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Unread 06-05-2013, 10:20 AM   #1
fishforlife37
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
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What else should i do!! Bad shifts lost power

00 xj with 156000 miles so the other day I floored which I rarely do gas is I precious for that! But I revved up in first gear to find it not shifting and It did this in every gear.. And after I'd let my foot up to let it change gears if i would give it gas again it would drop a gear and hover at 4000 rpms.. I've also noticed a pretty decent loss of power and gas mileage recently I used to be able to squeeze 225 out of my tank now I can't even break the 200s now i went ahead and changed my tranny fluid(not filter because of the dipstick(found that out the hard way)) and my tps and i recently changed my cam position sensor and my crank position sensor( what pain in the a$$ that was) other issues I'm not sure would be a contributing factor or not, very very very minimum coolant leak, and a strange sludge build up on my passenger side of the engine before aNd after pics included, and also very strange starts warm or cold it'll start very hard one day and the next start like its brand new, I don't know if these are all related or not, any help would be great, any questions please ask I'm sure I left some info out
Thanks


image-1762325656.jpg



image-1582563751.jpg

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Unread 06-05-2013, 11:10 AM   #2
CJ7-Tim
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Test the TPS.

TPS TESTING

You may have one or more of these Physical Symptoms:

1) The engine loses power and is stalling.
2) The engine will idle, but may die as soon as you press the gas pedal. When driving, it seems as if all power is gone.
3) Sometimes it feels as if the transmission is failed or isn't shifting properly, if at all. If you quickly jump on the gas you might be able to get the transmission to shift, but it won’t shift properly by itself. Shifting manually, the transmission goes through all the gears.

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics. The TPS function should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected.

TPS TEST

You should have 5 volts going into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It is best to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. At idle, TPS output voltage should be greater than .26 volts but less than .95 volts. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT. The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.


The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture, and vibration, leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following:

-Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".

- High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.

-Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.

-Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.

- Engine Misfire: A faulty TPS can report values outside the acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessive misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 05:32 AM   #3
fishforlife37
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Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim
Test the TPS.

TPS TESTING

You may have one or more of these Physical Symptoms:

1) The engine loses power and is stalling.
2) The engine will idle, but may die as soon as you press the gas pedal. When driving, it seems as if all power is gone.
3) Sometimes it feels as if the transmission is failed or isn't shifting properly, if at all. If you quickly jump on the gas you might be able to get the transmission to shift, but it won’t shift properly by itself. Shifting manually, the transmission goes through all the gears.

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics. The TPS function should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected.

TPS TEST

You should have 5 volts going into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It is best to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. At idle, TPS output voltage should be greater than .26 volts but less than .95 volts. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT. The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture, and vibration, leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following:

-Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".

- High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.

-Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.

-Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.

- Engine Misfire: A faulty TPS can report values outside the acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessive misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
Just changed the tps Monday and retested and tested good
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Unread 06-06-2013, 11:14 AM   #4
CJ7-Tim
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Did the problem exist before the new TPS, or did the new TPS cause the problem ? Did you buy a genuine Jeep TPS ?
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Unread 06-06-2013, 11:42 AM   #5
Jeep_Tech
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I would readjust the tranny kickdown cable. its conected to the throttle body. just push the button in twist the throttle all the way open relase button release throttle body
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Unread 06-06-2013, 11:43 AM   #6
fishforlife37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim
Did the problem exist before the new TPS, or did the new TPS cause the problem ? Did you buy a genuine Jeep TPS ?
Yeah the new tps didn't change anything
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Unread 06-06-2013, 11:54 AM   #7
Jeep_Tech
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did u readjust the kickdown cable?
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Unread 06-06-2013, 12:53 PM   #8
fishforlife37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep_Tech
did u readjust the kickdown cable?
How do I do this?
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Unread 06-06-2013, 12:57 PM   #9
Jeep_Tech
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look where the accelorator cable attaches to the throttle body. the second line hooked to the throttle body is the kickdown cable. there is a button on it near where its held my the brackt. push the button down, while holding the button twist the throttle all the way open with your hand(engine off for this), release the button then release the throttle. then the cable is reset and you should test drive
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Unread 06-06-2013, 01:04 PM   #10
fishforlife37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep_Tech
look where the accelorator cable attaches to the throttle body. the second line hooked to the throttle body is the kickdown cable. there is a button on it near where its held my the brackt. push the button down, while holding the button twist the throttle all the way open with your hand(engine off for this), release the button then release the throttle. then the cable is reset and you should test drive
No effect:/
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Unread 06-06-2013, 01:14 PM   #11
Jeep_Tech
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Sounds like an internal transmission issue then sorry
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Unread 06-06-2013, 06:08 PM   #12
CJ7-Tim
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I highly doubt there are any transmission issues. I suggest you check the TPS wires and wire plug for corrosion, failed wire splices, short or open circuits, and chafed insulation.

You did buy a genuine Jeep TPS, right ? Cheap crappy "Lifetime Warranty" parts are often out of specification or even failed right out of the box. Many times they have a short service life before they fail. Always buy top qualityreplacement parts and genuine Jeep sensors.
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Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ......

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Unread 06-07-2013, 03:51 PM   #13
Dwatts5250
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I had a batch of crap gas did that to me. Ran some chevron thru it, changed the plugs, & dizzy & rotor (cap was bad) works like a champ.
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