1993 2.5L Jeep Wrangler Build/5.2L Swap - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 04-16-2012, 10:11 AM   #91
bmgadg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynfw100 View Post
Just curious because We've had this big long discussion on how we're going to 1. get the drivetrain into the vehicle 2. Weld the motor mounts 3. make sure everything is spaced evenly. How can you bolt the motor mounts on?

We have 2 different plans. My father's is where we put the Transmission in the Jeep, tow the Jeep to a place across town, have the engine in the back of the vehicle and have them crank the engine up and place it in and weld from there. - I don't like this idea because basically you have to 'Guess' with the transmission, and completely defeats the idea of spacing the motor how I want.

Or my idea, is having a Engine Cherry Picker put at least the transmission bolted to the engine on (at my house), Put it in, space it out check clearences and either mark where the mounts need to be welded, or have them tacked in, and then drive across town to have some real welds put in. - I like this idea, because that way we can space everything out, and we don't have to guess where the transmission has to go initially.

The biggest thing is, we don't have enough power to run a welder out where we live.
Here's how I did it...

Connected the trans to the motor on the ground, lifted it up with cherry picker, tilted rear downward and lowered it in slowly while adjusting the tilt. It slid right in, and I did this by myself.

I used a floor jack with a 2x6 on top to sit under the oil pan and used shims on either side of the pan to level everything up. I used another jack under the trans to lift it enough to bolt in the belly skid, then loosely bolted the trans mount through the stock slots in the skid. This positioned the engine just right front-to-back. I was a little concerned it was too far back at first, but it really sits in the perfect location. If you leave the trans mount bolts loose, you can make left-to-right position adjustments.

I bolted the new motor mounts to the block just like they would be at the end, and then made left-to-right and height adjustments as needed. Just make sure you don't position the motor too high where it hits the hood. Fyi, the vertical position I used put the bottom of the mounts sticking down below the frame slightly, maybe an inch or so.

The mounts I used had bolt holes drilled in them for bolting to the frame, but you'd have to drill holes through the frame too. I would get everything where you want it, then tack weld it in. Then you can unbolt the mounts from the block and finish burning in the welds. I wouldn't fool with drilling holes through the frame.

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Unread 04-16-2012, 04:31 PM   #92
Rynfw100
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I'm thinking of doing it that way ^^. and just towing it to have my neighbor weld it all after placement.

Anyways, I'm going to pick up a cherry picker today, and I need to know what size the bolts are that hold the Flywheel and Clutch in? Do you recollect on what size they are, or am I gonna just have to try and match one up and get all new ones?
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Unread 04-18-2012, 04:49 PM   #93
Rynfw100
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Can someone take a picture of the starter and it's mounting location? I figure I will have a better idea tomorrow, once I start putting stuff together tomorrow I'll have a better idea of what's going on.

Anybody have an idea on the size of the bolts that mount the Flywheel and Clutch?

Getting the flywheel resurfaced tomorrow, engine on the hoist, connect the flywheel if I can find the right bolts ^^^ and clutch. Put the new bellhousing on the transmission.
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Unread 04-19-2012, 12:04 PM   #94
Que89YJ
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Try this:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...K4qugQelovXdBA
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Unread 04-21-2012, 11:13 PM   #95
Rynfw100
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Thanks, I found out where it goes... just need to find the right sized bolts now.

For anybody doing this swap in the future, here's some things to use: Go to dodgeforum.com and look in the forums for the FSM and Part catalogs for your vehicle. They have downloadable .PDF files that are awesome. They help you find out where stuff goes, and it tells you what size bolts you need.

HOWEVER, the PC doesn't tell you the size of the 6 bolts that connect your flywheel to your crankshaft, and if you reference the part number to the dealership, it's ~$13 per bolt. By trial and error, I found that 6 - 7/16 x 1" fine thread grade 8 bolts will work. That will save somebody $70 bucks.

