1993 4.0 Complete Restore Project - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 38 Old 03-27-2015, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
disarm6565
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Austin, TX
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1993 4.0 Complete Restore Project

I bought my YJ used in 2004. Although I have done a lot of major upgrades, there was a time when I was younger, when the "right way of doing things" just wasn't practical. I turned 30 last week and have decided to fix my POs and my previous damage and completely restore the Jeep properly.

Overall it is in good shape. The 4.0 sits around around 186,000 miles. It has a slight tick from what I assume is a head (gasket?) problem, but this has been around since I can remember, normal 4.0 noise. The AX-15 is a reman with 5 years and 15 thousand miles on it. Both axles are original with a 4" lift and proper driveline fixes.

The Jeep spent a lot of time on the east coast, but is in surprisingly great shape as far as rust is concerned. There is some surface rust on the frame and a few bubbles, but no cancer that I can tell.



The body is not rusted, except for the front floor panels, but I mistreated her a bit...

I will get into details but I have a two month plan for restoration. I will be pulling the motor first, sending it off to a machine shop and the reassembling in my garage. While that is out, the body is going to my friend's house to be welded and then I will POR-15 the frame. It's a bit more complicated then I am implying but I will get into the details in further posts. Get the popcorn ready, it's going to be a fun two months.


1993 4.0 AX-15
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post #2 of 38 Old 03-27-2015, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
disarm6565
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Location: Austin, TX
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Week One: The last few days I have spent removing the extras from the body. I am not quite ready to park it yet, as I need to acquire a few tools, parts, and supplies before I do.

Rear seats and seatbelts were a breeze, since I did a new seat install back in October. The first time around it wasn't as fun, mainly requiring vice grips and a breaker bar to get the rear seatbelt torx bolt out.

I have a hole in my body from a 3" body lift I had put on to clear tires 10 years ago, (Kids, DON'T PUT A 3" BODY LIFT ON YOUR JEEP FOR ANY REASON EVER)!

I have another crack in the rear (I just realized how hilarious that sounds). And my front floor boards are rusty but not "flintstoned." I have a piece of the floor cut by my transmission (clutch install not realizing the top bolt was a an E-whatever, I still have it as it cost me $120 to have a mechanic remove it). I also have a hole in my floor from a DIY posi-lok (again kids, don't do it, just upgrade to the TJ axles shafts). Remember, everything is fun and games until you rip the 4x4 cable right out of your front axle in the middle of a blizzard and do a 360 on an on ramp of I-40.

Although there is a nice body for $700 available on CL, I have a friend that has offered to fix the body damage. He welds, I make ze beer, Which reminds me, if any of you live in Austin TX, I'll gladly trade homebrew for help.

Tomorrow I'm going to go pick up this guy

http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/4886946310.html

This past week I removed, rear seats, seat belts, door catches, roll bar foam, sound bar (that has never been hooked up for the 11 years I've owned the jeep) and 3/4 fender flares. I'm stuck on one of the front ones as it has a round bolt connecting a piece of metal by the driver door. I'm not sure what is going on there but I have a WTF PO moment I think, still trying to make sense of it.

1993 4.0 AX-15
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post #3 of 38 Old 03-28-2015, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
disarm6565
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Fender Flares:

Well they weren't a PITA, but they were annoying. Driver's side rear came out with a pair of vice grips and an 8mm socket. Passenger rear had two nutserts cut off with a dremel because the bolts were rusted and round. Front passenger had bolts instead of the nutsers. I assume the PO wrecked the fender at some point because it also didn't have the neon pink/green decal under the flare. ALL of these bolts were so rusted they snapped. Makes things easier then actual wrenching.

Front Driver is not off yet but will be tomorrow. It had nutserts, a weird placement for one of them and the bolt near the driver door is held on by a round piece of metal. I have no idea why, but I will take a picture once removed.

1993 4.0 AX-15
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post #4 of 38 Old 03-28-2015, 03:28 PM
geusey
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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I feel like I'm reading my own build thread. I have a 92 that has rust, also spend time on the east coast, and had dumb things I "fixed" on it when I was younger - I was a college kid just trying to keep it running from one semester to another. I actually went with a rust free body/frame I found for $600 from an 88. Currently have the engine rebuilt and am working on putting in the wiring and driveline from the old body.

Looks like your having fun so far! Keep us updated.

It seemed like a good idea at the time...
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post #5 of 38 Old 03-28-2015, 08:43 PM
Michaelgoesrawr
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Garage
I'm in waco. I could probably make it down if you need some sort of help. I cant weld and I don't drink though.

Adopt your pets. Don't shop for them.
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post #6 of 38 Old 03-29-2015, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
disarm6565
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All fender flares are off now. I will try to respond to individual replies as best as possible.

Thank you geusy, we learn from our mistakes and as long as your mantra is "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right," then no harm done.

Michaelgoesrawr, I may need some help, I'm also happy to work on any repairs you may need (I have tools and time).

So the last fender flare finally came off. I had to grind the bolt with the rounded nut.


