1993 YJ Starting Issue - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 48 Old 06-07-2012, 06:01 PM
Que89YJ
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The cracking isn't good but you need to check your bleed down of fuel pressure with a guage after you shut it off. You can put a refundable deposit on the guage at any good parts store.

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post #17 of 48 Old 06-08-2012, 11:29 PM
HandsOn
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And that level of cracking can be indicative of something even more nefarious than leaking fuel. Leaking air and causing confusion.

Air molecules are smaller than gas molecules are, so when a hose is just borderline to the point it's not quite leaking fuel, you can still suck air into the system which can lead to a pump losing it's prime an not flowing anything worthwhile, or at the very least not providing a legitimate fuel flow through the system.

Hoses in this condition may be perfectly fine sometimes, but also have issues with things like collapsing under pressure or just having enough debris, or basically lack of a smooth inner wall, that can in effect block the flow of gas. Especially in bends and turns.

So even if this is not your son's issue, I'd be looking at replacing any rubber lines in the fuel system with new. It's going to have to happen sooner or later anyway. Might as well be sooner, so an undetected fuel leak doesn't lead to other problems. You know... Like fire.

And who knows? It might even help fix the issue. And putting new filters in at the same time is just good sound practice. I don't remember if you said you already did that recently, but it doesn't look like it, considering the appearance of the hoses and connections.

Paul
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post #18 of 48 Old 06-12-2012, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ok....sorry for the lag in time....trying to match time up with my boy's schedule can be difficult sometimes.

We attached the fuel pressure tester and bled it off. The only reading we could get was when it was idling.

Idle: 30psi

When I pulled a vaccuum line on the fuel rail, it didn't increase at all.

When we turned it off to do the 20 minute time test, it lasted about 15 seconds before going to zero.

We went and bought a new fuel filter, hoses, and clamps. We will change those out and retest it to see if that helps.

Some of the vaccuum lines have pretty good cracking. Where would one find those (other than a junkyard) to replace them? If I have to, I'll hit the junkyard but I don't want to replace cracked lines with slightly better cracked lines lol....

It may be a few days before we report back. Thanks again for the guidance.
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post #19 of 48 Old 06-13-2012, 11:59 AM
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If the pressure bled off that fast after shutting down then you have an issue. The fact the pressure didn't change is odd. If the regulator goes the fuel pressure usually goes high. You can check to see if you hook up the guage one more time. pinch off the return fuel line and cycle the key on. The pressure should jump to 60psi+ and hold. If it doesn't then you have a bad regulator. If it does then bad fuel pump(check valve is in the pump).
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post #20 of 48 Old 06-14-2012, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
Hosejockey61
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We got the fuel filter and cracked lines replaced. We were even able to get a good vaccuum line at the junk yard. We hooked the fuel pressure test gauge back up and it seemed to be having a problem trying to get fuel in the line to the guage. If I tightened it down thumb tight, fuel would go in the line. If I backed it off a bit fuel would go in the line but my guess is that it is also letting air in which would explain why it would bleed down so fast.

Thanks que89 for the input....if you thought it was the fuel pump, wouldn't I exprience issues with it running too? The thing runs great once started.

I also pulled the codes again after working on it to see if anything changed....now shows 12, 13, 55.

Last edited by Hosejockey61; 06-14-2012 at 06:25 PM.
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post #21 of 48 Old 06-14-2012, 07:26 PM
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No, if the check valve is bad you have a tuff time starting it. You know you can get a guage set with a fully refundable deposit at any of the big auto parts store. If you can't trust the guage you have you need to get one you can. That leak down pressure reading is critical.
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post #22 of 48 Old 06-14-2012, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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The guage I used was from a good parts store here....I'll go to another store and use theirs to see if I have the same problem.
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post #23 of 48 Old 06-15-2012, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, tried a new gauge and had the same results...30ish at idle. As soon as I turn it off, it bled down immediately.

I started it back up and pinched the return line with no change in pressure.

On my way to the parts store to get a new regulator. I'll report back after installing it.....any preference between GP Sorensen vs. Borg Warner?

Last edited by Hosejockey61; 06-15-2012 at 11:49 AM.
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post #24 of 48 Old 06-15-2012, 12:16 PM
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No prefrence. You might have an issue with both. I am just saying don't be surprised.
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post #25 of 48 Old 06-15-2012, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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ok....installed the part.....was expecting great news......not to be had...

Same problem exists. All pressure readings are identical. Crimping return line, pressure still doesn't go up. I've checked for leaks everywhere and have found none.

What should I be looking at next....fuel pump?
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post #26 of 48 Old 06-18-2012, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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bump...
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post #27 of 48 Old 06-18-2012, 11:22 PM
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From what you have said It looks like the fuel pump would be the next item in line.

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post #28 of 48 Old 06-19-2012, 05:42 AM
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That is what I said by both. You are looking at a bad fuel pump or a leaky injector. Pinc off the return line and cycle the key on with the guage attached. Pressure should shoot up to 60+psi. If it hold pressure then the check valve is bad. If it doesn't then an injector is bad.
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post #29 of 48 Old 06-19-2012, 05:43 AM
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I am betting the fuel pump though.
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post #30 of 48 Old 06-19-2012, 10:46 AM
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I'd be looking at your grounds as well. Bad grounds can do funny things to electrical.
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