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Unread 01-16-2006, 05:27 PM   #1
Golddigger
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1992 jeep wrangler problems

Just bought a 92 wrangler today, been wanting one for my outdoor activites for some time just haven't seen a good one for the money. Saw the one I wanted sunday at a dealers lot and bought it today.

They wanted 3900.00 for it, i got it for 2500.00 after 2 visits : )

Now i know the jeep has some problems but overall looked sound. 2.5L 5speed
It has a hardtop, 1/2 doors with the sliding plexiglass removable top 1/2 of door
aftermarket jensen stereo, cobra CB, clean interior, rhinoliner or something to that effect sprayed all over inside looked good. warn8000i wench fairly new. rear seat had been recovered. exterior is army green in color. and 5 new offraod knobbie tires. was told by a four wheel enthusist i know that it has had a lift it 2.5 or 3" put under it too.

The problems are as follows..

1) transmission pops out of 2nd gear if you let off gas(ammco says 1035.00 to rebuild) also grinds if you downshift into 1st or 2nd

2) check engine light stays on, oil pressure is good, sounded good, good power for a 4 banger. spits and sputters a little at low speed or idle when cold. (fiqure this is an o2 sensor)

3) there was a wire disconnected at the front drive shaft (pass side) on the motor that engages the 4wd, i connected it and the 4wd light on the dash comes on even in 2wH. I dont think the 4wd is engaging. no noises other than what i have heard all day. tried shifting into 4wH and 4wL I can tell in 4wL that im in low(rpm higher) but still dont think all four are turning.

What I would like to know is how I should proceed. was thinking about trying to find a 4.0L with transmission and change out the works...not sure if i want to go carb or keep FI and change computer too, what ever is easier/cheaper.

Or should i just fix the 4wd problem and fix the transmission and fix whatever is casusing the check eng light. stay with the 2.5L

I don't plan to take it mud bogging for thrills, just a little off road maybe in a creek bed or small rocky areas near rivers that i prospect for gold in.

So what do you guys think???? and remember I am a nOoB at this so please take it easy on me

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Unread 01-16-2006, 05:29 PM   #2
RLD831
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I don't know much about your Jeep, but I know you have a YJ not a TJ. The people in the YJ forum would probably be alot more help to you.
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Unread 01-16-2006, 05:30 PM   #3
Jerry Bransford
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I have moved your question to the YJ Wrangler forum. This forum covers '97 and newer TJ Wranglers, the YJ forum is for 95 and older Wranglers that are different.
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Unread 01-16-2006, 05:58 PM   #4
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oops

ooops my bad clicked the wrong forum....ty
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Unread 01-16-2006, 06:02 PM   #5
smokeybear
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1) Downshift grind into 2nd or 1st isn't uncommon. You have to go slower than you think and keep the engine revs up to downshift. Popping out of 2nd when you let off the gas might be as simple as the shifter hitting the body due to a transmission drop kit (if one was installed with the 2.5" lift). Might pull the rubber boot and drive around the block to see if that's happening. If so, a little metal trimming might fix it. Also check your transmission mounts. A bad mount might be letting the t-case/transmission move around too much.

2) The check engine light is on a timer of sorts. After about 83,000 miles or so, it lights up to tell you to get your emissions checked. Dealer can reset it for a bunch of money, otherwise a lot of us just put in a new O2 sensor just in case and pull the light out of the dashboard.

So far so good -- cheap easy fixes if you're lucky. Don't consider the 4.O/transmisison/t-case swap just yet unless you really want to part with a bunch of money. The engine swap especially is a lot more complicated than it sounds.

3) Try putting it into 4-high and turn a tight circle on pavement. If it starts hopping and jerking, your 4wd works. If not, you might need to replace the vacuum hoses that control the front axle disconnect, or maybe replace parts within the disconnect. Lots of folks get a posi-lock replacement ($200 or so) to replace the vacuum system with a cable to the inside of the Jeep for a positive engagement of the front axle. The light may be on just because of a bad sending unit or something. There is lot of information on the front axle workings on the YJ forum if you search. Lots of variations of problems and lots of good cheap fixes.
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Unread 01-16-2006, 06:05 PM   #6
off-road arkie
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I would keep it like it is. there are some (shade tree) machanics that can fix the trans for less money.look around. far as the check light, i would unplug it if it bugged me or just put a piece of duck tape over it . lol. ,that is what the guages are for, welcome to the jeep world. if it is like my jeep it will never be perfect. mine begs for some kindof attention all the time.
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Unread 01-17-2006, 03:20 AM   #7
Golddigger
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thanks for the input

I hope all all is as simple to fix as you have stated, i like the 200.00 kit for the manual 4wd actuator sounds like a good way to go.

Im pretty sure the shifter isnt hitting anything but will remove the boot to see. Im almost positive thats its rebuild time for the transmission. but no biggie probably needs a new clutch anyway doesnt start to engage until near top of pedal. my biggest concern is finding someone to work on it that has good knowledge of Jeeps without haveing to go to the dealer.

replacing shock absorbers this week end and brake inspection, emergncy brake needs adjustment.

thanks for giving me all the input and not the shaft...get it input shaft...ha ha

see ya in the woods
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Unread 01-17-2006, 05:25 AM   #8
mudbugII
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If the shifter is not bumping out of gear because of the boot, it might be a snap ring inside the transmission. Mine did it in 5th gear. Mechanic said the ring was like .75 or something like that. He did the labor for like $250 or so. I'd go to a smaller garage that specializes in transmission repair, not a chain that specializes in rebuilding. It might be something small and easy to fix.
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Unread 01-17-2006, 03:04 PM   #9
Golddigger
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upon further inspection

im gonna have to have a rebuild....no 5th gear at all....., however i knew this going in...on a psoitive note, the problem described earlier about the 4wd light staying on, its just the sensor I'm pretty sure, put in 4wd drove in tight circle jeep hopped, put back in 2wd backed up 30 ft or so, drove another tight circle, no hopping. no i just got to fix the sensor. and Man I can't wait until I can replace those worn shocks this week end.....

also the warn8000i wench has a remote port on it, but the remote did not come with truck, are these readily availible?
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Unread 01-17-2006, 03:36 PM   #10
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Most likely the Jeep is Sage Green Low Gloss Metallic. I wonder if the top is OEM or aftermarket. After markets come with sliding glass uppers but the pervious owner could have bought an OEM top and added the uppers.

