1988 yj new 32/36DGEV installed and flooding - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-17-2012, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
slimeymike
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Land O' Lakes
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1988 yj new 32/36DGEV installed and flooding

Hey y'all I'm a new member to this forum and this is my first post. I have viewed this site for several months and found the answers to most of my questions without posting I am amazed of the outflow of information and comradery that is shown its members. Anyway my problem is I installed a new weber 32/36DGEV kit#k551 on a1988 258 this motor is a fresh rebuild I used a Mr. Gasket fpr. set at 3psi I started the motor right up it warmed up I adjusted timing 9deg btdc 700-800 rpm check base line settings on carb. I had to let it sit for a few days and when I started it back up after about 30 sec. it flooded like the float needle was stuck open. Since this has happened I changed the FPR to a holley 12-804 with a pressure gauge and the only time I get a reading on the gauge is when I block off the line to the carb. it reads about 3psi I have removed the fuel tank cleaned it checked the vent lines and return line no blockage new filter with bypass at 12 oclock new float and needle ***. adjusted float level to specs and tried setting it at a lower level with no luck. Could a defective power valve be the problem? Any advice would be appreciated

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post #2 of 9 Old 09-17-2012, 01:51 PM
Jims-87YJ
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lansdale, Pa 19446
Posts: 700
Hello and welcome, I am by no means the expert on this but here is my 2 cents... I have been running the 32/36 for about 5 years on the stock fuel pump and NO FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). It sure sounds like the float is sticking? I don't see you mention that the Fuel filter was changed? Someone else should chime in with other options. Good luck.

1987 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36, HEI, Custom Sound bar, Hardtop/Sun-rider/bikini tops, 2" Lift, 1/2" Boomerangs, 1" Body & MM Lift. 32x11.5x15 Copper STT's on Black Rock 950 Lobos w/4" backspacing, Still need Front Bumper and Seats.

My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/m...hread-1137667/
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post #3 of 9 Old 09-17-2012, 02:25 PM
doweller
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: cpc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimeymike View Post
Hey y'all I'm a new member to this forum and this is my first post. I have viewed this site for several months and found the answers to most of my questions without posting I am amazed of the outflow of information and comradery that is shown its members. Anyway my problem is I installed a new weber 32/36DGEV kit#k551 on a1988 258 this motor is a fresh rebuild I used a Mr. Gasket fpr. set at 3psi I started the motor right up it warmed up I adjusted timing 9deg btdc 700-800 rpm check base line settings on carb. I had to let it sit for a few days and when I started it back up after about 30 sec. it flooded like the float needle was stuck open. Since this has happened I changed the FPR to a holley 12-804 with a pressure gauge and the only time I get a reading on the gauge is when I block off the line to the carb. it reads about 3psi I have removed the fuel tank cleaned it checked the vent lines and return line no blockage new filter with bypass at 12 oclock new float and needle ***. adjusted float level to specs and tried setting it at a lower level with no luck. Could a defective power valve be the problem? Any advice would be appreciated
here is my one and half cents: I have the same set up. first of all, I only get a reading on the pressure gauge at time of start up ONLY at start up on a cold start. Second: took my beast forever to start!! I then change to a one in and one out fuel filter. I did not use the fuel return line. so no fuel drains out of carb and it starts EVERY time on first crank!! This might be some of your issues.
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post #4 of 9 Old 09-17-2012, 03:21 PM
90DesertTanYJ
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Jacksonville
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I have a Weber DGEV which is a little diffrent but the same PITA. I need to jet down on it because it runs rich as well. My YJ was constantly flooding, giving me a hard time, long crank, then would barely run. First question is, have you Nuttered the ignition side yet? You hafta take the ECU out of the loop as it is trying to adjust your timing and non existent BBD. Once you take the BBD out of the loop, you can actually get rid of all the ECU related stuff and 98% of the vacuum crap. All that crap is there to run the BBD and ignition and "improve" emissions. The timing at 9* should work fine. This solved most of my problems. I also had an ICM issue as well and you may be experiencing the same thing. I had relocated mine higher up on the fender and the extra shaking around caused an intermittent problem with a bad internal connection to become common and more obvious. Changed the ICM and it runs like a top and fires up instantly without giving it any gas.

Anyway, do the Nutter and get back with us.
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-17-2012, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
slimeymike
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Location: Land O' Lakes
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Thanks for your quick response. I don't believe this is an ECU issue. ECU's were on 1990 & 91 models. They had a microcomputer unit MCU on 1987-89 models. It looks like all this has been eliminated by a previous owner. It basically has a coil and a distributor with an electronic pick up. I really believe it's a carburetor issue. When I pinch the fuel line off between the carburetor & the fuel pressure regulator it runs fine until the carburetor bowl runs dry.

Thanks again for your response,
Mike
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-17-2012, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
slimeymike
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Thanks for your 2 cents. I have a new fuel filter, stock type with one line in and two lines out with a return line disconnected and opening mount set at 12 o'clock. I installed a new fuel pump and I have tried running without the fuel pressure regulator and with it and it floods just the same.

Thanks again,
Mike
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-18-2012, 04:41 AM
90DesertTanYJ
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Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 749
Well if the carb is flooding like you say, either the fuel pressure is overwhelming the needle valve or the needle valve//float is bad. There are a lot of "farmed out" Webers out there that I understand do not have the same high quality specs as an actual Weber. Does yours have Weber cast into it somewhere or does it have a red W sticker on it? Empi makes quite a few of these and that isnt necessarily a bad thing, just not as high quality. Sounds like the carb has issues, like you didnt know this already.
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-18-2012, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
slimeymike
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Land O' Lakes
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carb. came from carbsunlimited it is distributed by; redline packaged in USA has weber cast on top of float chamber who knows if its the real deal or a not to spec reproduction I could not find a red sticker but there are three baby blue dots on the round raised spots next to the weber emblem Lord! I hope this doesn't mean reject.Thanks for the input I'm back to adjusting foat level Mike
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post #9 of 9 Old 09-18-2012, 06:23 PM
90DesertTanYJ
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As log as it has Weber cast into it your golden.
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