1310 vs. 1330 vs. 1350 - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 10-25-2012, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
rambo3489
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1310 vs. 1330 vs. 1350

Any opinions on any one over the others? I am going to be building my drivetrain from the t-case back and want to try and get it all right. U-Joints are no exception

Thanks

Tyler


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post #2 of 14 Old 10-25-2012, 08:44 PM
Pawjob
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When i built mine i used the 1310. The reason I did cause I wanted this to be the weak point. Easier to change a U join then axle shaft or R&P.
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post #3 of 14 Old 10-25-2012, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
rambo3489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pawjob View Post
When i built mine i used the 1310. The reason I did cause I wanted this to be the weak point. Easier to change a U join then axle shaft or R&P.
Thats one of my philosophies. I shouldn't break a shaft. (35 spline ford 9") The R&P will be the weak point I feel if I go with a 1350. Is there truth to that?

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post #4 of 14 Old 10-25-2012, 09:12 PM
dillonjm
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I wouldn't worry too much about your 9"s R&P with the 4.2 and 35's.

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post #5 of 14 Old 10-25-2012, 10:40 PM
Joe Dillard
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I run all 1310's on my rear drive shaft.

I have a 1310 at the Atlas end of the front drive shaft & a combo 1310/1350 at the D60 end. Reason for the front combo ujoint is the D60 typically runs either a 1330 or 1350 series yoke. My D60 came with a 1330 yoke that had one of the ujoint cap tabs broken on it, so I swapped in a 1350 yoke and went with the 1310/1350 combo ujoint. The 1350 sides of that ujoint are a beast in comparison.
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post #6 of 14 Old 10-25-2012, 10:45 PM
Anticanman
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I don't have a super built jeep but I not only run 1310 but I have one cheap one from autozone in each driveshaft so it will make it an even weaker point should that day come. Well, except for the warrantied super 88 shaft that I broke. I got a mulligan on that one.

There should be a fuse of some sort in every build aspect of your jeep. Something cheap and easy to replace.

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post #7 of 14 Old 10-25-2012, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
I run all 1310's on my rear drive shaft.

I have a 1310 at the Atlas end of the front drive shaft & a combo 1310/1350 at the D60 end. Reason for the front combo ujoint is the D60 typically runs either a 1330 or 1350 series yoke. My D60 came with a 1330 yoke that had one of the ujoint cap tabs broken on it, so I swapped in a 1350 yoke and went with the 1310/1350 combo ujoint. The 1350 sides of that ujoint are a beast in comparison.
So did you end up with the 1310's for a specific reason? Or is that the shafts you had/found and went with it?

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post #8 of 14 Old 10-25-2012, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
rambo3489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
I don't have a super built jeep but I not only run 1310 but I have one cheap one from autozone in each driveshaft so it will make it an even weaker point should that day come. Well, except for the warrantied super 88 shaft that I broke. I got a mulligan on that one.

There should be a fuse of some sort in every build aspect of your jeep. Something cheap and easy to replace.
OK. I smell what your stepping in. Makes perfect sense to me.

89 YJ.. My first jeep and I won't let it go. ▀||||▀

Current Project: None... I disgust myself.

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post #9 of 14 Old 10-25-2012, 11:36 PM
Joe Dillard
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I went with all 1310's in the rear shaft because they work well & like Nick said - I wanted a built-in fuse.
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post #10 of 14 Old 10-26-2012, 01:27 AM
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I like the "fuse" idea and I had an instance that somewhat proved that theory. I broke the u-joint on the rear axle yoke of my d35. It also screwed up my axle but I don't think that should be a problem with a stronger one like an 8.8 or d44. I lost the rear half of my custom shaft in the process though...
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post #11 of 14 Old 10-26-2012, 05:41 AM
jsawduste
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With a Ford 9 inch pinion height so low you would likely be binding with anything other then a 1310 at full droop. Binding is what kills u joints.

Do a search on u joint angularity and you will soon see what the maximum operating angles of the common u joint sizes are. Not to mention what their maximum operating torque load is. Follow those facts rather then the JF opinion poll.

Another option is a 1410 as it has the angularity numbers but nobody makes a 1410 yoke for the 9 inch.

In this case you have little choice.
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post #12 of 14 Old 10-26-2012, 06:29 AM
mrmark
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in mine I have 1330 at the 8.8 flange yoke and 1310 in the double cardone.

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post #13 of 14 Old 10-26-2012, 06:49 AM
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I run 1310.
As long as your driveshaft angle is right you will have no worries.

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post #14 of 14 Old 10-26-2012, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmark View Post
in mine I have 1330 at the 8.8 flange yoke and 1310 in the double cardone.
x2. I went with the 1330 at the 8.8 flange yoke so I could use the stock Ford flange which is easy to get at any dealer or junkyard in the event I break it. The stock Ford flange is a lot beefier then the adaptor plates for a 1310.

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