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Unread 10-07-2004, 11:23 PM   #1
wrecked
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What are you opinions on this kit?

My mom suggested that I lift my Xj instead of selling is... SO i am.

I currently have a 3" old man emus and they work great.

Is the rustys 6" kit going to be good or bad?
What will i need to buy inorderto get the kits installed right with no vibrations or troubles with gears.

http://justliftkits.com/inc/pdetail?v=1&pid=1042

I want to keep the price kinda low and this seems like a good area.

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Unread 10-07-2004, 11:59 PM   #2
yennerXJ
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I say go for it and sell me the OME kit!

In all seriousness I dont know what a good setup will be.
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Unread 10-08-2004, 12:12 AM   #3
balloo93
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This is going to start another one of the infamous Rusty's product reliability debates. Keep it clean boys.

IMO I'd look into the Full-Traction LA or the Clayton's LA

http://www.mosesludel.com/store/product.php?id=52
http://full-traction.com/detail.php?...=98&NOTES=9,10
http://www.claytonoffroad.com/
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Unread 10-08-2004, 12:40 AM   #4
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I second the Full Traction kit.
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Unread 10-08-2004, 12:47 PM   #5
wrecked
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So both Rustys and Rough Country are bad kits to get?

I was looking for a full-traction kit since it was mentioned in my last thread, but after searching on google for a couple of days I could not find anyone that carried them for an XJ.

Now that you've posted links, I will probably order that.
If I went with the full traction kit from MosesLudel.com, I will need to get a SYE and CV driveshaft as well. Anything else?

As I'm looking at what they call a "Short Tailshaft/Fixed Yoke Conversion" which as I'm reading is basically a SYE. WHich one do I choose? My engine is a 1990 I-6 and the transfer case is stock.

I'm not finding any "CV driveshaft" things on here. Do i need to phone in my order to get the right size?

With a 6 inch lift should I go with 33" or 35." I dont want to trim the fenders. But I'm not thinking that I'll ever be flexing the rig so that the tries are stuffed all the way up. I just dont want thme to rub at full turn and on most bumps and dips and ruts.

I'm sorry that all the same questions are being asked from my last thread but I didnt get too many answers in my last one that really helped me out.
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Unread 10-08-2004, 12:54 PM   #6
ChiTown'01XJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yennerXJ
I say go for it and sell me the OME kit!
Looks like we may have a bidding war. As soon as I read this thread I thought the same thing.
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Unread 10-08-2004, 12:56 PM   #7
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You'll probably want to regear also.
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Unread 10-08-2004, 01:39 PM   #8
wrecked
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4.56 with 33's right, what about 35's? WHich tire size would you all recomend?

Upgrading the axles from stock? Would that be a good thing to do?(its a 1990 laredo). I was looking at these. http://www.mosesludel.com/store/product.php?id=131 Will they work front and back?
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Unread 10-08-2004, 01:43 PM   #9
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are you willing to trim the fenders?
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Unread 10-08-2004, 02:12 PM   #10
wrecked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepboi
are you willing to trim the fenders?
In a previous post in this thread I stated that I do not want to trim. However, if its absolutley rquired I will, but I dont want to cut much.

I also explained about not caring too much about stuffing.

I want tires and lift height, and tire size that will be the best for a daily driver. I really like the tall wide cherokee look though.
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Unread 10-08-2004, 04:58 PM   #11
balloo93
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I'm gonna need the options on eth TC shifter. If it's a NP231 then you have SEVERAL options. If you have a NP242 then you will have fewer options.

IMO the RE Hack-N-tap will give you the strength you'll need for 33's. You can get a Tom Wood's, Woody's, or RE CV-ds made to fit the lift. I read on another site about using a 96 ford explorer front DS (www.jeeponly.com).

As for the rear, IMO (take it for what it's worth) dump the D35 you have and get a 97+ Jeep Chrysler 8.25 rear end. These units are 29spline, and the housings are a LOT sturdier than the D35 with is prone to flexing. New axle shafts aren't going to cut it. A Superior Axle Super35 AND a Superior Axle D35 Truss would make it able to handle 33's, but for that price you can find a ChryCo 8.25 (it will bolt right up, no mods needed) and just tell the DS shop you'll use those measurements and that rearend.

