XJ Taillights/turn signals & LED bulbs - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
firehawk
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XJ Taillights/turn signals & LED bulbs

Has anyone else tried those LED bulbs in their Jeep? Got a wild hair, and tried some in the brake lights, back up lights, and turn signals.

A couple of problems, the turn signals flash real fast, but only when there are LED bulbs in the back TS lights. If I put the LED's in the front TS lights too, they won't flash at all. Is that telling me I need a HD flasher? Also, when I apply the brakes the brake lights AND the rear turn signal bulbs light up. Only with the LED bulbs. The bases of both bulbs are exactly the same.

The bulbs are 3157's, and the LED bulbs are direct replacement bulbs. They work fine in the back up lights, and brake lights.

BTW, the 2000 owners manual is wrong. It says the back up bulbs are 1156, NOT they are 3157's

Any info appreciated.


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post #2 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 07:51 PM
BeachinXJ
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Only thing I can think is they aren't pulling enough voltage and its fouling up the flashers and relays..

Where did you pick these bulbs up?

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post #3 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 07:54 PM
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW
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I had no problem seeing your lights last week following you, especially in the rain...

Save your pennies for my tires
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post #4 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeachinXJ
Only thing I can think is they aren't pulling enough voltage and its fouling up the flashers and relays..

Where did you pick these bulbs up?
Got them off of ebay. They are nice and bright, I kind like them. I remember when we hooked up a boat to my Dad's car, the turn signals would flash real fast, and a HD flasher solved it. That is why I figured a HD flasher would fix the problem.

I still can't figure out WHY the REAR turn signals light up with the brake lights. That completely stumps me.

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4.0L / AW4 / NP 242, blah, blah, blah...
A lot of parts that cost a lot of money
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post #5 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW
I had no problem seeing your lights last week following you, especially in the rain...

Save your pennies for my tires
You mean they can be bought for PENNIES????? I've got LOT'S of copper.

I can't help myself, I love to experiment, and tinker.

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post #6 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawk
You mean they can be bought for PENNIES????? I've got LOT'S of copper.

I can't help myself, I love to experiment, and tinker.
Yeah, thats right, LOTS of pennies

Try one at a time in the rear (don't add both at the same time). Also try switching them around (as far as poliarity), I'm not sure if you can put them in "backwards", but that may be a cause. Another thing to try is run a wire to a ground directly to the "metal case" of the bulb, maybe they are not grounding correctly.
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post #7 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW
Yeah, thats right, LOTS of pennies

Try one at a time in the rear (don't add both at the same time). Also try switching them around (as far as poliarity), I'm not sure if you can put them in "backwards", but that may be a cause. Another thing to try is run a wire to a ground directly to the "metal case" of the bulb, maybe they are not grounding correctly.
The bases are EXACTLY the same as the standard 3157 bulbs. I did notice that the LED bulbs will only light up with them plugged in one way only. If I switch them around they won't light up at all.

A 3157 bulb has no matal base, only a wire wrapped around the base of the plastic base. But again, the bases are exactly the same. I'm stumped.

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A lot of parts that cost a lot of money
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post #8 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 08:11 PM
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Most likely its the sockets corroded and it's effecting the grounds. You could try grounding each socket with a new wire, and see if that fixes your problem.

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post #9 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeachinXJ
Most likely its the sockets corroded and it's effecting the grounds. You could try grounding each socket with a new wire, and see if that fixes your problem.

I'll try that, and while I appreciate all input, if I put the standard 3157 bulbs back in they work fine. I'm beginning to think you might be correct in that they aren't pulling enough current.

I shot an e-mail off to the seller. I'll see if they get back to me.

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A lot of parts that cost a lot of money
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post #10 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 09:05 PM
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i bet if your ground those sockets it will work. The constuction of the bases might be different, and it isn't completing the ground with the LED's and that's causing all of your issues. Metal vs plastic base, etc.

