Originally Posted by hdsport
I am a "take apart" person and have developed a method to completely disassemble these switches and recondition them. I love to do detailede work and these were a challenge to me a couple of years ago. There are a lot of internal parts and the reassembly is a little tricky, but if you are careful, it can be done.
My time is abour 1 1/2 hours to do one of these.
I am currently doing this for a local shop with 100% success.
If anyone would like a rebuild, please let me know.
Also, I would consider buying your old one to keep in stock.
Instead of throwing your old one away, I could get you $10 plus shipping for your old one....help defray the cost of a new one.
These will easily fit into a USPS Priority Mail soft envelope...$4.95 anywhere.
Email me at: firstname.lastname@example.org
Thank you, Paul, for letting me know that it is possible to "rebuild" (actually just clean up) these switches. If I hadn't known that "someone" had gotten one back together, just one time, I would have given up and bought a new one.
In my case, my "new" 2000 Cherokee showed three symptoms:
- Right turn signal was sluggish - would "fast flash" a few times before settling in to a normal flash rate,
- 4-Way flashers would flash only the Left signal indicator (turning the directional switch to signal right would make both flash), and
- 4-Way flashers would only flash the Left outside signals (turning the directional switch to signal right would add the Right Rear to the Left signals, but the Right Front would never come on).
I removed the old switch (quite easy, really, but, oh boy, all the dirt and dog hair that were jammed into that rubber gaiter...), took it inside, and took it apart.
Like everything, taking it apart was very easy. It would be a bit harder to figure out where all those little parts that flew out were supposed to go.
Inside, the majority of the contacts were green with corrosion.
I cleaned all the old (and green) grease off of them with some lacquer thinner, then gave them a good scrub with a Dremel with a tiny wire brush attachment 'till they shined, then cleaned the grease I'd dredged up off of them again with more lacquer thinner. When I was done, all was shiny.
I coated it with a nice, slippery grease (I like heavy-duty clear red grease-gun grease because a thin film is very
slippery, and I avoid dielectric grease because it insulates, and I'd rather not introduce an additional potential bit of resistance to the circuit).
Now began the conundrum of how to reassemble.
It seemed obvious at first (doesn't it always?), but the first three times I put it together, I got it wrong.
I finally figured out the trick, and got it on time #5.
I did not take pictures, but the trick is to assemble everything into the black half (the half with the plug receptacle - the side that faces toward the front of the car), except for the signal lever. This includes
- the 4-way slider (which has the 4-way tab on top),
- the directional signal slider (which interlocks with it, just below it), and
- the little contact slider for the high beams, which would seem to need to hang on the end of the signal lever, but does not.
The little high beam slider should be set as high in its groove as it can be, so you can grab it with the end of the signal light lever when you mate the two switch halves.
The directional and 4-way sliders should be set toward the right of their travel.
Assemble the signal lever to the white side:
- The large, heavy spring fits into the curved groove in the surface of the lever base that faces the white plastic case half (faces the driver when seated in the car) and acts to return the signal light lever to center after you signal right or left.
- The long, thin spring goes on the two posts with tabs on their tops (which hold the spring in place), and goes through the space in the signal lever base that lies between the two posts.
Get the lever assembled to the white half and the other parts assembled to the black half, then slowly introduce the two halves.
The offset pin on the lever has to go into the groove in the signal light slider (which was white on my switch), then you have to come in a bit sideways to grab the slot of the highbeam slider with the tab at the end of the signal light lever. Once you grab it, you can press the switch halves straight together, giving the signal light detent finger a bit of a nudge with the end of a screwdriver, to get it to snap into its spot, and then install the four screws.
Getting this switch together is about as complicated as it sounds, though doing it wrong four times in a row can really help you to get it right.
I figure if you read this first, you may get it on the second or third try
Good luck, and thanks for this thread - it was very helpful to me, and I hope that this post gives back just a little bit.