Update: Got the engine on the engine hoist, which I bought for $50.00 . I got the motor mounts on the block, which was a pain lining up the bolt holes with the spacer... after about 15 minutes of trying to do it gently, the BFH came to the rescue.

Got the flywheel resurfaced, bolted on to the crank, along with the clutch and pressure plate attached to the flywheel. And lastly got the new to me bellhousing attached to the AX-15, and new throwout bearing attached.

I think Monday I will pick up a new starter, CPS and get that transmission attached to the block. Hopefully by Thursday-Saturday I will get the engine/transmission placed where I want it in the Jeep.
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Unread 04-23-2012, 06:10 PM   #96
Rynfw100
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Got the Engine and Transmission waiting to be mated.

The starter was an obvious find... and let it be know that the bolts that came with the Motor Mounts from Advanceadapters fit the bill for bolting the starter to the bellhousing.

Got the new CPS, Starter, and Transmission mount today. So there is nothing more I need to buy to get it started.

I'm going to work for the next two days, so I will try Thursday morning to get the Engine and Transmission together. If not, Friday afternoon they will be and Saturday comes getting it all placed and fitted in.
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

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Unread 04-28-2012, 08:45 PM   #97
Rynfw100
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Well, I didn't get as far as I wanted to this weekend.


I got my 23 Spline inputs this weekend. So I decided to do the SYE and swap the input. Let me tell you, invest in a good set of Snap ring pliers. There were none locally, so I picked up a meaty set of Retaining ring pliers. Took me about 30 minutes on 1 snap ring.



Swapping the inputs was the easiest thing that I did with the transfer case. After getting everything in the front half set, I started on the SYE.

It makes things about 100x harder when 1, the Rugged Ridge SYE kit I got was pretty messed up, which I didn't realize until after I got the tailshaft in. The kit I got was missing the Speedo-gear that you use snap-rings to retain, and the threaded end of the tail-shaft was smashed and had boogered threads. Only the first 2 threads luckily. So I'm gonna wait until Monday, and call the distributor I got it through first, and then if they fail to get me what I need, then I'll talk to Rugged Ridge.



Picture that makes me feel better about this thing... Still disgruntled.

On a lighter note. I got the transmission mated on the Engine.

TONS OF WIGGLING REQUIRED!



Fits like they were meant to be together. But I got the new to me transmission mount bracket today, which is good, so I'll throw that on during the week, with the new mount.



And I finally got the Viscous Fan drive off today. Took:
1. PB Blaster
2. Pipe Wrench
3. Clamp Pliers
4. Long Bar for extra torque

And it popped right off.

I figure that sometime next weekend, probably Thursday, Friday, or Saturday I will get the Engine/Tranny Fitted in, and hopefully welded in. I will get a hold of Jeephut and Rugged Ridge to finish up the Transfercase on Monday, and after that we will see.

This next part is going to be on Input shafts and gear changes:

When I took the input shaft out from my Transfercase which was made in 92, I immediately took it into the house and compared the gear cuts to the Shafts that I had, and had just received.

The Early gear cuts have a much more "dull" cut that the Later style, which have a sharper appearance to them. Lo-and-Behold, the 23 spline input shaft from a NP249 that I thought was a late style, actually turned out to be an early gear cut. The one on the Right has the early gear cut (NP249) and the left has the early gear cut (got from junk yard).



The yard that sent me the shafts actually sent me two of them, one with early and one with late gear cuts. The long input shaft that is in my transmission luckily had the early style gear cut, so that's the one I used. But I now have 3 inputs and 1 early style planetary (Stolen from the NP249 )

1 has the 23 spline, late style cut with a medium shaft, 1 has the 23 spline, early style gear cut short shaft. And lastly my 21 spline input early style short shaft. If anybody doing a swap has any questions or wants one of these elusive 23 spline shafts, let me know

Have a great rest of your weekend.
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

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Unread 04-30-2012, 10:12 AM   #98
bmgadg
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Looks good!
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Unread 05-05-2012, 07:02 PM   #99
Rynfw100
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Ok, so I posted on your thread bmgadg, and I will continue it here.

