[talentjeep]

Now that images show up for me I've decided to start a build thread. So far the only thing I've done is gut the A/C system, replace the radiator, dist. cap, etc.

I've also disconnected the rear sway bar and the hose that pulls hot gas from my exhaust header to my airbox.

My Jeep:



I'm working on a junkyard lift right now so I can fit some decent tires.

The Jeep that I loved so much it made me buy my Jeep:



It's an '89 and has the AX15. Belongs to my special lady friend. She wouldn't sell. If hers had a Dana 44 though I would have bought her a ring since it would have been cheaper than buying one any other way! The welds on the driver's door hinges are failing, the first symptom being the fact it's front edge caught the quarter panel and bent it in.

Current Modifications:
4" Rear Blazer Ghetto Lift w/ BPE + JK Rancho Shocks
3" Rustys HD Coils + Ranchos
Moog Steering Damper
IRO Trackbar
JKS Quicker Disconnects

[talentjeep]

Some junk I've removed from the Jeeps. I can't decide if it's worth putting the engine skid back on or not. It's a pain I almost lost teeth to while removing, haven't put them back in yet.




I've already put my Jeep through quite a bit of hell. I took a run at a steep bank and put the engine fan into the radiator. Turns out the motor mounts were shot. Replaced the radiator trailside and spent the next two weeks fighting with it in the middle of nowhere (made several trips, got stuck a second time!). Finally a friend drug it home on a flatbed trailer...I had to wait for hunting season to be over before anyone had time.

Had a bunch of work done on it. Throttle body was filthy. Turned out this had something to do with it:

[talentjeep]

Got it back from the shop and it started having problems. Finally I disconnected this hose and she has been running like a champ ever since. Gas mileage is down 1-2 mpg or more. I assume this is the equivalent of disconnecting your EGR valve? I'm told a 10% reduction in fuel mileage is common but the power gain is nice!

**I've learned a lot since this and I still don't understand why pulling this hose fixed it. Must have been pure coincidence. There is a crack in my exhaust header so it could pull some exhaust gas but I doubt very much. I've also considered the "blow by" issue on the line running from the valve cover to the airbox. Perhaps removing the hose allowed more fresh air and the O2 sensor got a different reading. I still don't know but she runs great.**

Here's a photo of the leaf pack I want to take out of a Chevy Blazer. I lost a battle with some bushings but I'm going back for them next week. I've heard the ride will be stiff so I may only use the mainspring as an AAL. We'll see.

Here's the thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/ghetto-lift-will-work-902204/

[

I'd also like to say thank you to the forum so far...you guys have been a big help. I had a picture in my mind but all the great info and links on here really help when trying to make a battle plan.

[talentjeep]

I left work early to get to the JY today. My new 8lb sledgehammer did the trick on the bushing bolts but it wasn't easy. $40 for the springs, $18 for the hammer.

I took them off this.



Here's the springs. Sorry for the blurriness, kinda hurt both my hands so they both were shaking. Using a 10" extension and a sledge to pound a bolt through a bushing while holding the spring in place with one leg can lead to pain, apparently.



My current springs are definitely sagging. With nothing in the back they're almost flat. I didn't take the tire off but you can see how little clearance there is...these are stock tires!



The new springs are the right width for sure:



My plan to avoid removing my current bushings (trying to do a lot of this cheap and fast since it's my DD in the winter time) is to lift the Jeep, drop everything but the main leaf and put the whole Blazer set in.

Should I reuse any of my old Jeep springs if they're that tired? These Blazer ones seem to have life in them. Suggestions appreciated! I hope to cut metal this Saturday.

[2GPS4ME]

I would cut the Chevy 1500 spring(s) that you want to use and add it (them) to the XJ spring pack. That way you use factory equipment but gain lift. 2 cents.

That's a nice looking 87, by the way!

[Warhawk77]

Very nice idea. I need to find a JY in my area and copy some of your ideas

[underpowered]

looks like a cool little project.

[talentjeep]

Originally Posted by tirefryer93

I would cut the Chevy 1500 spring(s) that you want to use and add it (them) to the XJ spring pack. That way you use factory equipment but gain lift. 2 cents.

That's a nice looking 87, by the way!

