XJ Oil Pan removal - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Cherokee & Comanche Forums > XJ Cherokee Technical Forum > XJ Oil Pan removal

Poison spyder items @ oconee off road 706 534 9955New jk doors from steinjagerOconee Off-Road Free Shipping Lifts Tires Bumpers Tops and

Reply
Unread 11-04-2010, 09:32 PM   #1
fatalone513
Registered User
1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: cincinnati, ohio
Posts: 5
XJ Oil Pan removal

I'm trying to replace the oil pump in my 99 XJ and I cant get the pan out.. I have removed the following: starter/oil pan bolts/stabilizer links/bottom bolts of my shocks/steering shock/tires and wheels.. The car is on jack stands and the suspension is fully extended? I looked all over the post here and everyone else seems to have removed these without removing anything but the bolts?

is the pick up tube in my way?

I'm lost and about to tow it to the jeep dealer and get crushed with a bill.. worst part is I have no clue if this is going to fix my problem... Engine had high pitch squeal/zero oil pressure/and of course no oil to top side of motor...

Any help would be appreciated.

fatalone513 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-04-2010, 09:46 PM   #2
AZ Jeff
Web Wheeler
2014 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Tan Valley Arizona, AZ
Posts: 7,348
1. How much gunk/sludge did you see in the top end of the engine?
2. Are you unable to free the pan from the block, or are you unable to lower the pan enough to remove it from the vehicle?
__________________
AZ-Jeff
1992 XJ -- stock (RIP)
2000 XJ -- lots of basic mods. Sold to fellow forum member. I miss it.
2014 JK -- the project is just starting!
AZ Jeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-04-2010, 10:20 PM   #3
5-90
Registered User
1988 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Jose, CA, Hammerspace
Posts: 5,344
Sounds like he's still got the sump stuck to the rails.

Get a flexible putty knife (buy one or two if you don't have any - a 2" usually works, a 3" is helpful in other situations) and get it in between the sump and the rails. Don't get the stiff ones - you'll have to work around a bend!

Once you get the knife edge driven into the sump seal, work it along up and down the rail to break the factory seal (it's silicone, and it's mashed down really well.) You can also pull on the knife handle to try to prise the sump down from the block skirt to free it up.

Once you have the sump loose, you may need a bit more room to get it out past the pickup and the bottom of the bellhousing. If you've got the front end up to full droop, make sure you have about an inch of daylight under the tyres - you can use the OEM tyre changing jack on the axle tube and front subframe rail to force it away. If you still need a bit of room, remove the four nuts for the transmission mount (13m/m socket, M8-1.25 if you want to replace them. I use Nylon collar locknuts here...) and lift the transfer case up with a floor jack - that works out to most of another inch (which is about what you need, most likely.)

I've done several sump jobs without having to disconnect anything in the front suspension, so I know it can be done.

Given you're working on a 99, you should already have the one-piece moulded rubber sump gasket (it was introduced in 1996, but fits all the way back to 1987.) You shouldn't need to use anything on it - I never have. Just torque the 1/4"-20x1/2" screws to 7 pound-feet/84 pound-inches and the 5/16"-18x3/4" screws to 11 pound-feet/132 pound-inches (yes, it's that important!) and recheck torque in a week. I like to use RTV on the screw threads as an ersatz threadlocker - it works better, and it's more flexible for retorquing in a week (which is needed with the rubber gasket, whatever anyone else tells you.)

Pay particular attention to the end rail going over the rear main cap - it likes to jump out of the groove for it. You can use RTV to retain it, but I've usually just pulled it into place with some wire after the sump is up and that's been quite good.

I find it helpful to install about four studs near the ends of the rails - 1/4"-20x1-1/4" (you can get a valve cover stud kit for SBChevvy with stamped covers, and that will work. You'll use half of the kit - save the other half for the valve cover when you do it.) Use LocTite #242 on these, and they'll let you hold everything up with one hand while you start the nuts with the other - saves a lot of wrestling later...
__________________
"recon" (sic - reckon)(tm) "hihgly"(tm) "seceed"(tm)
"Outback AIDS - Alcohol-Induced Dizzy Spells"
5-90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-04-2010, 10:43 PM   #4
fatalone513
Registered User
1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: cincinnati, ohio
Posts: 5
the front axle has no wheels on it and is hanging from the control arms (only-needs shocks and stblzr links anyways so removed for more hang/pan clearance).. the pan is also about 3-4 inches from the block and from what i can see on my back I cant tilt the back of the pan down enough to clear the bell housing and front axle... Im nervous the oil pump has been replaced since every single pan bolt was almost hand loose and I can see blue sealant - the XJ has 90,000 on it and the prev owner replaced the head at 85k (old head in back of jeep when I bght it?
I'ill take some photos tomorrow evening and try losing the trans mount to give me the 1~2 inches I need and let you know how it turns out..
I have a Fel-pro 1 piece replacement gasket - and I have packed the new oil pump packed with Vaseline ..
that raises the other question- with no distributor to remove and hand prime with a drill - will just Vaseline in the pump and cranking the engine work?
Thanks for the help so far - i appreciate it
fatalone513 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2010, 07:35 PM   #5
fatalone513
Registered User
1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: cincinnati, ohio
Posts: 5
pan came off _ i had the front axle dropped too far - raised it up and came right out... now i cant get the pickup tube into the pump.. is there a special tool or do I beat it in with a rubber mallet?
fatalone513 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-01-2010, 03:44 PM   #6
fatalone513
Registered User
1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: cincinnati, ohio
Posts: 5
I ended up renting a tool that’s specific to inserting pickup tube from Autozone (buy it for $15 dllrs autozone/$22onilne)... The one thing I couldn’t figure was do i remove the Cotter pin from the pump.. The last one was installed by a shop and pin was still in place so I left it. I got the pan back in place and I will finish the job tonight and see if cured the issue. I have read that the whistling noise could also be the intake which is possible since this had a head replaced recently.
fatalone513 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-12-2014, 11:57 PM   #7
anecaj
Registered User
1997 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Blaine, MN
Posts: 5
m