Basically, when I set my motor in, I positioned it so I wouldn't have to make any changes to the transmission. Now, the issue is, I have the advance adapter's Motor mounts and I can't figure out where to put the brackets that you weld on because the motor mounts hang too low.



Here's the Passenger side:


And the Driver's side:


If anyone has a picture of their motor mounts that are from advance adapters and how they mounted it onto the frame that would be most appreciated.

The motor itself sits pretty parallel, so I was wondering if I would just hack up the welded brackets, and space it from there, and just make some supports on the bottom part of the frame to give the mounts a little more meat to hang onto? OR, do I just jack the motor itself up a little more causing the angle to look something like this (but not as extreme):

(Front bumper) Engine tilted like this --> \

Does raising the front of the engine higher cause any issues with oil pickup or anything?

Can't do much until Monday, or until somebody posts a picture.

Thanks in advanced!
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

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Unread 05-05-2012, 08:40 PM   #100
stoveguy01
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that is the main reason I prefer the novak mounts they give alot more adjustability and work alot nicer
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Unread 05-05-2012, 08:48 PM   #101
SnowdogMarc
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I used the AA mounts for my V6 swap and just flushed the top to the rail. I also used the AX-15 with the AA belhousing adapter. Everything lined up and worked for me.
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Unread 05-07-2012, 09:03 AM   #102
bmgadg
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Ok I tried with my fantastic photoshop skills to illustrate how the mounts should look. They should be level with the mounts on engine side, not level to the ground.

Your motor needs to come up a couple inches. My mount is flush with the top of the frame on the back side, and a little below the top on the front side. Here's a visual approximation...


Also looks like you need to rotate it to the left. The mounts should be at the same height on both sides. I actually located mine about an inch farther to the right to link up the yoke on the axle a little better (I swapped to an 8.8 which has a slightly offset pinion). I would line yours up evenly on both sides.


Hope this helps!
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Unread 05-08-2012, 03:37 PM   #103
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgadg View Post
Ok I tried with my fantastic photoshop skills to illustrate how the mounts should look. They should be level with the mounts on engine side, not level to the ground.

Your motor needs to come up a couple inches. My mount is flush with the top of the frame on the back side, and a little below the top on the front side. Here's a visual approximation...


Also looks like you need to rotate it to the left. The mounts should be at the same height on both sides. I actually located mine about an inch farther to the right to link up the yoke on the axle a little better (I swapped to an 8.8 which has a slightly offset pinion). I would line yours up evenly on both sides.


Hope this helps!


Ok, I think I got it. I rotated it and lifted it up. I've got C-clamps holding the brackets on and marked it all off with sharpie, just in-case something happens. The engine itself is sitting level with the body, because the first time trying to level it out, I got it level with the ground, and not the frame . I'm pretty happy with where it is now, as long as there will be no problems with having the engine angled like this:



I'm going to pull the drivetrain out on Thursday, get the brackets welded in, and we will go from there, getting the vacuum lines and accessories back on the engine and what-not.

I had to send my Rugged Ridge SYE back because there was no helping that tailshaft. So hopefully I'll get that by next week and I can start measuring out drive-shaft lengths.

I know you did this while simultaneously going spring over bmgadg, but does it look like your front drive shaft is really close to your starter? When I lifted the engine, it gave a little more clearance, but it looks to be tight.

I think I'm going to notch my Skid like you did, since the t-case will be sitting further back then originally with the AX5.

We shall see though. Have a good week everyone
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

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Unread 05-09-2012, 10:10 AM   #104
bmgadg
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Looks A-OK to me. Tack weld the mounts to the frame to hold the position before you pull the motor back out. I'm not sure about the starter clearance because I had already done the soa.
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Unread 05-09-2012, 11:38 AM   #105
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgadg View Post
Looks A-OK to me. Tack weld the mounts to the frame to hold the position before you pull the motor back out. I'm not sure about the starter clearance because I had already done the soa.
Maybe it's all the reason I need to go SOA
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

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