Thanks. Only issue on the body is a crack in the tailgate and a slightly pushed in bumper. I can't believe the shape it's in for 22 years. Dash, console, almost everything quite solid. Loose screws here and there. Speakers taken out. But an on highway Heep before now. The seatbelt works too! Someone even found a wooden shift knob somewhere, it's loose but it's great in cold weather. No rust since Oregon doesn't salt the roads - even in emergencies!

I think stacking the springs like you said is the way to go, I'll get more lift that way too.

[talentjeep]

So I took the wheels off today in the hopes of building my Blazer bastard pack but it turns out I can't get the U-bolts I need until Tuesday.

I'm ordering ones that are 9" to accommodate the extra springs.

I decided to go crazy with the photos so I have future reference of what my Jeep looked like stock and so other folks can see it without having to pull stuff off.

Here is the measurement from my fender to the center of the wheel.

16" is what I have, I've been told stock is 17" so the old springs are definitely sagging.



Put it up on jack stands and this was as far as I could drop the axle with the wheels on. About 20" or 20.25" so this was about 4" difference.



Took the wheels off and measured with the axle dropped.



Took a look at the brake lines. This one is the emergency brake cable. The back looks okay too. I may have to disco and re-maneuver the hard brake line but I don't think I need new ones. I'll get 2" or so just from the new metal and hopefully a little more from the springs but I'll have to fiddle to get it right. I don't want to go too tall, just enough for 31s after trimming.



By my measurements the bolts are 7/16" diam, 6" long and and about 3.75" from outside to outside.

Here are some pics of the U-Bolts, both on and off for reference:








Stock wheel backspacing. 5.25"



For those who are new to wrenching.
First I had the regular ratchet.
Then I bought the 12" bar and said "Best money I ever spent."
Then I bought the 18" ratcheting bar and said "Best money I ever spent."

With a few shots of PB and that 18" I got the u-bolts off no shoulder separation or swearing required. I didn't even bleed today!



I need U-Bolts! Arrgh....

[tizzdizz]

You may want to start out with just the main blazer leaf with the eyes cut off as your AAL below your XJ main leaf, which is left in place. Using the whole leaf pack from that blazer seems like it would be super stiff and not very flexy. Nice start though. Good to see someone diving right in!

[tate228]

Didn't anyone tell you that you shouldn't use a measuring tape on a cherokee. Looks like a cook build

[talentjeep]

Originally Posted by tizzdizz

You may want to start out with just the main blazer leaf with the eyes cut off as your AAL below your XJ main leaf, which is left in place. Using the whole leaf pack from that blazer seems like it would be super stiff and not very flexy. Nice start though. Good to see someone diving right in!

I've been playing around with different ideas. I've also considered keeping only my Jeep mainspring and using the whole blazer pack. I want a stiff back end because I frequently carry all my tools and the weight is enough to make my frame hit the bump stop way too often.

**Very stiff. Going over speed bumps is bone shattering. I might have gone a little overboard**

Someone had suggested using all the springs since they would also act as spacers and give me lift that way since I don't know if the blazer springs will actually provide that much lift on their own - it was a '93 Blazer. Since the blazer pack is 2.5" thick I know I will get that much lift at least. I don't want over 3" though so that's why I think I'll have to play with different packs either way to get results.

Originally Posted by tate228

Didn't anyone tell you that you shouldn't use a measuring tape on a cherokee. Looks like a cook build

I may have broke the rule...

But I did have to explain to someone who asked me why I had a sledgehammer in my front passenger side. I said "That's where it goes." They asked why I needed to have a sledgehammer, to which I replied "It's a Jeep thing."

[xjfever]

I'm guessing you will get 6" of lift using the entire blazer pack under your main leaf, but you can give it a try. Be sure to cutt the main leaf to where it fits under the XJ main eyes to support your soft main leaf.

[talentjeep]

Originally Posted by xjfever

I'm guessing you will get 6" of lift using the entire blazer pack under your main leaf, but you can give it a try. Be sure to cutt the main leaf to where it fits under the XJ main eyes to support your soft main leaf.

With that in mind I think I'll swap out for Blazer springs (with Jeep main only) and see what happens. That's way too much lift (I can't buy wheels, tires, SYE, etc. right now). Then I can pull out Blazer springs until it drops to where I need it.

[OHIOMAN]

If you don't want that engine skid, I'll take it.