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Unread 11-23-2011, 03:32 PM   #1
LonnieD
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sevierville, TN
Posts: 15
1991 Islander Fuel Tank Woes

Replaced leaking tank with new aftermarket. Filler neck will not clear the frame and touches the crossmember above. The new tank is correct model but not exactly identical to OEM. Neck is 1" shorter, tank height is 1" more and length (width? .. axle to axle dimension) is 1 1/2' shorter. Any ideas on a work around? Thanks

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Unread 11-23-2011, 03:51 PM   #2
94chb
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Whitwell, TN
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put driver side of tank up in first then passenger side
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Unread 11-23-2011, 04:12 PM   #3
LonnieD
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Sevierville, TN
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Thanks for the quick reply. I didn't explain my dilemma correctly. I installed the replacement tank and tightened all of the tank/skid plate bolts. That is when I discovered that the filler tube neck was butted up to and its end flush with the crossmember. Can't get a clamp over that neck, much less the filler hose. When I dropped the tank again, the sending unit tubing had rubbed a mark on the undercarriage under the cargo area as well. I am thinking of shimming the skid plate edges and installing longer bolts, but wonder if that will expose the outlet hose and fuel pump electrical to excessive moisture/debris. Thanks again!
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Unread 11-24-2011, 06:11 AM   #4
mrmud4x4
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Rocky Mount, NC
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Are your body bushings squished flat? When I did new daystar body lift bushings that are 1" taller, that gave me easy access to the gas tank fill/vent hose clamps. They were not behind/against the rear frame anymore.
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Unread 11-24-2011, 08:34 AM   #5
LonnieD
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Well ... Duhhh! Thanks mrmud4x4 - that is the answer!! I just ordered the body lift bushings. Old girl has 300K miles on her and the stock bushings are shot. I appreciate the solution and look forward to more advice as we spiff up the YJ.
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Unread 11-24-2011, 09:24 AM   #6
mrmud4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnieD View Post
Well ... Duhhh! Thanks mrmud4x4 - that is the answer!! I just ordered the body lift bushings. Old girl has 300K miles on her and the stock bushings are shot. I appreciate the solution and look forward to more advice as we spiff up the YJ.
Get hold of a 4 or 4.5" grinder (like a Makita) that will accept the cutting disc's......I am pretty sure that you will need to cut out some body metal to get at the top of the bushing bolts. I had to cut three areas.....under the drivers seat, and the two rear ones - hidden behind the rear tire well plastic. Wear safety goggles......

The top bolts have holders in there that will be rusted out.....the nuts/bolts that spin will be the ones that you will have to access on top.....some you can get to, others are under body metal.

We cut flaps, then I cut out some aluminum daimond plate pieces to cover the cut out areas, bend the flaps back and use self tapping screws to mount your daimond plate covers over the cut out area. Use rustoleum spray paint on your cuts first, and some gasket goop when you place the daimond plate covers over the area....
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