1993 4.0 AX-15
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post #7 of 38 Old 03-31-2015, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
disarm6565
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Today I had to replace a U-Joint in the driveshaft (of course). It's supposed to rain tomorrow, so I'll probably put the shaft back in on Thursday. If it's nice enough I'm going to head to the local pick-n-pull and start hunting for parts.

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post #8 of 38 Old 04-15-2015, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
disarm6565
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UPDATE: Holy U-Joints Batman!!!

My last post was almost two weeks ago because I finally completed my driveshaft restore today. It started with me replacing the worn u-joint attached to the rear pinion (the easy one). I ordered a single u-joint off your friendly, biggest, 2-day shipping, online retailer. It arrived two days later. I rented a ball joint press (I didn't have a table vice at the time) and attempted to replace it. Having not worked with CV style shafts before it became a bit of a challenge, which ended with me snapping the pins inside the end cap.


I figured this to be a good opportunity to remove all rust, paint the shaft, and replace all greaseable joints. I'm doing everything else to the Jeep in the coming months, why not start with this project? To begin, your friendly, biggest, 2-day shipping, online retailer took 8 days to deliver the new Spicer joints. In the meantime, I sanded the shaft down to bare metal and gave it the ol' rattle can treatment.




Here are all the ways that I screwed up while putting this back together.
1. I broke another u-joint at the end and had to pick one up from Carquest. Apparently they are the only ones to carry Spicer brand.
2. The first time I put it together, I forgot about the spring in the middle of the CV joint.
3. The second time I put it together, I didn't pay attention to the zirk fittings for the greasable joints. On Spicer 5-153x they are on either side of the face of the joint. If you install these incorrectly (oriented to the wrong side), you cannot fit a grease gun onto the zirk, even with the shaft removed. I also broke the last end cap and decided to take the whole thing apart again.
4. After correcting this, I forgot to install the entire center joint (including the spring).

The final attempt at putting everything together went flawlessly. I really believe the trick is to push the first end cap into the the bore almost completely and slide the cross into it at that point. Push the opposing end cap in 1/2 way and slide the cross into that one. If you did this correctly, the cross should be in both bearings simultaneously to prevent bearing damage. If not, "tap" it with a BFH. Also, don't forget to pack each bearing with grease before pushing it onto the cross, this really helps a lot.

And now we reach the fairy tale ending. After everything was completed my driveshaft looks beautiful. I took the Jeep for a test drive to return my ball joint press to Autozone. And then, to the Spray'n'Wash to rinse out all the pollen that has accumulated in the two weeks that the Jeep was sitting. After a fresh wash, everything was running and looking immaculate. I sat on the giant hill exiting the carwash to let the water run out of my drain plugs and then BAM!!! rear-ended by a Camaro. He needs new paint, hood, and fender and headlight. I escaped with one of his green paint flakes on my bumperette. I dusted it off and then went and got a sandwich. This has started out to be quite the experience, hopefully not an omen.

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post #9 of 38 Old 04-15-2015, 07:37 AM
edno51
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I can't believe that you are wasting so much time and money on such a POS
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post #10 of 38 Old 04-15-2015, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
disarm6565
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Thanks dad.

1993 4.0 AX-15
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post #11 of 38 Old 04-15-2015, 03:15 PM
edno51
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Lol

Anything for my second born male offspring. If you need any more encouragement, let me know. Glad to help.
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post #12 of 38 Old 04-15-2015, 05:44 PM
imstillatwork
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Location: Oregon Coast
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That shaft should have came apart easier than that.
I'm afraid that if you broke the ujoint, you may have bent the yoke 'ears' also. Keep an eye on it after it's running again. If it eats up ujoints for lunch, you know what the problem is.
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post #13 of 38 Old 04-15-2015, 07:29 PM
1991YJisLife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disarm6565 View Post
All fender flares are off now. I will try to respond to individual replies as best as possible.

Thank you geusy, we learn from our mistakes and as long as your mantra is "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right," then no harm done.

Michaelgoesrawr, I may need some help, I'm also happy to work on any repairs you may need (I have tools and time).

So the last fender flare finally came off. I had to grind the bolt with the rounded nut.
Looks like we have the same wheels. If you want to restore them and make them shine, some aluminum foil, water and rubbing will make them good as new! Great looking jeep BTW. That driveshaft looks brand new!
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post #14 of 38 Old 04-15-2015, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
disarm6565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1991YJisLife View Post
Looks like we have the same wheels. If you want to restore them and make them shine, some aluminum foil, water and rubbing will make them good as new! Great looking jeep BTW. That driveshaft looks brand new!
My wheels are actually chrome plated and 1 or 2 of them is starting to peel from the center cap, outward. I'm not really sure what to do with them at the moment.

1993 4.0 AX-15
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post #15 of 38 Old 04-16-2015, 12:27 PM
1991YJisLife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disarm6565 View Post

My wheels are actually chrome plated and 1 or 2 of them is starting to peel from the center cap, outward. I'm not really sure what to do with them at the moment.
Interesting, guess I've never seen that. What do you mean by peeling? Mine had a good amount of rust on them around the center cap and other spots on the rim. Now they look pretty good!
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