1993 2.5L Jeep Wrangler Build/5.2L Swap - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 02-13-2012, 07:44 PM   #31
Rynfw100
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Started Tearing her down, mostly getting it on the engine stand, and marking/labeling, the wires that I could on the remaining harness, just in case I need help with the one I'm getting.



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Unread 02-14-2012, 02:11 PM   #32
bmgadg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynfw100 View Post
Gonna wait until Tuesday, and purchase a rebuild kit for the engine. Anybody have a good priced one that they're happy with?
I bought a Enginetech Master Kit. Includes everything including cam and lifters. I probably could have gotten away with less, but I figured why not do it all while I'm in there. At the very least, have a automotive machinist check out the block and heads to make sure they're in spec. The Enginetech Re-Main Kit is sufficient if everything checks out. There's a special tool to do cam bearings, so I had the machinist install them for me after he bored the cylinders.

Keep the updates coming
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Unread 02-14-2012, 03:01 PM   #33
Rynfw100
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Saweet, I'll check them out.

In other news, I got my wiring harness today in the mail.Took me about 20 minutes to get all of the tape that had literally covered the box. There was more tape in weight than wiring harness.
It looks to be in good shape, and it has connectors that resemble the ones in bmgadg's build, and like the half harness I have out in the yard.



I'm going to start studying wiring diagrams on peoples' builds, just so I have a starting idea on what I'm doing. I was going to pull some more things on the engine this afternoon before work, however, Arizona decided to bless everyone in Tucson and surrounding areas with snow on Valentine's Day, and I hate cold.

Buying the engine rebuild is going to have to wait until the government decides to put money into my account for my tax refund

If all goes well this week, I suspect I will have the heads and block out and on their way to a machinist sometime by this weekend or early next week.
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Unread 02-17-2012, 04:26 PM   #34
Rynfw100
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Update: I've got all the accessories off of the block, being lazy right now, still need to take the Rocker-arms and pushrods off, so then I can take the heads off. One of the bolts for the exhaust manifolds snapped off in the head, so I need that taken out. After that I will figure out my next plan of action.

When you guys took your block/heads to the machine shop, what did you guys all have done? It's very pricey for most machine shops near here to do the lower end rebuild, even when I'm supplying the parts. Is there just specific jobs you guys had done, and then re-assembled everything at home?

Edit: I ordered a pair of Center Dump manifolds from Summit Racing, due to issues with the firewall. Received my ECU in the mail this past week, and am getting ready to order the transmission bell housing from a mid 90's v6 Dakota. What years will work for the bell housing?
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Unread 02-18-2012, 09:20 PM   #35
Rynfw100
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Block Tore down. Just getting ready for a machine shop.



Figured I'd take a snap shot of the accessories and such, took up an entire table, under it (pushrods, rockerarms, and the things that hold the lifters in) and the ladder next to it.




My last question still stands. I plan on having a machinist look at the block, bore it .20 over for the pistons/rings, have them do the camshaft, bearings, plugs, and other little things. But I plan on doing the rest in order to bring down cost.

Hopefully I'm not talking to myself
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Unread 02-20-2012, 08:43 AM   #36
Que89YJ
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92 to 96 v6 Dakota. No you arent just talking to yourself! LOL
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Unread 02-21-2012, 01:23 PM   #37
bmgadg
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Just get the machine shop to check the cylinders and the deck, and also get them to check for warpage in the heads. It will save you a ton of money if you can just hone the cylinders and re-use the pistons. Get a set of valve seals and clean up the valves. If everything is still within tolerances, you won't need to bore, deck, or shave anything. I'm assuming you have roller lifters too, so you won't need to replace the cam or lifters (which I did). Save the moola for other goodies!

I over spent on the machine work (around $600 seems like), but I was overly cautious. If I had it to do over again, I would have done the bare minimum. But keep in mind my jeep is a toy, not a daily driver.
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Unread 02-21-2012, 02:21 PM   #38
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgadg View Post
Just get the machine shop to check the cylinders and the deck, and also get them to check for warpage in the heads. It will save you a ton of money if you can just hone the cylinders and re-use the pistons. Get a set of valve seals and clean up the valves. If everything is still within tolerances, you won't need to bore, deck, or shave anything. I'm assuming you have roller lifters too, so you won't need to replace the cam or lifters (which I did). Save the moola for other goodies!

I over spent on the machine work (around $600 seems like), but I was overly cautious. If I had it to do over again, I would have done the bare minimum. But keep in mind my jeep is a toy, not a daily driver.
It'll still be my daily driver after the entire swap. I got the engine with 103k miles on it, so I figured it would be OK to bore just slightly over. But I plan on having them dip the block, make sure it's OK, not cracked or anything. After that it will depend on sizes and tolerances.

Best case, I'll only have the machine shop change the bearings for the cam, rods, and main, and freeze plugs (some idiot covered one with JB weld). Worst Case I'll have them bore it over, clean it, change all of the above plus pistons and the rings. I got quoted $1200 for everything, including a valve job on the heads, removing a snapped bolt on the passenger side head, a resurfacing, and they'll even throw in a crank clean and polish .

