Write up: Hd Offroad No Lift Shackle Relocators - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 05-03-2013, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
Mike934
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Write up: Hd Offroad No Lift Shackle Relocators

Well guys after experiencing every other cherokee guy does I figured I'd do relocators. Except I didnt want added lift. That lead to searching, found out Brian at HD offroad was coming out with a "no lift" version. These also offer 1" lift if you use the correct holes.
So I picked up a set, I believe I was on of the first, if not the first to grab these from him. So heres a write up for you guys.

1st step was receiving them. Extremely quick shipping. They are some heavy little suckers, all 1/4" steel, very very clean edges! Sorry no picks of me unboxing them.

2nd step get the hell outside & take your pile apart. My piles under major reconstruction, so please bear with that.
(mmmm deavers!!!)





3rd step admire stock shackle box....say good bye!


GONE! Now I had it easy with a plasma but you can get to it fairly easy with a 4" grinder. Making slits and cutting smaller chuncks at a time would be easiest.




4th step is to grind down excess stock shackle box to get the box to sit flush. ALSO NOTE the white chalk where the stock welded nut is, youll be cutting out that half moon portion!!!


And that portion cut. You do this because the closest 2 or farthest 2 pending how you look at it, the bolt goes directly in that section. So in order to use either of those holes, you need that portion cut! I say do it before you install it & have to take it back apart




step 5 is bolt the box in using supplied hardware. You get 2 new shackle bolts with nylon nuts. You get 2 shorter grade 5 bolts that go through the stock shackle weld nut. You get quite a few grade 8 washers & 2 other grade 5's that go "through the floor".
shorter grade 5 goes in stock weld nut location.


black bolts going up through the floor we also grade 5's.



step 6 is not 100% nessasary but will tie thing together better! Anyway the step is to drill the 2 holes through the floor. If you have carpet now would be the time to lift/move it out of the way!!!! 1/2" bit, drill from the bottom up. So lay undernether your rig and drill upwards, theres 2 precut holes in the boxes so you CANNOT get it wrong!
again no supplied picture for this step as we used a plasma the entire time! But its extremely straight forward!

step 7 is to bolt on the floor plate to the shackle box using the 2 holes you just cut. I opted to weld my plates to the floor since it will be a tie in for my cage & shock hoops. So grind & wire wheel away if you intend to weld them in like so.



step 7.2 is to cut the supplied plates to fit back there. They come rectangular & they don't fit because the gas tank filler & box shape. You cut just the ends off 1 side like so. You can see a uncut plate vs the cut plate.

Showing where you will have contact with the plate.

I do believe Brian may have these precut for you in future!

step 7.3 bolted it in place. I added the locking washers, I suggest you do to so those bolts dont loosen up over time.

Also plenty of clearence after notching the plate!


Step 7.4 step back and take get artsy with your camera
Those are led pods hooked up to batteries btw.

Plasma'ing out the passenger side.

You can see the HD offroad stiffeners waiting to go in in the lower right porting of this picture!

Welding in floor plates.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorcharge View Post
Overlanders do it over land via overlanding because they like to overland?
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post #2 of 5 Old 05-03-2013, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
Mike934
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This post will be about small issues we ran into.

first issue was that we werent sure if the box should but butted flat against the rear crossmember, or if we should leave a 1/4" gap like Brian did in his write up which can be seen here.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1097581
In his write up the box is about 1/4" away from the rear crossmember & it clears the 2 stock bumper weld nuts. Which can be seen very clearly in his 3rd picture.

I wanted mine to sit flush to the rear crossmember so they can be welded in as well. in order to achieve this, I had to not the box in 2 places to clear the welded nuts for the stock bumper mounts. NOTE: aftermarket bumpers also use that mount, so notch your box, DO NOT cut those off or you may screw yourself out of mounting your bumper!
This can be seen here. This can be done much cleaner, we did it quickly with a plasma! This does not effect the boxes strength or intregrity what so ever! you can also see the bolts that go up through the floor in this picture.



Box bolted in & ready for paint! Note how these boxes sit flush to the floor & the rear crossmember. When tacked in place these will tie everything back there together. The are bolt to the floor & rear frame, I tacked mine to the rear crossmember, the frame & the floor as well. Its VERY sturdy!


Painted up.


Little hard to make out, but you can clearly see the stock bumper bolt still in place, if you close enough you can see the roundish notch cut to clear it!





Last step is reinstall everything you took off. For me I didnt get a picture because nothing went back together lol. Reinstall your shackle & set it up so your at a 45* angle. Mine will be apart for reconstruction and frame plating! I love these things, very sturdy, great design & couldn't be happier to have 1 more Hd offroad product on my jeep! Thanks again Brian!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorcharge View Post
Overlanders do it over land via overlanding because they like to overland?
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post #3 of 5 Old 05-03-2013, 10:30 PM
Azzy
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Interesting take on the relocation. Love the amount of mounting points to choose from too. Dare i say that with a bit of a size increase in the top plate, you would have a good rear cage mount spot?

Im the guy who makes new gauges, check out our gallery at Teamadw.com
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post #4 of 5 Old 05-03-2013, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
Mike934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azzy View Post
Interesting take on the relocation. Love the amount of mounting points to choose from too. Dare i say that with a bit of a size increase in the top plate, you would have a good rear cage mount spot?
Oh most definitely. The top holes are for no lift, the lowers add 1" of lift. I chose these because the ill be doing a custom shackle to get the travel I wanted while bumping stopping the leafs flat. So only under hard hits will they arch slightly negative, under normal or moderate use they shouldn't ever get negative.

That's what those plates were intended for I believe, according to brian. I also agree if you truly intend to run a cage off it make the plate a bit bigger to spread the force over a bigger area. Ill be using those as a tie in for shock hoops. 14 or 16" 7100s through the floor for jeepspeed type stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorcharge View Post
Overlanders do it over land via overlanding because they like to overland?
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post #5 of 5 Old 07-23-2013, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
Mike934
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Bumping this up, as that rear plate will actually become a part of my rear shock hoop to holster a set of 17" 9300 4 tube bypasses with some extra goodies. 5 sets ever mad like this, basically a Blackhawks pro type from what I was told.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorcharge View Post
Overlanders do it over land via overlanding because they like to overland?
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