1988 YJ Front Calipers sticking - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 25 Old 09-26-2011, 07:50 AM
jbolty
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Do not use teflon tape on brake fittings. If the fitting is leaking it's either cross threaded or it was over tightened and the flare crushed off the end of the tube.


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post #17 of 25 Old 09-26-2011, 09:25 AM
worleysc
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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I have the same problem with my 89. I suspect it's the POS proportioning valve that is bad and not allowing the fluid to flow back, as it should. At first, mine was just one side sticking, and then Saturday they both stuck. I will be replacing it with an aftermarket adjustable valve, as I plan to upgrade to rear disk soon. Less than $100. I've tried everything else, but without success. I'm positive it's not in the lines. Opinions and advice are always welcomed.
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post #18 of 25 Old 09-26-2011, 10:24 AM
hdfxrs91
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
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The timing of this thread is something. I think my proportioning valve is going, too. My left rear wheel (drum brakes) locks up on me with normal braking, plus I'm getting a pull to the left, which may just be a bad caliper.
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post #19 of 25 Old 09-26-2011, 11:51 AM
Lemoore-on
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdfxrs91 View Post
The timing of this thread is something. I think my proportioning valve is going, too. My left rear wheel (drum brakes) locks up on me with normal braking, plus I'm getting a pull to the left, which may just be a bad caliper.

Ditto! I was troubleshooting a sticking passenger side this weekend. Pulled hard to the left under braking & right hand wheel was hot when I stopped.

I put on some steel braided lines because I already had them and of course it didn't help. I am going to replace both calipers tonight. If that dont do it I'll look into the porp valve.


(Hours later......) Calipers fixed my problem
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post #20 of 25 Old 09-30-2011, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
UncleDave
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: caledonia
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Let me recap from the very beginning:

The first issue I had was sticking front brakes so I replaced the calipers.
The next issue was the rear drum brakes dragging. When I initially broke them down several parts fell out (same parts, both sides). The PO had put a drum kit in but didn't connect the self adjusting lever/screw/spring combination correctly. Now, I am not a mechanic so I wasn't sure exactly how to piece it all back together. After much time and searching this forum and others (and almost poking my own eye out with a pair of needle-nose pliers - safety first) I finally found a picture that showed the correct assembly. I also decided to replace the wheel cylinders while I was in there.

That freed up the rear-end, but now the front was sticking again. Everyone I asked pointed me to the brake lines so I replaced them but the calipers where still sticking. I decided to replace the master cylinder, because there just weren't many things left to replace at this point. While doing that I realized the the adjusting rod seemed to be pressing on the piston in the MC before it was even completely seated. Backed off and that and now the calipers are no longer sticking.

So now the front is free and the rear is free, but the pedal is very soft and will go to the floor.

We realized that we didn't bench bleed the MC as well as we should have so we went through that process and then re-bled the entire system. Still, the brakes are soft.

After one more Google search, and a threat from my wife to take it to the brake shop if I didn't get it fixed SOON, we finally came across what I am hoping is the final solution: the rear drums.

You know how sometimes when you continue to do something over and over and over again that it just becomes routine? Well, while trying to figure out how to assemble the self-adjusting lever/screw/spring I had taken the rear brakes apart so many times that when I finally got it right, I didn't think to adjust them properly. The pedal was soft because the rear drum brakes where not making contact. We adjusted them out and the pedal immediately got better. They weren't perfect but much better. I took it down the road at about 50mph and stood on the brakes - I was very happy with how well it stopped.

I took it home and adjusted it a little more. Unfortunately, I have been able to drive it since then, (whole other issue), but I will this weekend.

