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Unread 02-03-2014, 11:36 AM   #796
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My only concern is the SS amp is CONSIDERABLY larger... I'm not sure where I'd put it.

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Unread 02-03-2014, 11:56 AM   #797
Ozman94
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Originally Posted by Teeeejay View Post
My only concern is the SS amp is CONSIDERABLY larger... I'm not sure where I'd put it.
Shouldn't be a problem... worst that happens is you build on to your box for a secure & safe place to mount it. You can worry about that after you buy the sub and have a box designed for it.

As long as you plan on sacrificing some of the area behind your seats anyways...
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Unread 02-03-2014, 12:07 PM   #798
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Shouldn't be a problem... worst that happens is you build on to your box for a secure & safe place to mount it. You can worry about that after you buy the sub and have a box designed for it.

As long as you plan on sacrificing some of the area behind your seats anyways...
Yeah, I'm gonna do something about a sub so yeah. I'll probably just do that. Only thing is I'll have to run a LOT of wire...
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Unread 02-03-2014, 12:19 PM   #799
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Just bought the REF4.760 and mm6501s

Now all I'm gonna have to do is find a place for the tweeters... Hmm.

Oh yeah, and I gotta deaden the doors...
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Unread 02-03-2014, 01:04 PM   #800
Ozman94
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Originally Posted by Teeeejay View Post
Just bought the REF4.760 and mm6501s

Now all I'm gonna have to do is find a place for the tweeters... Hmm.

Oh yeah, and I gotta deaden the doors...
I'd play around with them first before starting anything.

As for sound deadener, nobody works to help the customor like showdown:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Do some research on this website. Main concept for doors is to apply deadener and then use something like ensolite to cover ALL holes etc. Then use some type of sealant to make the door and the door panel act like an enclosure for your midwoofer.
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Unread 02-03-2014, 01:10 PM   #801
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As for wiring, just run one line of 1/0 gauge wire to the back underneath your carpet. You'll never need anything bigger unless your working on more than a 2k system. And that' an expensive jump.

Use a D-block in the back to split the 1/0 to two 4 gauge inputs. This is expensive but it takes care of everything except speaker wire. I normally run 12 gauge since I have my amps in the back and the comps are up front. 50' of raptor 12 gauge on ebay is like 15 bucks. or for 31 you can get 100'.

knu wiring:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...rodID=KFX-PK20

raptor wiring:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160560649564...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
If you don't ever plan on getting a larger amp than that hifonics, you'll be okay running 4 gauge from your batt (if from knu, some lower brands skimp on their wiring by making larger rubber tubing).

Or to save some money, and you don't plan on ever running more than 250 amps worth of power, you could buy cca (copper-clad aluminum). It's a cheaper type of wire, but nonetheless noteworthy depending on your application. Best advice I can give is to buy the biggest wire that you think you'll end up using, ever. You'll save money in the long run.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KCA-PK0

If you buy that, you should get a d-block as well and some 4 gauge wire along with ring terminals and any other accessories etc. And don't forget the speaker wiring
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Unread 02-03-2014, 01:40 PM   #802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozman94 View Post
As for wiring, just run one line of 1/0 gauge wire to the back underneath your carpet. You'll never need anything bigger unless your working on more than a 2k system. And that' an expensive jump.

Use a D-block in the back to split the 1/0 to two 4 gauge inputs. This is expensive but it takes care of everything except speaker wire. I normally run 12 gauge since I have my amps in the back and the comps are up front. 50' of raptor 12 gauge on ebay is like 15 bucks. or for 31 you can get 100'.

knu wiring:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...rodID=KFX-PK20

raptor wiring:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160560649564...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
If you don't ever plan on getting a larger amp than that hifonics, you'll be okay running 4 gauge from your batt (if from knu, some lower brands skimp on their wiring by making larger rubber tubing).

Or to save some money, and you don't plan on ever running more than 250 amps worth of power, you could buy cca (copper-clad aluminum). It's a cheaper type of wire, but nonetheless noteworthy depending on your application. Best advice I can give is to buy the biggest wire that you think you'll end up using, ever. You'll save money in the long run.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KCA-PK0

If you buy that, you should get a d-block as well and some 4 gauge wire along with ring terminals and any other accessories etc. And don't forget the speaker wiring
I'll check out the sound deadening stuff. Why don't I just run a second 4 gauge wire from the battery? It'd be a lot cheaper since I could just get a wiring kit.
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Unread 02-03-2014, 01:44 PM   #803
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I'll check out the sound deadening stuff. Why don't I just run a second 4 gauge wire from the battery? It'd be a lot cheaper since I could just get a wiring kit.
I was assuming we were based off scratch. Two runs of 4 will be closer to 2 gauge then 1/0, depending on the brand. What 4 gauge wire do you have now?
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Unread 02-10-2014, 09:10 PM   #804
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Look what showed up when I went home this weekend! Still waiting on my speakers. Also, Ozman94, text me, I lost your number.
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Unread 02-10-2014, 09:56 PM   #805
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Look what showed up when I went home this weekend! Still waiting on my speakers. Also, Ozman94, text me, I lost your number.
Did you ever decide on subs?
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Unread 02-10-2014, 10:13 PM   #806
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Did you ever decide on subs?
Gonna do a single ported Sundown SA-12.
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Unread 02-13-2014, 11:45 AM   #807
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Protect mode yet again. I got a kenwood, 248U I believe. I have pretty low quality speakers, would just blowing them make it go into protect? Recently redid the speaker wires to the headliner so I think they wouldn't have insulation problems. Does that mean its gotta be front speakers or should I still check back for being blown? How can I check source, besides unplugging speaker wires one at a time? I unplugged RCA cable to amp that supplies sub and it was still on protect so should I rule out the sub?
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Unread 02-13-2014, 11:49 AM   #808
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Protect mode yet again. I got a kenwood, 248U I believe. I have pretty low quality speakers, would just blowing them make it go into protect? Recently redid the speaker wires to the headliner so I think they wouldn't have insulation problems. Does that mean its gotta be front speakers or should I still check back for being blown? How can I check source, besides unplugging speaker wires one at a time? I unplugged RCA cable to amp that supplies sub and it was still on protect so should I rule out the sub?
Check the front doors first. Because of the doors get opened and closed and periodically slammed, the wiring can get jarred loose.
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Unread 02-14-2014, 07:54 AM   #809
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An easy test to see if blown speakers are causing the protect is to check the resistance at the speaker wires going into the amp. It's not one hundred percent accurate but it's a quick, easy place to start
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Unread 02-14-2014, 08:43 PM   #810
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I'm glad I found this thread and it's still active! I have a 2000 XJ and I just put in some new 5.25 door speakers and a new head unit. I'm looking to get a bit more bass and volume w/out distortion, but how do I know if the distortion is coming from my head unit or speakers?

Oh and if I installed a powered sub off the RCAs in the head unit, it would be okay even though it's a low-wattage head unit right? Since it has its own amp?

And this might sound stupid but my mom's car is a 2010 Kia Optima, with a stock sound system that imo has really good bass response...How big of a powered sub do I need to achieve the level of bass/quality of most new cars (think year 2000+Audi Bose)
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