There are a couple of other options as far as a axle swap (8.8, D44) but these units are usually more expensive and some require modification.

If you get a 8.25, get the yoke straps, ebrake cables, and U bolts for the leaf springs. Most kits will have new ones, but better safe than sorry.
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Unread 10-08-2004, 05:30 PM   #12
mbood82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecked
4.56 with 33's right, what about 35's? WHich tire size would you all recomend?

Upgrading the axles from stock? Would that be a good thing to do?(its a 1990 laredo). I was looking at these. http://www.mosesludel.com/store/product.php?id=131 Will they work front and back?
I'd upgrade to a 8.8 or a D44 before the 8.25, there are more options when it comes to lockers and stuff I think for those axles. As far as gears are concerned, I just regeared to 4.56s with 33s and she loves it. On the highway though I'm turning 2700 at 75ish, so that's a little to high for most people. Unless you have the automatic, or you plan on going to 35s, I'd aim for 4.10s. Which you can get stock in an 8.8 and the D30, so you could just pick up new axles for each end from a junkyard, probably for less then the price of the gears and install, and install them.
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Unread 10-09-2004, 01:49 AM   #13
wrecked
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Heres the deal. I have really no time to put this stuff in so I'm having one of my parents friends do it(they run a shop) and that way it will be cheaper. Go to school until 2 then work and dont get home until 7 and by then its too dark to work on anything and I cant use the garage. I work everyday, weekends too.

So basically, I want to be able to pick stuff off a mail order site, order it and take it to the shop to be installed. Yeah, I know its not as great as doing it yourself but, I dont have the time.

I dont know what transfer case I have. It's the stock one that comes on a 1990 Cherokee Laredo with the I-6 engine. Its an automatic, not one of the High Output ones. It's got the simple, 2high-4high-4low, 4 wheel drive selecter option pieces.

I dont want to spend a million dollars working on getting this to the height that I want it to be. But I dont want to run into big problems. So, here are the questions...

1. With the stock axles, how long will the axles I have now last with 33's on them? I dont do any real hardcore off-roading. Its fairly simple stuff, hill climps, small creek crossings, bit of mud, not super deep stuff though.

2. With the information provided above can you tell me what transfer case I have and what SYE I need?

3. Gears are 4.56 for normal, right? What was it then about an automatic and 4.10?

4. Are there any sites that offer the axles I want, gears, SYE, CV-drive shaft and lift all in the same site. I cannot find any.

Sorry for taking up space aasking questions that you feel may be stupid.
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Unread 10-09-2004, 02:02 AM   #14
balloo93
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1. I have read about guys running D35's without breaking them, but I just wouldn't trust it. Mud can wreak havock on a axle. If your friend has a shop, then have them do the searching for a 97+ Chrysler 8.25 rear axle. It's a direct bolt on, no mods and that axle will handle 33's much better than the D35. Most of the time shops get a better price at junk yards anyway.

2. You have a Command-trac NP231 TC. I would say go with the RE Hack-N-Tap SYE an the matching CV-driveshaft they sell.

3. You can run 4.10's but you will feel a power loss with a 90 XJ. I would recommend the 4.56's that were suggested.

4. Try giving Dirk a call at DPG and see what he can do for you as far as getting you what you want. Beyond that, you would have to shop around. Pick up a couple of 4x4 mags and see the adds running in them.

Beyond that, I'd say Rubicon Express for the SYE and CV-ds. Randy's ring and pinion for the gears and install kits.


No problem about the questions.
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Unread 10-09-2004, 07:26 AM   #15
jeeponly
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For a 90 model XJ, the Tcase isn't sealed, so I wouldn't bother with the H&T. A HD SYE isn't that much more money. If your gonna run 33s on a nonHO 4.0, you'll definitely want 4.56s, or maybe 4.88s. Don't put any money into the D35, swap it out for a stronger unit. I swapped in a 8.8 for strength, locker availability, and disc brakes. The stock brakes, especially on the older XJs, are pretty weak. When you add 33s or 35s they just don't cut it anymore. Discs in the rear make a huge difference.

HTH
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