Superb! I appreciate your mentality. I'm that way with things I intend to use for a while or trust my life to. Nothing wrong with that. I'm nostalgic so I prefer some stuff to be well used, rather tried and true. My '87 YJ, my Mossberg 500 (1968), iPhone 4S, decades old Craftsman snowblower (just sold it with a foot of snow on the way, doh) ... things that have proven themselves worthy. If given the option would absolutely buy a close-to-NOS YJ before laying down quid on a newer plastic JunK, every time. I prefer leaf sprung Jeeps. (Would love to put a '95 4.0L in a 50's Willys pickup)
But anyway, I dig the clear lenses. Had em on my Jeep when I got it. The front fender flare lights have since been smashed and I put them back together with a new LED strip / electroluminescent tape design but haven't finished them yet... lost em in the garage lol. I totaled a car with the right front corner of my Jeep a few years ago.
Here's some pics.
What it looked like a couple winters ago with the hard top on. Now it's the same with a soft top.
The day I picked her up.
One of the earliest upgrades was to 31's... two different kinds. lol pieced together from friends.
First snow / one of my favorite pictures of the Jeep
Here I stepped up to BFG KM1 M/T 31x10.50... interestingly, mine is I think the 3rd Jeep this set has been on. I bought them used for $50 from a guy going up to 35s or something on his TJ, who got them from another kid years earlier. One had a sliced sidewall that didn't leak air for like 4 years, then only leaked when you parked with the slice facing down. Found someone on here in NJ to slap a shipping label on his lightly used trail spare to round out my set. JeepForum and Jeepers in general are pretty good people willing to help you out if you're in a bind. Just ask!
Ignore the mess lol... half a mile of wire can be snipped out of these, but I haven't bothered. I plan to clean it up better this season at least. Maybe route the intake through the cowl with an inline filter. The filter is expensive. The intake I have on in the picture was only $20+15 shipping off eBay brand new, for a Chevy TBI and it was the cheapest air cleaner solution I could find without hitting the brake booster or anything. I'm running a Holley 500cfm 2bbl (2300 series / 4412-5 w smaller jets) hence why I needed a different air cleaner.
Yeah I know it had trailer lights in it when I got it -- I don't have a pic handy of the rear now, but it's got a ****ty dual tube bumper on it (buddy practically giving it away) with AutoZone Pilot "burners" for backup / rear lights and I put in clear LED tow truck lights that are bright as F$&K.
So much more to do but you're inspiring me!! Keep it up!
And I'm gonna do the same. If anyone needs my orange lenses (they look brand new) they are free for the taking. I also have some bumperettes that look brand new I'm not gonna use.
Hell when I had my 04 and lifted it I have that brand new stock suspension away.
I did miss everyone waving. Glad to be back for sure!
Lol i dont wave at post-YJs unless theyre a friend, a girl, really well built or sometimes if they wave first. JK owners get the walking dead moonshine hut salut (the middle finger for you non-dead fans)
Honestly the black has been easy to maintain-- i know that sounds dumb but even after blasting through mud my jeep always always always came out looking clean. No matter how dirty pr how long it sat in the elements my YJ always looks clean. Maybe just a really deep black that doesnt show dirt like youd expect.
My cousin had an 87 that was white w gray interior- really liked his in white. His was 87/4.2/auto(999)/np207.
Pearl is expensive and impossible to color match or spot repair by its very nature. But looks sexy.
Im also a fan of the old Kelvinator bright white like on the 1969.5 AMC SC/Rambler. The finest color white ever to grace a car.
Yknow with such low mileage a 4.0 head swap w fuel injection and a camshaft would give her a new lease on life.
I was and still kinda am all about keeping my 87 as close to "real Jeep" status so real jeeps had carburetors and not even a nuke would stop their excellent mechanical reliability.
Every upgrade or mod ive done was with the philosophy of making it better than stock if i had to replace something i found a way to make it better. Holley carb, dual ignition setup, aluminum radiator, optima battery, 31" m/t, etc.
Please don't rhino line over such beauty. Ive bought jeep parts second hand that were sprayed over with that crap and if i ever meet the kid who ruined a rare color factory hard door ill slap the man silly.
has its place in the world but I assure you It doesnt belong underneath or inside of a jeep. Maybe floors only but absolutely nowhere that myself or family will come into contact with it. Way too rough of a material for the purpose.
