XJ wire diagrams - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 41 Old 03-07-2010, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
EurospecLiberty
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XJ wire diagrams

Hello,

I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ with a 4 cylinder 2.5 liter engine in it. I just replaced my coolant temp sensor and sender because the gauge was not reading any temperature. I dont know alot about testing wires but i did a light test on the SENDER and got good results but on the SENSOR i dont get any light results. Im thinking the wires might be bad. Does anyone know where i can find a specific wire diagram for this engine, or have any other ideas? All help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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post #2 of 41 Old 03-07-2010, 11:55 AM
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The guage uses two coils to deflect a needle an amount based on current flow. The sensor is a variable resistor that is case grounded. AFAIK, thats the whole circuit......is there 12V at the sensor??
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post #3 of 41 Old 03-07-2010, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
EurospecLiberty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepaddict View Post
The guage uses two coils to deflect a needle an amount based on current flow. The sensor is a variable resistor that is case grounded. AFAIK, thats the whole circuit......is there 12V at the sensor??
well im not sure. i just know that when tested with a light tester i dont get any light. I have a voltage tester, but im not even sure how to use it (ie. what setting to put it on)
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post #4 of 41 Old 03-07-2010, 07:31 PM
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Set a voltmeter for DC Volts, measure voltage coming out of the wire that attaches to the coolant temp sensor, it should show around 12V. If the light testor you have is for automotive voltages, it should light. If there is no volts, follow the wire to find a break.
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post #5 of 41 Old 03-11-2010, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
EurospecLiberty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepaddict View Post
Set a voltmeter for DC Volts, measure voltage coming out of the wire that attaches to the coolant temp sensor, it should show around 12V. If the light testor you have is for automotive voltages, it should light. If there is no volts, follow the wire to find a break.
ok, and your saying i should do this with it hooked up to the sensor? i was trying it before with it unplugged from the sensor.
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post #6 of 41 Old 03-11-2010, 12:14 PM
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Ground one lead of the tester, reach over to the battery + terminal to confirm your ground works, you should see light or get voltage reading 12V. Now, connect to the free wire removed from the sensor. You should see light or 12V. If ya wanna test the sensor, use the meter from + on battery to terminal of sensor, voltage should change as it warms up if engine is running, else you should get a voltage that varies depending on coolant temp.
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post #7 of 41 Old 03-12-2010, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
EurospecLiberty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepaddict View Post
Ground one lead of the tester, reach over to the battery + terminal to confirm your ground works, you should see light or get voltage reading 12V. Now, connect to the free wire removed from the sensor. You should see light or 12V. If ya wanna test the sensor, use the meter from + on battery to terminal of sensor, voltage should change as it warms up if engine is running, else you should get a voltage that varies depending on coolant temp.
Ok, i gave that a try and i get a reading of 5 volts from the wires, i know the voltmeter and ground is good because i get 12 from the battery. This also means my wires dont have a break in them right? could the wires just be bad?
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post #8 of 41 Old 04-06-2010, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
EurospecLiberty
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BUMP!!! So i only get 5 volts on the voltmeter at the coolant sensor. Does this mean bad wires, bad connection or something else? thanks for all the help.
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post #9 of 41 Old 04-06-2010, 12:10 PM
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I think you need to make sure you are working with the correct component. The Engine coolant temperature sending unit has one wire, is at the rear of the head on driver side, and sinks the Temperature guage. The Engine Coolant temperature sensor has two wires, is on the thermostate housing, at front of engine, and has varisor to allow PCM to sense current as an input.

I unplugged my coolant temperature sensor with engine running and the electric fan came on right away. I measured 5.03 Volts between the sense and ground in the connector. The manual says the PCM supplies up to 5 volts from cavity 2. The ground wire is in a circuit with all the other ground wires that include: oxy sense, cam position sense, crankshaft position, intake air temp sense, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, Engine coolant temperature sensor, and vehicle speed sensor.

I didn't get a chance to work on the sending unit because I am looking after my daughter. Take another look at it & post back. Hope it helps.
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post #10 of 41 Old 04-06-2010, 07:27 PM
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Ok, I am back from chores & looked at the wiring diagram. It says fuse 17 feeds the instrument, through circuit F87. Circuit F87 connects to the instrument cluster left connector, and supplies voltage for the guage. The position of the needle is a function of the current that passes through it to ground through the sending unit attached to the engine block. The wire that connects the temp guage to the sending unit is colored as follows: VT/YL at the instrument, at connector C108 it continues as VT/YL to the Gray connector on the sending unit. I would check and see if the sending unit has 12v to it, and trace back along the wire to the guage. Connector C108 also connects the engine oil pressure sending unit with a GY wire.
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post #11 of 41 Old 04-07-2010, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
EurospecLiberty
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I was talking about the sensor originally but i did replace the sensor and the sender. The sensor (in the thermostat) is the one reading 5 volts and the sender(in the engine head) i got 12 volts at that one. so far it seems like i am getting the correct voltage to the sensors/senders. The fuses could be a good place to look because unfortunately my fuse box cover does not have a cover on it so there is no diagram anywhere. Im not even sure what fuses go to what; would you have a picture to post up of a fuse location diagram? So your saying the same fuse that works the temp sender works the oil pressure as well? because my oil one doesn't work either but i wasn't as concerned with that right now. I hope im not being too confusing but all this really helps and is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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post #12 of 41 Old 04-07-2010, 12:12 PM
irishgobrah
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If you can get a Haynes manual it would help you a bunch.

-Casey
93 XJ :Rusty's 3" w/ 31x11.5 swampers-hooked my brother up
96 XJ :Rusty's intake/exhaust kit-hooked my dad up
00 WJ :clear lenses from an 04-wife's DD
95 XJ :2dr slowly coming along!
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post #13 of 41 Old 04-07-2010, 01:32 PM
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Ok, if you are getting 12 volts to the sender, I would say you need to look at the guage being defective. When you put the key in the run position before starting, do the idiot lights work? The same source feeds the idiot lights as the guages, the wire to the sender has power, so you need to investigate why the guages have fallen out of the circuit. Has someone done a bunch of work or modifications under the dash?

The sensor is an input to the PCM, so, leave that side alone. Take a look and come back.
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post #14 of 41 Old 04-07-2010, 02:00 PM
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And like Irishgobrah sez, try and get a manual. If you use google, you can find them instant download off the net and cheap.
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post #15 of 41 Old 04-08-2010, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
EurospecLiberty
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I do have a manual already; however it is very vague on the wiring diagrams part and very hard to understand. Well it is actually kind of funny, i do not have idiot lights because I replaced the entire gauge pod from my factory speedometer with idiot lights to another gauge pod out of another jeep with all the gauges and tach. However, now that you mention it, the light on the old gauge pod never worked for the coolant and it had a good bulb in it, i tested it manually. Im not sure if that means much, from what i could tell when i changed the gauges out, there hadn't been any other modification around the dash. Today i did do what you said about unplugging the sensor while the engine was running and my fan did kick on right away, so that tells me that, that must be working; i also tried unplugging the sender and nothing changed. Right now im not around the Jeep but as soon as i can im going to double check the wires to the sender and make sure it has 12 volts, if not are there any other ideas to check. Also, any idea where i could get a diagram of what my fuse box should look like? thanks for all the help.
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