Last edited by anecaj; 05-21-2014 at 09:41 AM..
anecaj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-13-2014, 01:58 AM   #8
Timo_90xj
Web Wheeler
 
Timo_90xj's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 5,412
With 3"+ of lift, the oil can be removed with the Jeep sitting on four tires on the ground. On a stock height XJ, you will need to raise the body up (or remove front tires) and support the Jeep from the uniframe rails, then let the front axle droop a couple inches.

It's a tight fit, but the oil pan will come out from there. I removed oil pans from both my XJs, the other at the time was lifted 3.5", and the other one was stock height at the time.
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
Timo_90xj is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-13-2014, 02:11 AM   #9
5-90
Registered User
1988 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Jose, CA, Hammerspace
Posts: 5,344
Quote:
Originally Posted by anecaj View Post
this is all BS! I have a Cherokee '97 w/ "up-country" suspension. One can NOT get the oil pan out. if one can, then FINALLY message me. my jeep has been on stands for 2 weeks waiting. Most everyone speaking on this issue has a 2WD jeep WHAT A PARADOX.....don't try and tell me how to do this on a 2WD jeep. remove the "Jeep" tags off your vehicle.......or give me useful information. can I jack up the tranny? how do I remove the front axles plus differential? what the hell else do I do? PROVE IT!
I pulled the sump on my 87 (3"/31") with all four paws on the ground - no trouble.

On my 88 (stock/30",) I had to jack up the front to full droop, and then "assist" the front axle slightly downward with the OEM tyre jack against a frame rail (I used the OEM mech jack instead of a hydro because: 1) I didn't need that much effort, and 2) because I had more control with a mechanical jack.)

Did the same on a friend's 1990 (stock/stock,) with similar assist.

You've got to do some finagling to slip past the pump pickup - and to get it back in - but once you do, you're golden.

If you can't do it, you're either not paying enough attention to it as it stops, or you're not yet patient enough. It CAN be done!
__________________
"recon" (sic - reckon)(tm) "hihgly"(tm) "seceed"(tm)
"Outback AIDS - Alcohol-Induced Dizzy Spells"
5-90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-17-2014, 08:30 AM   #10
anecaj
Registered User
1997 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Blaine, MN
Posts: 5
sorry but it's not the pump pickup where it is stuck. it's hitting the bell housing cover and if that were off it maybe even still be stuck. the poster w the '99 was closer than all the 80's & earlier 90's models. it may be bye bye Xjeep
anecaj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-17-2014, 09:16 AM   #11
dvonrick
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 12
On my stock 88 I popped the drag link off the pitman arm to get the room (vehicle jacked up). For me it was quicker and easier than other solutions.
dvonrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-17-2014, 09:23 AM   #12
Timo_90xj
Web Wheeler
 
Timo_90xj's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 5,412
Quote:
Originally Posted by anecaj View Post
sorry but it's not the pump pickup where it is stuck. it's hitting the bell housing cover and if that were off it maybe even still be stuck. the poster w the '99 was closer than all the 80's & earlier 90's models. it may be bye bye Xjeep
You must have one special 4wd XJ that no-one else has, if you can't get the oil pan removed like everyone else does.. ..or, you're just doing it wrong, which is highly more likely...
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
Timo_90xj is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-18-2014, 12:12 AM   #13
anecaj
Registered User
1997 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Blaine, MN
Posts: 5
m

Last edited by anecaj; 05-21-2014 at 09:43 AM..
anecaj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-18-2014, 12:32 AM   #14
Timo_90xj
Web Wheeler
 
Timo_90xj's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 5,412
Dude, chill out.. you're doing the exact things one has to do with any stock height XJ owner does when removing the oil pan.
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
Timo_90xj is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-18-2014, 07:00 AM   #15
Kalali
Registered User
2000 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ocean, NJ
Posts: 477
You can remove the oil pan in two (or three) easy steps: 1) remove engine, 2) remove/reinstall oil pan, 3) install engine. Done. What's all the fuss about?
Kalali is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.