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Unread 01-07-2013, 09:56 AM   #16
Timo_90xj
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Kinda thinking the same way Swap in a D44?

I'd do that, if there weren't the stupid laws here in Finland that prevents me from deleting abs- brakes and running wider track axles..

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 01-07-2013, 10:25 AM   #17
ibjeepin95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Kinda thinking the same way Swap in a D44?

I'd do that, if there weren't the stupid laws here in Finland that prevents me from deleting abs- brakes and running wider track axles..
I'm so stuck on the fence on this.I'm a college student so I don't make all kinds of money. I keep telling myself to stay on 35's until I'm done with school. If I did a 44 swap, I'd then want a 9" or 60 and 37's, do a mid arm 3link, blah blah blah.........
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Unread 01-07-2013, 10:36 AM   #18
Luke95
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Do you have the cash $$$ for 37 and a set of axles? Or to break stuff? If not stay on 35s
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Unread 01-07-2013, 11:15 AM   #19
ibjeepin95
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Do you have the cash $$$ for 37 and a set of axles? Or to break stuff? If not stay on 35s
I'll stay on 35's until I'm done with school. I can afford 30 and 8.25 parts all day long.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 11:33 AM   #20
Luke95
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My thoughts exactly! I'd father have a 8.8 it's cheap I really want a 70 or 14b on 37s but I can't afford it
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Unread 01-07-2013, 11:39 AM   #21
Timo_90xj
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14b and it's parts are actually fairly cheap, but fitting under the XJ is another thing - and that's even more so with HP D60 fronts
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 01-07-2013, 04:15 PM   #22
ibjeepin95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
14b and it's parts are actually fairly cheap, but fitting under the XJ is another thing - and that's even more so with HP D60 fronts
The thing is, I have no desire to run over 37's/38's.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 04:43 PM   #23
Timo_90xj
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Yeap.. for those a D44 + D60 or a D60 + 14b combo would be perfect, depending on available power under the hood and/ or driving style.

Until that, keep the 30 and run 35s with not-so-heavy-pedal I had 35s on my XJ with 4.88s, stock shafts (large u-joints) for a couple years and I wasn't too easy on it - yet I never managed to break even a u-joint. My ARB and R&P took a dump on me, but that was because of a casting failure on the ARB and was covered by warranty. D30 actually holds up suprisingly well under an XJ even with 35s as long as you don't do anything overly stupid, like heavy landings at full throttle after launching over a rock ledge Then again, I've broken three shafts on my ZJ niner, I guess the V8 power is a bit too much for the poor turdy.. they were CVs though, let's see how well AlloyUSA cromo- shafts can take the grunt. I'm seeing tooth-fairy paying a visit at the R&P in the future

edit: But enough of the BS about this stuff, let's get back to your original subject of the thread, flat belly on the XJ
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 01-07-2013, 05:30 PM   #24
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I will be watching this thread closely. Better not let me down
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Unread 01-07-2013, 05:41 PM   #25
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I will be watching this thread closely. Better not let me down
I won't dude! Hopefully I'll get a little work done between classes tomorrow.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 06:20 PM   #26
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Started back to school today but between classes I got some work done on the cross member. First off, it fits and all the bolt holes line up....



Then I cut some access slots to the trans mount bolts. No, they aren't perfectly square, but it's going to get thrashed on so who cares? I took one of the pieces of metal I cut out and welded it across the slots on the inside for a little added strength...



Here is a pic of the whole cross member...



So I slapped another stock cross member (not bent up one) on so I could get it out of the garage. Tightening up the bolts, one of the bolts just spins in the frame. Did I break a nutsert? What do I do with that?
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Unread 01-08-2013, 06:28 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibjeepin95 View Post
Started back to school today but between classes I got some work done on the cross member. First off, it fits and all the bolt holes line up....



Then I cut some access slots to the trans mount bolts. No, they aren't perfectly square, but it's going to get thrashed on so who cares? I took one of the pieces of metal I cut out and welded it across the slots on the inside for a little added strength...



Here is a pic of the whole cross member...



So I slapped another stock cross member (not bent up one) on so I could get it out of the garage. Tightening up the bolts, one of the bolts just spins in the frame. Did I break a nutsert? What do I do with that?
2 options IMO
1. Cut a hole in the side of the frame for new bolts. Not the best idea. It was done on my previous XJ.

2. Cut out both bolts(stud and nut), weld 2 nuts to a piece of 1/8 and weld in place of the old ones.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 06:33 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by BriansCJ View Post
2 options IMO
1. Cut a hole in the side of the frame for new bolts. Not the best idea. It was done on my previous XJ.

2. Cut out both bolts(stud and nut), weld 2 nuts to a piece of 1/8 and weld in place of the old ones.
Thanks. I was hoping it would be something besides a pain in the d!ck. Sounds like fun
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Unread 01-08-2013, 06:38 PM   #29
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Pain in the dick indeed, welds broke, you know how it goes
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Unread 01-08-2013, 06:40 PM   #30
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I've thrown this idea around a good bit. I just can't justify putting that much work into a Dana 30!
Sack up and build a 44. Then wish you built a 60. Wanna buy a built 44?

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Thanks. I was hoping it would be something besides a pain in the d!ck. Sounds like fun
I vote weld some 1/2x13 nuts to a piece of plate, and add a few more while you're add it. I'd say 3 or 4 per side, overkill is always better.
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