1993 2.5L Jeep Wrangler Build/5.2L Swap - Page 13 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 09-02-2013, 01:14 AM   #181
Rynfw100
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
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I changed the Crankshaft position sensor to the MOPAR one this weekend, along with a new fuel filter. Having the same problem with the engine dying without the throttle being fluctuated. It won't stay on unless you open and close the throttle constantly. Also a month ago I properly got the alternator hooked up, checked the Map sensor, etc.


I'm down to two things, either the PCM is bad or the grounds aren't hooked up properly. I'm going to look at the diagrams and see if everything is still copacetic. If not, I'll be in the market for a new computer. BTW, if anyone has a PCM for a 5.2L 318 for a 94-95 Dakota/Ram with a Manual Transmission that they know works, please let me know.

Happy Labor Day

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Unread 09-02-2013, 05:02 AM   #182
Que89YJ
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Did you do the distributor?
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Unread 09-02-2013, 08:00 AM   #183
Que89YJ
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Sorry, I mean to ask if you did the entire distributor or just the pickup? Idle is basically the IAC, temp sensor and the fuel to the rails. Did you ever check to see if the IAC is working? Is the fuel pressure finally holding?
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Unread 09-02-2013, 10:04 AM   #184
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Sorry, I mean to ask if you did the entire distributor or just the pickup? Idle is basically the IAC, temp sensor and the fuel to the rails. Did you ever check to see if the IAC is working? Is the fuel pressure finally holding?
Fuel pressure seems to be fine. I have not messed with the distributor or the cam shaft sensor, as you have to buy the entire assembly and I'm getting good spark, but its something to think about.

The IAC was cleaned, and I've done some research on how to test the IAC, but nothing that I found really said if it was testable.
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Unread 09-02-2013, 10:13 AM   #185
Que89YJ
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YouTube has video. Test the iac movement and pindl switch. I can link you tomorrow. Hit me up with a pm if I forget.
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Unread 09-02-2013, 10:55 AM   #186
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
YouTube has video. Text the iac movement and pindl switch. I can link you tomorrow. Hit me up with a pm if I forget.
Please do, I'm already scouring Youtube for the video, there are some videos that show movement, but they have a special pre-made box of some sort that sends pulses to the IAC which retracts and pushes out the spindle. Is there some sort of test that you could set up at home with a basic set of electronic tools? Those are my favorite

I'm thinking of just removing the IAC, while still plugged into the harness, turning the key into the ON position, check for movement, if nothing, crank, if nothing I should assume it's bad?
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

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Unread 09-03-2013, 08:59 AM   #187
bmgadg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynfw100 View Post
I'm down to two things, either the PCM is bad or the grounds aren't hooked up properly.
A bad PCM would cause weird things to happen. I chose to buy one online that had been tested in a vehicle and had a warranty instead of looking in junk yards. It's the brain of your build, and worth the extra coin to ensure it's working properly.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 09:25 AM   #188
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgadg View Post
A bad PCM would cause weird things to happen. I chose to buy one online that had been tested in a vehicle and had a warranty instead of looking in junk yards. It's the brain of your build, and worth the extra coin to ensure it's working properly.
Do you have a link to their site?
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Unread 09-03-2013, 10:21 AM   #189
bmgadg
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Man it's been a while now, I don't remember exactly who it was. Seems like it may have been someone on eBay that also has an online store. I can dig around a little and probably find you something, but I'd start with doing some google searches for remanufactured PCMs if I were you. That's assuming you've narrowed it down to being a bad PCM, but after reading through your thread it's seeming more and more likely in my opinion.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 06:49 PM   #190
Rynfw100
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Before I give the most recent update, I must give credit where it is due. After speaking on the phone with Que for about 30 minutes, and getting an understanding on certain procedures, I removed the IAC valve and let the son of a gun crank.

After cranking like it had for about 5 seconds, the hole where the IAC valve used to be started sucking air, and the engine started to rev. I blocked the hole with an old credit card, and it began to idle.

So Mr. Que, thank you sir.

Next up, finding where the fault lays for the IAC Valve, so I'm going to test my wiring to make sure the IAC is getting signal. Is there a way I should go about this? I don't see anything in the FSM or on the forums just yet. Depending on the result of this, I will take my next course of action.

But now I no longer have an excuse, so I will save up some money, get the little stuff done here in the next couple of weeks (ie. Fluids, Hoses, Drive Shafts, Master/Slave cylinder, etc.) and try and get this beast road worthy. Cause my daily driver (99 Ford E-350 w/ Extended Top) sucks up alot of gas.
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

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Unread 09-30-2013, 08:50 PM   #191
skyj
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Good for you bud! its good to see all these 5.2 swaps on here lately. Sub'd
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build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/skyj-eccentric-build-1467426/ '90 YJ 5.2 magnum MPI, AX15, NP231 SYE, Dana 30 4.56 open/ 8.8 4.56 detriot locker. 1" shackles
2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 01:42 PM   #192
Que89YJ
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Check to see if the iac moves with either the diagnostic tool. Glad to hear its running.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 02:57 PM   #193
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Check to see if the iac moves with either the diagnostic tool. Glad to hear its running.
Where do I get a diagnostic tool? Any way to check my wiring?
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Unread 10-01-2013, 04:29 PM   #194
Que89YJ
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Use a meter and connect one side to each end of the 4 wires from the iac to the ECU and measure the resistance. Give me a call.
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Unread 10-03-2013, 08:12 PM   #195
Rynfw100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Use a meter and connect one side to each end of the 4 wires from the iac to the ECU and measure the resistance. Give me a call.
I did just this, except I looked for continuity and got it, so the wires are sound. Because I could not find anyone doing this on the YJ forum or the ZJ forum, I'm going to post what I did here.

To test the IAC wires, you plug your multimeter into the IAC connector, and then into the same wire on the ECU/PCM Side. Here's what I came up with:

PCM PLUG
39 - K39 186Y/RD - IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR DRIVER
40 - K40 18BR/WT - IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR DRIVER
59 - K59 18VT/BK - IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR DRIVER
60 - K60 18YL/BK - IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR DRIVER
IAC PLUG
1 - K39 18GY/RD - IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR DRIVER
2 - K60 18YL/BK - IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR DRIVER
3 - K40 18BR/WT - IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR DRIVER
4 - K59 18VT/BK - IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR DRIVER

IAC -> PCM
1 Gray/Red -> 39
2 Yellow/Black-> 60
3 Brown/White-> 40
4 VT/Black-> 59

So for Position 1, the Gray Wire with a Red stripe, I plugged that into the PCM plug at 39, and so forth. Now if I need to measure Resistance, I'll have to do that another night.

Anyways, I got the coolant system finished, minus proper sized hose clamps. I'll get the steering finished tomorrow as well, just need to get tiny hose clamps for the power steering return line, and a longer return line...

If I don't have anything else to check on the IAC wiring before I go and get a new IAC motor, Looking at you Que89YJ , I'll get a new motor.

After all that the only things I need are new fluids for the Tranny/T-Case, Driveshafts, and exhaust... I see the light at the end of the Tunnel
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My 5.2L V8 swap and Jeep build:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1993-2-5l-jeep-wrangler-build-5-2l-swap-1210512
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