Lizard Skin or there's another big box spray in liner thats got a tiny bit of give to it, like a firm thick rubber that wont gouge or chip but if you bang your elbow into it or scrape it it won't eat your skin off your body.
The lizard skin is great for your application because of its superior sound deadening. Its cheaper than rhino liner. The real deal guys use it, like in hot rods.
Also don't get stuff like that on moving parts like driveshafts etc it will throw the balance out and could damage things. Friend's TJ previous owner to clean it up sprayed undercoat under the whole jeep and unbalanced the front cv shaft - eventually the vibration blew apart the cv ball and locked up the tcase / puked gears and chain out of the bottom of her bone stock tj at 65mph on a highway she's lucky she didnt roll it.
Do you plan on leaving the jeep outside uncovered in the rain or something? You seem really worried about rust in funny places.
No it's just scratched up. I could have it repainted, but since I was gonna install padding I figured the rhino would be the best overall bet to last forever. I do have one place local with an over big enough to powder coat it.
We used to have a Jet Hot factory close (20 min). Man I miss those days. They were actually pretty cheap for me and those coatings were fine!
If Planning to wheel with rear passengers its the way to go. I prefer the traditional style roll bar, it looks more proper on my rig. But when i weld in a full cage, guess what, its going byebye in the name of safety.
I use Rust Tough Enamel from Walmart in Satin Black. Its like $2-3 per can and is extremely durable... I totaled a car and most of it remains intact lol.
A properly prepared and applied enamel paint will last a long time. Powder coating is pricey uess your guy owes you a favor or you buy the kit to do it at home in your small oven.
Rattle can gets my vote!
If you must, use an adhesion promoter, self-etching primer (so important), sand/bead blaster or really good preps-all wax and grease remover. Good finish is all about excellent prep, 90% anyway. The rest is technique.
Post more pics of this thing!! I wanna see how clean it is all over! Nooks n cranny shots! :P
Although I believe your gearing debate is over, I just wanted to state that my 1990 YJ SUCKED with 3.07's when I upgraded tires. I went with 265/70-16's (about 31's). Fifth gear was darn near useless. I had a spider gear failure which forced me to install the 3.73 8.8 axle I had ready to go in. WOW is all I can say. I went from barely able to do 70 on the highway, to doing 85 plus. - and yes, I corrected the speedometer...
I do 70 in 5th at ~2400rpm now. which is pretty nice. With my tire size, 4.10's would be overkill as my 4.2 does not like anything over 3k rpms. So if you go 4.10's, make sure you get at least a 32 on there.
Lower geared axles will also help your BA-10 to survive. Easing the load the transmission sees to drive the wheels. My YJ had a BA-10 when I got it, with 117k on the clock. It had a little grind going into a few gears. I picked up another on ebay mere months after buying the jeep for $75 plus about $30 for shipping. This *new* one shifts much better, and has already logged 15k miles. My miles are mostly easy miles though, my jeep is not off road very often. I figured when this BA-10 goes, I'll put the old one back in and baby it until I can find an AX-15 or 3550.
Well no a lot of the debate may be over but my decision isn't. I've still been looking around. I've been quoted (so far) $1800 to convert both axles to 4.1. I've also been quoted $1800 for a guy to do my Dana 30 and install me an 8.8 (and that's with both in 4.56). I don't really think I need 4.56. Ideally I wanna run 33's-35's. And truth be known I should just be happy with 33's.
So I've done an ok amount of mechanic work, but never anything involving axles. I did brake jobs at a Mazda dealership in highschool and that's as in depth as my knowledge goes. But from what I've read I have to go to a larger carrier to go 3.73 or above (at least in the D35)???
On another not the Ba10/5 shifts great right now (why I plan on servicing it as not abusing it). Also, the motor holds great oil pressure (cold, hot, and hardly moves during rpm range). So I know it's tight.
Gremlin, I'm def interested in the 4.0 head swap with FI, and I've heard great things on the Howell FI kit. I def would like to make this little motor peppier, more reliable, and keep it around a long time.