I THINK we finally have this issue resolved. If not, I'll let you know what the brake shop says because that is where it is going next.
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post #21 of 25 Old 09-30-2011, 11:21 AM
oldtime_ironman
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleDave View Post
Let me recap from the very beginning:

The first issue I had was sticking front brakes so I replaced the calipers.
The next issue was the rear drum brakes dragging. When I initially broke them down several parts fell out (same parts, both sides). The PO had put a drum kit in but didn't connect the self adjusting lever/screw/spring combination correctly. Now, I am not a mechanic so I wasn't sure exactly how to piece it all back together. After much time and searching this forum and others (and almost poking my own eye out with a pair of needle-nose pliers - safety first) I finally found a picture that showed the correct assembly. I also decided to replace the wheel cylinders while I was in there.

That freed up the rear-end, but now the front was sticking again. Everyone I asked pointed me to the brake lines so I replaced them but the calipers where still sticking. I decided to replace the master cylinder, because there just weren't many things left to replace at this point. While doing that I realized the the adjusting rod seemed to be pressing on the piston in the MC before it was even completely seated. Backed off and that and now the calipers are no longer sticking.

So now the front is free and the rear is free, but the pedal is very soft and will go to the floor.

We realized that we didn't bench bleed the MC as well as we should have so we went through that process and then re-bled the entire system. Still, the brakes are soft.

After one more Google search, and a threat from my wife to take it to the brake shop if I didn't get it fixed SOON, we finally came across what I am hoping is the final solution: the rear drums.

You know how sometimes when you continue to do something over and over and over again that it just becomes routine? Well, while trying to figure out how to assemble the self-adjusting lever/screw/spring I had taken the rear brakes apart so many times that when I finally got it right, I didn't think to adjust them properly. The pedal was soft because the rear drum brakes where not making contact. We adjusted them out and the pedal immediately got better. They weren't perfect but much better. I took it down the road at about 50mph and stood on the brakes - I was very happy with how well it stopped.

I took it home and adjusted it a little more. Unfortunately, I have been able to drive it since then, (whole other issue), but I will this weekend.

I THINK we finally have this issue resolved. If not, I'll let you know what the brake shop says because that is where it is going next.
Try stomping on the brakes in reverse. You'll be amazed how much better they feel next time you go forward. Most of the star-type adjusters are designed to adjust themselves when you do this.
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post #22 of 25 Old 09-30-2011, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
UncleDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtime_ironman View Post
Try stomping on the brakes in reverse. You'll be amazed how much better they feel next time you go forward. Most of the star-type adjusters are designed to adjust themselves when you do this.
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I'll finish it off that way, but they were so far out of adjustment it wouldn't have gotten tight enough to cause it to self-adjust.
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post #23 of 25 Old 10-31-2011, 06:50 PM
MrElectric03
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1984 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Good thread, only a month old and here I am reading it in a parking lot waiting for AAA to pick me up with a sticking right front caliper in my 94 YJ. Mine only sat for two weeks, hopefully it's just the caliper.
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post #24 of 25 Old 10-31-2011, 08:02 PM
worleysc
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: ripley
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I have not fixed mine yet, but I keep a wrench with me and relieve the pressure when it seizes up. Not ideal but it keeps me from being stranded. I Just open and close the bleeder real quick.
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post #25 of 25 Old 01-02-2012, 07:05 AM
worleysc
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I finally fixed mine about a month ago. It was definitely the proportion valve, it was all icky inside and the o-rings were shot. I purchased the ssbc valve, but it's really not so simple to just bolt on. It's not too bad, but be prepared to spend a day on it, unless you study up on it and you are prepared with all the right fittings, adapters, benders,, etc. I still have to make a whole new rear line for mine because it's really not done right. This did fix all of my issues with the sticking front and non existing rears. I also opted for the brake light switch, because I strongly dislike (new word for 2012, can't use the h word anymore) the factory switch on the brake pedal. Its pretty straight foward, a lil bending here and there an adapter or two and then the hardest part is the rear brake line. I needed the Jeep to move, so I just made a short line and coupled it to the existing, but shortened line. I plan to bend a whole new one piece line for the rear.
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