XJ Rear D60 Swap Questions - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 45 Old 01-24-2013, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
fedx95
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I would pay that as well, that's cheap

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post #32 of 45 Old 01-25-2013, 08:26 PM
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Yup. I was reading up on ways of shortening a driveshaft. So far all looks good except for cutting the tube perfectly square. I'm not sure how i will be able to do that.
They Yoke has a small lip that fits into the drive shaft tube. Grind off the weld
And remove the yoke, cut the tube to length, then put the yoke back in and weld it up. I did this with a XJ front driveshaft for my wrangler, never had it balanced, and I have no vibrations.

$75 is outrageous.

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post #33 of 45 Old 01-26-2013, 04:35 AM
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What are your plans for unibody reinforcement if you haven't already done it? Without doing at least frame stiffeners from the front horns back to forward leaf spring pockets, you're looking at separating unibody pinch welds/ cracking the unibody in multiple areas. As stock, the XJ unibody will not handle the loads and stresses caused by full width axle swap.

With the 36s and D60s coupled with long arms, you've added a whole lot of unsprung weight and also leverage due to wider track width and heavier tires. I wheeled my Xj for a couple years with stock width axles and 35s without frame stiffeneres and I had multiple cracks on it. This has happened to a lot of guys.

If you haven't done any research on this or haven't burned in frame stiffeners, search on pirate4x4's Cherokee- section. Some info on this site as well (ie. look for EricXJ build thread).

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #34 of 45 Old 01-26-2013, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
fedx95
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Not sure what approach I'm going to take with that. More research. I'm thinking rocksliders burned to the frame at a minimum. The long arm crossmember that I have will reduce frame flex a bit. Note sure what else
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post #35 of 45 Old 01-26-2013, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fedx95
Not sure what approach I'm going to take with that. More research. I'm thinking rocksliders burned to the frame at a minimum. The long arm crossmember that I have will reduce frame flex a bit. Note sure what else
Like Timo said. If you don't do frame stiffeners, you're wasting your time. Burning in frame stiffeners into your thin frame isn't going to do *****.
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post #36 of 45 Old 01-26-2013, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibjeepin95
Burning in frame stiffeners into your thin frame isn't going to do *****.
Huh?
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post #37 of 45 Old 01-26-2013, 11:37 AM
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If you just weld plates over your frame,you will still have the same problems with spot welds separating form the body itself. You should use frame stiffeners in conjunction with outriggers that tie into the body. Speaking a priori; for example, frame stiffeners with rock sliders that are welded the the body (between the frame and rocker panel) and frame, as well as having the sliders welded to the pinch seam. Or you could cut out the rockers and weld in some rectangular tube for a more integral slider. I would also install a crossmember for a transfer case skid and cross members front and rear where the stock bumpers are.

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post #38 of 45 Old 01-26-2013, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroGravity View Post
If you just weld plates over your frame,you will still have the same problems with spot welds separating form the body itself. You should use frame stiffeners in conjunction with outriggers that tie into the body. Speaking a priori; for example, frame stiffeners with rock sliders that are welded the the body (between the frame and rocker panel) and frame, as well as having the sliders welded to the pinch seam. Or you could cut out the rockers and weld in some rectangular tube for a more integral slider. I would also install a crossmember for a transfer case skid and cross members front and rear where the stock bumpers are.
This.

Also, cage is not a 100% but recommended. Once you go bigger, you gotta do quite a few things to do it the right way. Most important really = frame stiffeners + box steel rockers + connecting those together.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #39 of 45 Old 01-26-2013, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
fedx95
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You think if I ran a few stock crossmembers welded down the body, sliders burned at the frame and the rocker at the pinch seam, as well as the mega long arm crossmember I'll be good?
I like integrating the slider into the rocker but I don't know if I have those skills.
Anyways, waiting for the perches to ship in. $35 from a local shop.
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post #40 of 45 Old 01-26-2013, 10:52 PM
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Just buy the set from Hd OffRoad engineering. Don't **** with anything else.
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post #41 of 45 Old 02-24-2013, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Rear 60 has been on. Need to find a brake line, driveshaft has to be made, and trim the rear fender to see how much I can lower the height from where its at. Been busy recently so haven't worked on it. I'm still looking for a junkyard priced front dana60.
Has 3" blocks for rolling purposes. Not sure what approach to take height wise.
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post #42 of 45 Old 02-25-2013, 12:13 AM
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height looks good actually, ditch the blocks, get some real leafs...


and WTF is that thing on your roof?
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post #43 of 45 Old 02-25-2013, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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It's a roofrack I picked up. I have to cut it up and weld it back to my dimensions, then paint it black lol.
I have the ram van 3500 leaf pack, I might get the main leaf from that. It will get my shackle angle right and give some lift. Otherwise I would need a full leaf pack. $$$
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post #44 of 45 Old 06-21-2013, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Update:
So it's back on stock leaf springs, with the dana 60. I bought a 1310 yoke ($40)and installed it. Then I shortened my original driveshaft to make up for the longer yoke.
Brakes: reflared the lines and bled all the brakes. Brakes work great now even with the stock MC.
It's on 31" tires. It's really, really fast. And it slides around anything with enough gas (great limited slip).
Downside: crazy wheel hop if hard on the gas. I need rear shocks. I only have one hooked up and it's bad.
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post #45 of 45 Old 06-21-2013, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Picture. 31s in the back and 30.5 in the front. The axle by itself gives around a 2" lift.
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d60 , dana 60 , full width , swap , xj

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