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Xj 98 electrİck fan

1K views 16 replies 3 participants last post by  bluejunior 
#1 ·
Hi dear friends,

I have a 98 XJ car and i believe that it has a problem cause When temperature gauge is 103 C, electric fan works and cools till 1 C and it stops but i know that electric fan must cool as 98 C. Does anyone has this type of problem or know the reason?
Why electric fan does not cool till temperature become 98 C
Please help and explain me detailed to solve it's problem.

I am waiting to get a response.
Thank you all.

 
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#2 ·
First question for me is where are you located? Mighty warm out here in the SW where I am. My temp gauge runs in the center to the first line on the right at this time of year. That is with a completely rebuilt cooling system. The fact that your fan is running tells me that it is functioning properly. Usually if something is wrong with the electric fan it simply quits. Gauges are not always the most accurate too. So you might want to check out the fan clutch to start & see if it is working properly. Good luck!
 
#4 ·
Thanks for your message, I live in Turkey(now 28C), I still suspect e-fan, I think it closes early e-fan, My car after running half an our 100C reached, later 103C e-fan is coming. continuous 102C-103C and normal driving. I'm more afraid of rises in land.

my car new parts:

75C thermostat, temperature sensor, e-fan, mechanical fan(heavy duty), radiator, radiator pipes, head gasket.

What do you think I should do ? Thank you..
 
#6 ·
75*C is too low for a 4.0. Factory spec is ~90*C. You want your thermostat opening and closing at the right times, it was that temperature from the factory for a reason.

28 isn't all that hot, so I'd expect it to stay more around 99-100 except at low speed with the A/C on. Still, 103 isn't a danger to the engine at all.

Sounds like you started with the big stuff, I'd start with a chemical coolant flush. Your radiator and hoses are new, but your head could still have build-up causing it not to flow well and to run warm. You might also have air bubbles trapped in your cooling system causing it to work badly. You might try burping it before you start replacing any more parts. It's common to get air trapped in there when you replace so many parts. There are youtube videos and forum threads describing the correct steps.

A corroded impeller in the water pump could also cause low flow, and thus higher than ideal temperatures.

An infra-red temperature gauge would also allow you to verify the temperature at the thermostat housing to make sure you don't have a bad reading from the new temperature sensor. It wouldn't be unusual to get some inaccuracy from a cheap chinese made replacement, a lot of mechanics would probably have one around if you don't want to buy one for yourself.

And the last thing is your new radiator. Did you get a factory style aluminum one or a brass/copper radiator? They sell those as upgrades, but aluminum actually conducts heat more efficiently. brass/copper radiators can cause more problems than they solve in such a narrow radiator, usually the factory one just needs a good flushing unless it has cracks.
 
#7 ·
75*C is too low for a 4.0. Factory spec is ~90*C. You want your thermostat opening and closing at the right times, it was that temperature from the factory for a reason.

28 isn't all that hot, so I'd expect it to stay more around 99-100 except at low speed with the A/C on. Still, 103 isn't a danger to the engine at all.

Sounds like you started with the big stuff, I'd start with a chemical coolant flush. Your radiator and hoses are new, but your head could still have build-up causing it not to flow well and to run warm. You might also have air bubbles trapped in your cooling system causing it to work badly. You might try burping it before you start replacing any more parts. It's common to get air trapped in there when you replace so many parts. There are youtube videos and forum threads describing the correct steps.

A corroded impeller in the water pump could also cause low flow, and thus higher than ideal temperatures.

An infra-red temperature gauge would also allow you to verify the temperature at the thermostat housing to make sure you don't have a bad reading from the new temperature sensor. It wouldn't be unusual to get some inaccuracy from a cheap chinese made replacement, a lot of mechanics would probably have one around if you don't want to buy one for yourself.

And the last thing is your new radiator. Did you get a factory style aluminum one or a brass/copper radiator? They sell those as upgrades, but aluminum actually conducts heat more efficiently. brass/copper radiators can cause more problems than they solve in such a narrow radiator, usually the factory one just needs a good flushing unless it has cracks.
İn the system not air, I am sure, it was 90C thermostat earlier when this problem by 75C
 
#11 ·
@bluejunior, all good points. Some thermostats have a bleed hole to allow air through. Cannot remember if the holes is to be at the top, (most likely) or ? If this was installed incorrectly, possibly there is an air pocket in the system? On the later XJ, perhaps '97 & newer, the system will purge itself of air but if the thermostat was installed incorrectly? Also if the stat is an aftermarket, it possibly does not have a bleed hole which could cause an air pocket in the system.
 
#12 ·
@bluejunior , all good points. Some thermostats have a bleed hole to allow air through. Cannot remember if the holes is to be at the top, (most likely) or ? If this was installed incorrectly, possibly there is an air pocket in the system? On the later XJ, perhaps '97 & newer, the system will purge itself of air but if the thermostat was installed incorrectly? Also if the stat is an aftermarket, it possibly does not have a bleed hole which could cause an air pocket in the system.
^^Also a point on this 98. I don't remember if the XJ thermostat is handed to force the hole to the top, but I don't think it is. Thermostat is an easy thing to double check for that bleed hole. That should be easy to do before or during a flush or water pump check since all of those operations involve opening the system anyway.
 
#14 ·
Pulling the thermostat doesn't allow you to double check orientation? My point was that the biggest pain is draining and refilling, even partially. So either way you're going to need to do those steps you might as well pop the t-stat housing and check orientation.

Also,that's generally true for short flushes where you run it at idle for half an hour or so (up to temp + 15 minutes with the heater at max). When I do a first flush after too long, I do one of the "deep flush" products where you actually leave it in for days, up to around 100 miles of driving. In that circumstance, you want the stat in so your engine warms up properly while you're driving around. I'm assuming since OP never mentioned a flush in his troubleshooting, he hasn't heard of it and probably has never done one before. Hence suggesting the deep clean procedure instead of just idle to temp + 10-15 minutes.

Those multi-day flushes should include a few times where you leave it to idle a little while with the heater on blast to make sure the core gets de-gunked, though. We definitely agree there.
 
#17 ·
I really don't think the mech fan is your problem right now. The symptoms of that would be good temperature while driving, but overheating at low speeds or when stopped.

I'm still stuck on you needing to do a flush to clean out your head and header core, having a water pump problem or having air in your system.
 
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