What size of tires - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 24 Old 10-29-2012, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
XJGuy07
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What size of tires

Well, I just got my 3.5 in rubicon express super flex kit for my 92 cherokee but I dont know what size of tires to put on. I would like to get 32s or 33s. I dont mind trimming fender flares, I might even just take them off. I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO! And if I got 33s that aren't any wider then 11.5 inches, would I have to regear?

Could see some pictures? Thanks

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post #2 of 24 Old 10-29-2012, 11:00 PM
GetLifted
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Yes re gear. 32s stuff nicer on a lower lift and are better for 4.10s
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post #3 of 24 Old 10-30-2012, 12:10 AM
DoctorTim
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33" tires using 4.10 gears is actually very close to what you want. width of the tire doesnt effect gearing. for stock gears i wouldnt go more than 31s for a daily driver, even then you're the slowest guy on the streets because of ****ty acceleration.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/96-xj-build-hybrid-1311863/

96 XJ, geared, 8.8, 5", 33s, dash
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post #4 of 24 Old 10-30-2012, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
XJGuy07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJ-Tim View Post
33" tires using 4.10 gears is actually very close to what you want. width of the tire doesnt effect gearing. for stock gears i wouldnt go more than 31s for a daily driver, even then you're the slowest guy on the streets because of ****ty acceleration.
Ya, acceleration isnt quite what you would call fast. haha

Would it be a pain to regear?
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post #5 of 24 Old 10-30-2012, 08:12 AM
kenC
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IMO i wouldnt go any bigger than 31's on stock gearing.im running 32s on 4.10s and the gearing is a touch lower than stock which is fine for me in the mountains.i drove it with 32s on stock gears and i drove around in d3 that way it wouldnt try to kick it in overdrive.you can run 32s on stock gearing if u live in a relatively flat area and dont plan to tow much but there will be a noticeable decrease in power
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post #6 of 24 Old 10-30-2012, 08:26 AM
kenC
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i did everything on my jeep myself except for regear,im friends with a local shop that charged me 350. for labor and parts were 650ish
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post #7 of 24 Old 11-06-2012, 06:44 PM
DoctorTim
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I found 4.11/4.10 axles in the junkyard. got the front HPD30 for 200, the rear Ford 8.8 for 250. sold both my old axles for 340. I spent $110 for upgraded gears and beefy rear axle. If you can grind and weld you can do this. also, working on differentials is overrated. its just wrenching and basic knowledge. I just rebuilt my 8.8 last weekend and it was a lot easier than most people will admit to. all you need is a few rented tools, online research, and a day or two.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/96-xj-build-hybrid-1311863/

96 XJ, geared, 8.8, 5", 33s, dash
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post #8 of 24 Old 11-06-2012, 09:49 PM
ltrail
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I'll be on 38's with 3.5" lift soon. I'd recommend it! lol

I was really pretty surprised when I had 4.5"/32's and a locker what trouble i could get into.

84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
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post #9 of 24 Old 11-06-2012, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
XJGuy07
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How on earth can you fit 38s on only a 3.5 in lift? That's awesome!
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post #10 of 24 Old 11-06-2012, 10:21 PM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJGuy07 View Post
How on earth can you fit 38s on only a 3.5 in lift? That's awesome!
By the same method I'm gonna run 42s on ~5" lift (have to go that high due to the axles I'll be using) needs a built rig with full widths though..

Anyways, sheetmetal cutting is the way to go. You only really want to lift the Jeep as little as possible to gain some uptravel, and run as big tires as possible for under-axle clearance and bellyheight. I've run 35s on 3.5"-4" lift on stock width axles, that is easily doable without any welding (rear cut 'n fold and front fenders trimmed).

As mentioned, if you're gonna run 32s or 33s you will need to re-gear anyways. Go 4.56/ 33s straight away, you'll like it. That way if you ever will go to 35s you can run 'em, 4.11s on 35s suck. Heck, 4.11s suck on 33s as well. I'm running 4.56 gears on 32s on my DD ZJ 5.9 and I couldn't be happier

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #11 of 24 Old 11-06-2012, 11:39 PM
ltrail
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I traded my stock rear fender wells for 2wd Chevy front wells(trim to fit). On the front currently I have no fenders or inner wells. All tube replacement(were trimmed fenders there before) but i wanted to move coil buckets and shock mount. Still kicking the idea of coilovers around.

Its all about the research. Ask how the rear end is.missing leaf springs.. I'll tell you. lol
In reality you don't want to be up in the sky. 3.5-4.5" is good. From there just go bigger rubber and trim/fab some. go wider instead of taller, you will love the stability.
Timo is getting extreme across the pond.

84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
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post #12 of 24 Old 11-07-2012, 05:05 AM
moses21
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i don't know why everyone says to regear with 33's. I can only see regreaing if you want to run 35's. I got 33's and they don't feel that much different. I wouldn't waste my money on regearing.
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post #13 of 24 Old 11-07-2012, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by moses21 View Post
i don't know why everyone says to regear with 33's. I can only see regreaing if you want to run 35's. I got 33's and they don't feel that much different. I wouldn't waste my money on regearing.
My 5.9 felt like a lazy dog on 32s, an xj with the 4.0 and 33s would be close to unbearable. I could see it work on flat ground doing 55mph on a stick shift, but that's about it.

Without re-gearing you will see a 2-3mpg increase in mileage (not such a big deal over there, but here across the pond with 9+ dollars per gallon it adda up really quickly) , and you will also heat up and strain the already hot- running 4.0 and aw4 quite a bit more.

It's also much better offroad to have shorter gearing, makes going over obstacles a lot easier and gives you more controlon what you're doing. It's not waste of money to re-gear.

edit: Corrected a couple spelling errors.. too damn hard to use the touch- screen on the cell phone

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #14 of 24 Old 11-07-2012, 08:20 AM
DoctorTim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moses21 View Post
i don't know why everyone says to regear with 33's. I can only see regreaing if you want to run 35's. I got 33's and they don't feel that much different. I wouldn't waste my money on regearing.
lol this guy...

needs to rethink his trolling strategy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/96-xj-build-hybrid-1311863/

96 XJ, geared, 8.8, 5", 33s, dash
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post #15 of 24 Old 11-07-2012, 08:31 AM
GetLifted
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Wonder if i can fit 44s with my 8" lift if i regear to 4.56? 4.56s will turn ANYTHING!!!!!
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