The Warn is a Winch not a wench. A Winch is a self-recovery tool. A wench is the lass who would sit in the passenger seat and not on the front of the Jeep. You can get remotes from Warn or you can wire a dash remote.

As for teh transmission, you'd probably be better off getting a new transmission then rebuilding the existing one. Getting one from a late model TJ would give you one that has less mileage on it. You're looking for an AX-5 transmission. A used transmission shouldn't cost more then $500. Probably closer to $300. Then you'd need to change it out. You might also want to do the clutch and thehydraulic bearing while you're there, too.

If the check engine list is on then you should try to recover the error codes stored in the computer. Follow the steps Here and you should be able to get a good idea what's throwing up the code(s).

Honestly, if you're not going to build it up and only use it on creek beds and dirt trails then you would probably be better off fixing what you got rather then doing a engine and transmission swap. This becomes more complicated if you live in an Emission controlled state like CA. To swap engines you'll really need to know what you're doing and have some fabrication skills.

The 4wd system is a bit finiky. The wire you saw is conencted to the axle vacuum disconnect. If the diaphram for the vacuum disconnect is stuck it could be locking your front axle. This does not mean it's in 4wd though. You'll probably want to look look into the disconnect housing (square box on the differential.) and see if it is stuck. If you want to rid yourself of the vacuum disconnect, I'd recommend swapping the axle shafts for XJ or TJ one piece shafts. You'll not only get stronger U-joints but also rid yourself od the disconenct which is not present on current Jeeps. Cost would be able the same as the Posi-Lok cable disconnect.
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Unread 01-17-2006, 04:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
2) The check engine light is on a timer of sorts. After about 83,000 miles or so, it lights up to tell you to get your emissions checked. Dealer can reset it for a bunch of money, otherwise a lot of us just put in a new O2 sensor just in case and pull the light out of the dashboard.
what the hell are you smoking.....
now i have been a mechanic for 7 years now, and have NEVER heard of a check engine light coming on like that.

a check engine light comes on b/c something is WRONG w/ the engine.... either a sensor is out of range, or even a mechanical failure can cause this.
DO NOT IGNORE THIS. you will just cause more harm...
most of the time it is something simple like an o2 sensor being "lazy", or a coolant temp sensor out of range, but dont ignore it. #1 it can cause you to fail your emmissions, and #2 it can cause more EXPENSIVE problems in the long run.
i advise you to retreive the codes stored in your yj's computer, and find out what is wrong, then you can come back on this forum, and find out what might be the cause..
if you go back to the dealer and have it reset, it WILL come back on again if the problem is still there.

some people will try to give you advice, but sometimes it is wrong, that is one thing about posting in forums..
i just dont want you to think it's ok to have a check engine light on, when really ITS NOT!!!!!
get it checked out, it will save you money in the long run.
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Unread 01-17-2006, 04:13 PM   #12
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Check the codes. Turn the key on, off, on, off, and on (leave it in the on position the last time) and the check engine light will start blinking at you, morse code style. codes are separated by long pauses, individual numbers are separated by short pauses. The meanings of the codes are here:
http://www.jeephorizons.com/tech/yj_codes.html
among other places. If you don't have A/C, you'll get code 33 at the end. code 55 signals the end of the code sequence.

Edit: also I don't think the above poster was talking about the 'check engine' light. there are two warning lights, one IS just a mileage activated meaningless light, and the other is the serious one. "check engine" I think is the serious one. I removed my other one years ago so I don't remember what it said . It came on at like 83,000 miles, just like everyone else's. I still have the "check engine" light, which is the one that blinks to allow you to read the codes.
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Unread 01-17-2006, 09:38 PM   #13
smokeybear
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Jipjip

Quoting from the Haynes manual:

"On these models an emission maintenance timer (mounted under the right side of the dashboard) activates the emissions maintenance indicator light on the instrument panel when the oxygen sensor is scheduled for replacement (approximately 82,500 miles). The timer cannot be reset and must be replaced or disconnected to turn out the indicator light." pg 1-34

It also has photo of "the emissions timer" that you claim doesn't exist.

Mine came on a little closer to 83,000 miles. Do some searching and you'll find others discussing the same known indicator lamp and timer.
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Unread 01-17-2006, 09:44 PM   #14
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ok, my bad for coming on so strong. a lot of posts on this forum from people having no idea what they are talking about, just answering posts to up their post counts...

although, this is not the only reason the light will come on, and the codes still should be checked to make sure this was deffinately the problem.

smokeybear, my apologies to you for being so tough on you. obviously you know your stuff
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Unread 01-17-2006, 10:27 PM   #15
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No harm, no foul. You're right, the emissions systems ought to be properly checked to make sure everything is working right. I'm a firm believer in following the recommended maintenance, although I won't take it to a dealer for the work unless it's under warrantee!!
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