But we will see. Does anybody have a wiring diagram that they have written/drawn for splicing? It's a 1993 2.5l Jeep harness & a 1994 5.2L Dodge harness. I'm stupid when it comes to this kind of stuff.
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Unread 02-22-2012, 01:27 PM   #39
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Sounds like a decent deal to me, I forgot to add in the crank service. I think there's a few diagrams from moparfreak in my thread. You're best source for wiring info is the factory service manuals, they're essential.
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Unread 02-24-2012, 12:46 PM   #40
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Update:

The block and heads are at the machine shop, so the wait for that begins. Hopefully nothing is cracked

After lunch, I'll grab some stuff to clean the rest of the parts that I couldn't take a pressure washer to.

And I have a 94 3.9 Dodge Dakota Bellhousing being shipped.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 10:21 PM   #41
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Still waiting to hear from the machine shop on the condition of the block and heads.

But, I've been busy buying stuff up.

SYE, Conversion 3 Row radiator, Relays and switches for an electric fan, odds and ends. EDIT: AA motor mounts, Pilot Bushing, Flywheel

The Following is my Part/Price checklist (If anything is wrong, let me know):

Waiting a little till I buy an electric fan $68, CV Driveshaft $60-250(considering buying an XJ front driveshaft), NP231 rebuild kit $105, Starter (should fit a 3.9 bellhousing?) $65 +47 core, Clutch kit for 5.2l $190, Manual Crankshaft Position Sensor $45, and reroute a New Exhaust $500?.

Edit: Found out Block is good, but 1 of the cylinder heads is cracked
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Unread 03-05-2012, 09:38 AM   #42
bmgadg
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> The stock fan does an ok job of cooling. Run it till you can safely afford an electric one.

> I cut down an F350 front shaft for my rear driveshaft. Has CV joint, VERY beefy, and was only about $20 at the junkyard.

> The 92 model 4.0 pilot bushing fit my crank perfectly. Should fit yours too.

> The stock YJ fuel pump is sufficient. No need to swap it out if it isn't broken.

> I forget what starter I bought. Seems like it was a dodge 5.2/5.9 starter. Check my thread though, I think I listed the part number in there.

> $500 for exhaust? Should be more like $50 in my opinion.

Sounds like you have a solid plan. Keep us up to date.
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Unread 03-05-2012, 01:30 PM   #43
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgadg View Post
> The stock fan does an ok job of cooling. Run it till you can safely afford an electric one.

> I cut down an F350 front shaft for my rear driveshaft. Has CV joint, VERY beefy, and was only about $20 at the junkyard.

> The 92 model 4.0 pilot bushing fit my crank perfectly. Should fit yours too.

> The stock YJ fuel pump is sufficient. No need to swap it out if it isn't broken.

> I forget what starter I bought. Seems like it was a dodge 5.2/5.9 starter. Check my thread though, I think I listed the part number in there.

> $500 for exhaust? Should be more like $50 in my opinion.

Sounds like you have a solid plan. Keep us up to date.
The stock fan on the 5.2 is a little messed up, and I've been planning to do an electric fan for awhile. I'm definitely going to look into that F350 Driveshaft . EDIT: What years should I look for?

For the Starter, I checked the part numbers on Autozone's website and they're the same for a 94 1500 5.2 V8 and a 94 Dakota 3.9 V6.

I am curious on the Fuel Pump, if it is powerful enough to fuel a 5.2, is it the Fuel regulator that needs to be changed?

Exhaust is based on guesstimates because I'm sure I'm going to have to reroute everything, and by I, I mean an exhaust shop.

I appreciate the advice, and keep it coming

The Block is getting completely bored over, and what not. I bought another head after the original cracked, only to find out the new to me head was cracked as well. The crack was in the same place, right between the intake and exhaust valves... Bought another one and hopefully it's sound.

In the mean time, I took the Jeep out wheeling this weekend. I can tell ya though, after the engine, the next upgrade is getting some lockers.






First time I've really flexed the suspension after putting new shocks in... Almost stuffed the front.

Hopefully there will be more updates as the engine comes out of the shop.
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Unread 03-07-2012, 11:51 AM   #44
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I think it was an early 90s model f350 4x4. Just look for the double cardan (cv) joint at the transfer case. I did have to get a conversion u-joint to make it mount to the sye on the transfer case, so keep that in mind.

Fuel pump puts out more than enough pressure. The 5.2 regulator will bring the pressure down to what is required by the engine. Since my motor was a 96, it didn't come with a regulator because it was regulated in the tank. I had to swap out the fuel rail for a zj 5.2 rail with the regulator built in. Just run vacuum to it to make it work. Your motor may already have a regulator fuel rail.

I did my own exhaust using sections I ordered from summit and picked up at local parts stores. Probably cost me $50 or so. I did buy a super 44 muffler so that brought up the price some, probably around $100 total.

Sucks about the cracked heads, there's not much you can do with it after it's cracked. Just have to replace.
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Unread 03-16-2012, 08:37 PM   #45
Rynfw100
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Engine is in the machine shop until Tuesday or Wednesday, they're just finishing balancing the engine and assembling the stuff I can't do.

I'm finally tired of my harsh riding suspension, and with some overtime money, I bought 4 new OME 36R springs I got new bushings with them as well, so that will give me a project to work on while I prepare the engine. Now to start PB blasting those suckers.
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

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