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Unread 05-20-2013, 06:57 PM   #16
bedwards24676
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brewton, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
getting close with no spark check your distributor cap and rotor
Can you give me advice on how to check the cap and rotor? Have not a clue. And btw thanks for helping guide the through this problem.

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Unread 05-20-2013, 07:22 PM   #17
idaholtby
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedwards24676 View Post
Can you give me advice on how to check the cap and rotor? Have not a clue. And btw thanks for helping guide the through this problem.
Like I said.... Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail Schrader valve first, then let us discuss the sensor in the dizzy. First things first. I am trying to avoid you throwing money at this and then hoping it fixes the problem. If your fuel pressure tests are good, then the distributer sensor is likely, but why replace that before you even logically troubleshoot your problem? I am not sold on the no spark issue as your rig runs, despite it being rich. That coupled with the OBDI code stored. Perhaps your spark is weak... but I don't believe we are there yet.
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Unread 05-20-2013, 07:34 PM   #18
idaholtby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idaholtby View Post
Like I said.... Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail Schrader valve first, then let us discuss the sensor in the dizzy. First things first. I am trying to avoid you throwing money at this and then hoping it fixes the problem. If your fuel pressure tests are good, then the distributer sensor is likely, but why replace that before you even logically troubleshoot your problem? I am not sold on the no spark issue as your rig runs, despite it being rich. That coupled with the OBDI code stored. Perhaps your spark is weak... but I don't believe we are there yet.
OK perhaps you did skip timing. Just read through your description again and this could very well be the case. Did the original issue happen upon down shifting? I would expect different codes stored though besides running rich. Perhaps I will learn something here?
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Unread 05-20-2013, 07:44 PM   #19
bedwards24676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idaholtby

OK perhaps you did skip timing. Just read through your description again and this could very well be the case. Did the original issue happen upon down shifting? I would expect different codes stored though besides running rich. Perhaps I will learn something here?
Yeah bud it won't run at all. This happened last night shifting through the gears I think from 3rd to 4th going about 35-40mph. Just skipped about 3 hard times cut off and won't start back. It seems to be spinning differently than before. Perhaps a little more free and then all of a sudden a catch kinda. For lack of a better explanation. I appreciate you trying to help and keep me from throwing money at it for no reason. So ill listen to any advice. But how I described is how it sits right now. I had to pull it home last night.
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Unread 05-20-2013, 07:58 PM   #20
Que89YJ
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x2 with idaholtby. I think he is right.
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Unread 05-20-2013, 08:10 PM   #21
idaholtby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedwards24676 View Post
Yeah bud it won't run at all. This happened last night shifting through the gears I think from 3rd to 4th going about 35-40mph. Just skipped about 3 hard times cut off and won't start back. It seems to be spinning differently than before. Perhaps a little more free and then all of a sudden a catch kinda. For lack of a better explanation. I appreciate you trying to help and keep me from throwing money at it for no reason. So ill listen to any advice. But how I described is how it sits right now. I had to pull it home last night.
Well then, have you verified your timing alignment? A quick gross check would be to rotate your crankshaft to where it is at zero degrees top dead center on the ignition stroke of the number one cylinder. Once there, verify that the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder post on the distributer cap. If not, then it may be necessary to pull the timing cover and check the alignment by verifying that the pulley marks align up when they should..
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:22 AM   #22
bedwards24676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idaholtby

Well then, have you verified your timing alignment? A quick gross check would be to rotate your crankshaft to where it is at zero degrees top dead center on the ignition stroke of the number one cylinder. Once there, verify that the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder post on the distributer cap. If not, then it may be necessary to pull the timing cover and check the alignment by verifying that the pulley marks align up when they should..
I haven't verified timing alignment. Only have about 30 mins before dark when I get off. And I go in at 5am. So not much time. But tonight my plans are to check alignment at tdc. pull the distributer cap and just have look to see what it all looks like. Like I said I can check tdc. But have never been inside a distributer before so its time to get my feet wet. What I know is I have a spark on only 1 cyl. And I feel like its trying to start on just that one cyl. That's the stuttering I am feeling when I turn the key and it wants to start every now and then. We will know more tonight I hope.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:23 AM   #23
bedwards24676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
it sounds like the pickup sensor in the distributor.
If it was a pickup sensor would i still have a spark on #4?
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Unread 05-21-2013, 05:30 AM   #24
Que89YJ
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Yes, you would or could. the pickup can replaced as a part of the entire distributor. The price difference is minimal. Replace the entire distributor, including cap and rotor. Mark the distributor and rotor postion before you replace it and make sure it goes back in the same way. Just curious, how many miles on the engine?
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Unread 05-21-2013, 07:05 AM   #25
bedwards24676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
Yes, you would or could. the pickup can replaced as a part of the entire distributor. The price difference is minimal. Replace the entire distributor, including cap and rotor. Mark the distributor and rotor postion before you replace it and make sure it goes back in the same way. Just curious, how many miles on the engine?
128,000 on the engine. I've only owned it for about 3 months and have only put about 200 miles on it. Had to put a transmission, clutch kit, rear main seal while we had the trans out. And painted it. So just really started driving it last Monday. And then this Sunday. Oh well hope it's nothing major. Doesn't sound like it. Thanks ill see what I've got tonight when I get off.
image-3513420720.jpg  
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Unread 05-21-2013, 07:11 AM   #26
bedwards24676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
Yes, you would or could. the pickup can replaced as a part of the entire distributor. The price difference is minimal. Replace the entire distributor, including cap and rotor. Mark the distributor and rotor postion before you replace it and make sure it goes back in the same way. Just curious, how many miles on the engine?
$60 for a new distributer. Ill give it a shot.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:19 AM   #27
Fozzybear42
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Nice looking yj!!!! Just keep listening to these guys and they'll get you through it. Good luck!!
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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:29 AM   #28
bedwards24676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fozzybear42
Nice looking yj!!!! Just keep listening to these guys and they'll get you through it. Good luck!!
Thanks buddy. Yeah I think they got me pointed in the right direction. This forum is full of helpful people.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:48 AM   #29
Que89YJ
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Trans......try disconnecting the vss plug on the tcase. It's a long shot but it does have the capability to cause you a no start if the sensor shorts.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:49 AM   #30
bedwards24676
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Brewton, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
Trans......try disconnecting the vss plug on the tcase. It's a long shot but it does have the capability to cause you a no start if the sensor shorts.
Ok I'll give it a try when I go home at lunch. Will post results.
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