ZJ Rear Disc Conversion to 8.25" Write Up - The Whole Truth!!! - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 48 Old 01-28-2012, 12:20 PM
Azzy
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2001 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Finleyville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSWiser View Post
subscribed.
Somehow i doubt it will be updated, although i guess it is now.

The one thing theis thread has that no other writeup i have seen is how e-brake cables are intalled. think I figured out my issues with teh bouncing brake, i dont have a spring in the cable area on the rear of the disc.

No prop valve mods here and it stops on a dime. A lot better than our stock XJ, which will get teh conversion soon.


Im the guy who makes new gauges, check out our gallery at Teamadw.com
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post #47 of 48 Old 03-08-2012, 04:23 PM
justbob
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
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you can buy the brake cables at
Code:
http://www.theautopartsshop.com
for a lot less then anywhere i found.

Once you can accept the universe as being something expanding into an infinite nothing which is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy
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post #48 of 48 Old 08-21-2013, 09:34 AM
wildmustard
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The first step describes: 'Loosen the lock bolt with a 5/16" socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet for a little more leverage, then remove it with a box wrench.'

The lock bolt is prone to failure. Mine broke with about half a thread still inside the carrier, preventing the pin end of the bolt from coming out, which prevents the crosspin from sliding out, which prevents all further progress and must be addressed. It is near impossible to drill out what is left behind. The fix isn't pretty, but it works.

- spin the carrier 180 degress, so you are looking at the other end of the crosspin.
- with a good sized hammer and drift (punch) that is just smaller than crosspin, drive the cross pin to break what remains of the lock bolt. Surprisingly, it doesn't take much. The crosspin will shear off on each side of the crosspin.
- Drive the crosspin only enough to shear the locking bolt. About 1/4"? Then spin the carrier back 180 and remove the cross pin. Watch for what remains of the old lock pin as you want to account for all of the pieces.
- In my case, the small threaded end of the lockpin was still in the carrier. I assumed I would have to drill it out, so I removed the carrier to make room for tools. Keep an eye on the shims, and general positioning! With just a blip on the drill bit the last piece jumped out of the threads. I bet it could have been spun out without removing the carrier.
- Jeep maintenance manuals stipulate that the locking pin is to be replaced with a new one whenever the rear end is maintained. A new pin from the dealership was just a coupe of bucks. I'll have one on hand as a pre-requisite to any rear and maintenance.

Last edited by wildmustard; 08-21-2013 at 10:10 AM.
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