1990 Wrangler L6 5spd clutch not releasing - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-07-2009, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
Fastshivy
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1990 Wrangler L6 5spd clutch not releasing

Clutch not releasing.....85K
I just helped a friend replace his clutch, pressure plate, disc and slave cylinder as the slave was leaking and the vehicle was crawling forward. The springs in the disc were also rubbing on the pressure plate?? It is now hard to get in gear and the pedal engages the clutch right at the floor board. The pedal seems fairly firm all the way to the floorboard...it is almost like wow if the pedal would only go another 1/4" everything would be perfect. Bled the system several times to no avail.
I took the master cyl off.. no external leaks, but it it is etched inside the bore...not sure where to go from here...put 80w 90 GL5 back in the tranny and was told there was some controversy on this particular fluid

How do I identify the tranny? it is a 5 spd with the fill holes on the driver side(left)and has the internal slve cyl.

What oil should I use?

Any suggestions on getting a little more travel on the clutch?
Any help would be appreciated

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post #2 of 13 Old 11-07-2009, 11:35 AM
4.7stroker
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OK the tranny is an AX15 the engine is an I6 if the engine is a I4 then the tranny is an AX5.
10-30 motor oil is just fine for the tranny. If everything else is new then drop a new master cyl in there and see what it does.

Dwayne
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post #3 of 13 Old 11-09-2009, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
Fastshivy
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Thanks for the response....I just replaced the master cyl and bled the system again. This did not resolve the problem. You can feel the throw out bearing contacting the pressure plate very quickly.....in other words the clutch pedal begins to get stiff within "3/4 of an inch as you put your foot down on it. So it seems I am getting good travel from the hydraulics. The old clutch released fine....just had a leaky slave

The clutch came from O'reilys.....made in china stuff.... any other ideas before i pull the tranny again?
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-09-2009, 03:38 PM
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-09-2009, 04:07 PM
navman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.7stroker View Post
Did you happen to put the clutch friction disk in backwards?

Dwayne
If you used a direct replacement I would agree with Dwayne. If you went to a diferent style, you may not have enough throw. Try pulling the master/hose/slave assembly as one piece and bleed it on the bench with the slave a bit higher and the master at a bit of an angle to get all the air out. The allen bleader is a pita.
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post #6 of 13 Old 11-09-2009, 04:24 PM
Smash209
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Its been said, but if the springs are ribbing the plate you defiantly put the disc in backwards!

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post #7 of 13 Old 11-09-2009, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
Fastshivy
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Maybe I did...although it was marked clearly flwheel side near the splines...I am not sure you can even tighten the pressure plate down with the disc in backwards. It was a direct relacement... no mods. The original disc coil springs were rubbing on the diaphram fingers... although it did not seem to cause problems. I guess I am resigned to pulling the tranny tomorrow. I have done a couple hundred clutches (mostly, British and Japanese), but it has been 25 yrs and your mind gets rusty and feeble...Thanks will keep you posted
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post #8 of 13 Old 11-10-2009, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Just pulled the tranny... no leaks on the slave, disk and pressure plate in right. The surface of the new pressure plate has a slight lip on the edge where the grinding stone did an incomplete job....right now I am calling it bad parts. We are going to try Napa although some of their stuff is poor quality too, just depends where it is made!!
It seems to me a country that can not build a sucessful car has no business making parts....sorry for the rant
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-20-2009, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
Fastshivy
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Just a follow up....finally got the tranny back in everything is working perfectly!! Just bad parts the parts store man said they just switched manufactures on clutches...wonder why??? Took a little searching to find a clutch I was happy with...Ordered one from Napa and sent it back cheap.... chinese stuff ....Found one made in USA and Korea from Beck Arnely...much better quality than the local parts stores sell. The Koreans at least are building a decent car. Had a little trouble removing the pilot bearing... the grease or paper method don't work well with a bearing as the grease shoots outside the bearing race..like packing a bearing...found a little tool from Cal Van that worked well and can be used on many different cars with small bearings/bushings $18 bucks well worth it for the time saved Thanks to all for your help!
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post #10 of 13 Old 11-20-2009, 07:14 AM
larrysmachine
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I had the same problem with my 90 yj, bad slave. Went to o'rielys and boudht the complete clutch kit for $135 and put the jeep back together and the new slave didn't work. Pulled it all apart again and went to NAPA and paid $135 for just a new salve and put it back together and it worked great. I guess you get what you pay for. It's NAPA for me from now on.
Larry
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post #11 of 13 Old 11-20-2009, 07:31 AM
4.7stroker
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Just another example why everyone should convert to external slave when clutch work is performed.

Dwayne
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post #12 of 13 Old 11-20-2009, 09:28 AM
larrysmachine
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Dwayne,

Is this a tough job to do? I would like to do this the next time I have to drop the tranny.

Larry
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post #13 of 13 Old 11-20-2009, 09:50 AM
4.7stroker
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Pretty easy conversion.
You will need
External slave bell housing
bearing retainer
throwout bearing & fork
slave/master.
All of these parts can be found at your local u-pull it on the Cherokee 94 n up I believe.

Dwayne
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