I ran T&T Customs y-link long arms on my XJ when it was sitting at 4" true lift height, turning 35s. The only thing that speaks against long- arming using the available bolt-on kits in general is one simple thing: radius arm long arms don't behave as well as a true 3-link or 4-link.That being said, radius arm long arms beat the hell out of short arm lift at as low as 3" lift height - unless you modify LCA and UCA brackets on the axle.
My solution on the ZJ was that I raised the LCA and UCA mounts on the axles by 3" (at the same time moved them back accordingly), thus maintaining original 4- link geometry using DIY adjustable short arms built with Metalcloak duroflex joints. The result? Amazing. Ride quality is the same as stock - if not better - and I can go through head- sized boulder sections on the trails @ 20-30mph
Compared to the brackets being at their original location and CAs at an angle, the difference is huge. Considering I'm using the same shocks, the difference came from just the angle of the CAs.
People saying it's pointless to long-arm (or modify CA brackets) @ 3" or even up at 4.5" of lift: sorry, but you don't have a clue.
When you lift a XJ, ZJ or TJ, things get messy very quickly. You can't fight physics/ geometry, and at as low as 3" of lift height the front axle suspension geometry is already messed up pretty badly. It goes even worse from there on. If you were to check what happens to the 4-link geometry at 3" or 4" of lift height, you'd be surprised.
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***