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post #11 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeachinXJ
i bet if your ground those sockets it will work. The constuction of the bases might be different, and it isn't completing the ground with the LED's and that's causing all of your issues. Metal vs plastic base, etc.
I just got back in from screwing with them some more. The bases on both the standard, and LED bulbs are plastic. The thing that caught my attention is the fact that there is no reason for a 3157 bulb to be in the turn signals. The 3157 is the same as an 1157, other than the base. Both have two filiments. Why does a turn signal need TWO filiments? It isn't on all the time like a tail/brake light. It needs only one "brightness level". In a tail/brake light the tail light filiment does not brighten up when you press on the brakes, only the other filiment lights up.

It seems to me the turn signals need a 3156, ie single filiment like an 1156, if they even make one. Also the fact that there are resisters inside the LED bulb, and they light up when plugged in one way HAS to have something to do with it.

I'll see what the seller has to say. Judas priest this is becoming more trouble than it might be worth.

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4.0L / AW4 / NP 242, blah, blah, blah...
A lot of parts that cost a lot of money
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Last edited by firehawk; 01-01-2006 at 10:19 PM.
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post #12 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 10:45 PM
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Well here is the deal from someone who installs customs light setups for a living. Leds ( Light emiting diodes) Draw less voltage than your standard buld than your flasher relay goes faster its just how it works now if you want them to slow down this is what you do but a pair of 10 ohm 25watt FIREPROOF resitors (Spelling I know its late) and wire them into the flasher light Problem solved. this is how we solve all the led change overs in our shop if you need to know how too wire let me know I dont want to bore everyone anymore

PS LED's are not polarity sensitive
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post #13 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overcranked
Well here is the deal from someone who installs customs light setups for a living. Leds ( Light emiting diodes) Draw less voltage than your standard buld than your flasher relay goes faster its just how it works now if you want them to slow down this is what you do but a pair of 10 ohm 25watt FIREPROOF resitors (Spelling I know its late) and wire them into the flasher light Problem solved. this is how we solve all the led change overs in our shop if you need to know how too wire let me know I dont want to bore everyone anymore

PS LED's are not polarity sensitive
He's got it right there. The led's have less resistance which is causing your flasher to screw up. You can wire in some resistors in to the line somewhere and it should solve the problem, but as for how much resistance you need to add, I have no idea. Do a search on LED's, I know I've read somwhere on how to re wire your existing flasher to get it to work right.

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post #14 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overcranked
Well here is the deal from someone who installs customs light setups for a living. Leds ( Light emiting diodes) Draw less voltage than your standard buld than your flasher relay goes faster its just how it works now if you want them to slow down this is what you do but a pair of 10 ohm 25watt FIREPROOF resitors (Spelling I know its late) and wire them into the flasher light Problem solved. this is how we solve all the led change overs in our shop if you need to know how too wire let me know I dont want to bore everyone anymore

PS LED's are not polarity sensitive
I'm VERY interested in how to wire this up. I found a site called TrucknVan, and they sell an "LED Load Equalizer" whatever the heck THAT is. Something like what you describe most likely. They want $7.95 for one. I assume that what you describe, or what they sell would have to be done to every bulb.

Doing what you suggest, will that stop the LED turn signal bulbs from lighting up with the LED brake light bulbs?

Like I said, this is confusing. When you find time, e-mail me, or PM me with the information. kbh2112@msn.com

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4.0L / AW4 / NP 242, blah, blah, blah...
A lot of parts that cost a lot of money
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post #15 of 29 Old 01-01-2006, 11:15 PM
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you can also get an electrical flasher, they dont depend on current running through them. i dont know it they are direct fit but check out ebay couple of guys sell them on there. but you can find them cheaper elsewhere on the net. or you can try a truck stop for them. the risisters are a pita to wire in the flasher is a plug and play or you may have to make a couple of short wires to plug into the socket and the flasher if it doesnt fit. i will try to find a part number for you.
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