to bleed it without drilling out the plug?

Edit: Posted at the same time... I'll go see if I can find a set screw that will go in there.