Want to reutilize a 1996 Jeep 4.0ltr: - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-06-2017, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
Rustaplenty96
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Want to reutilize a 1996 Jeep 4.0ltr:

Hi there. My name is Rob Swallows in Farmington, IL. I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport and have driven this vehicle from about 17k to just barely over 300k absolutely trouble free. The Jeep is beyond reasonable repairs, (body wise) from rust so I would like to reutilize the engine elsewhere. It still runs very well, burns no oil between changes, (5k intervals, Mobil 1 synthetic since new) and would still be driven if it had floorboards left, which it does not in back. Once I started losing things out of the back, I ceased driving it.

Would anyone have an electrical diagram of what is needed to make this engine run using the original donor parts without incorporating what is not needed? It is 4X4, automatic transmission, and I would like to install the engine into an older rotary screw air compressor I have with a very tired Continental flat head six cylinder engine. I can make the adapter to drive the compressor from the engine and only need about 90 flywheel hp, so this engine should be up to the task.

Certainly hate to come onto a website just to ask for a favor but when I start to part this thing out I'll really treat those whom help me right on some parts. Nothing at all wrong with the Jeep except the floorboards and rockers. Fenders, doors radiator support, lift gate, transmission, rear axle and transfer case all function as they should. The interior is yet pretty clean also albeit dirty from normal use. Never wrecked, or bent in any way since I've had it and all power functions work as they should.

Thanks,

Rob

I suppose there is a PM option someplace and once I get five posts I'll be able to post my email address which is the best way to get hold of me.

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post #2 of 8 Old 09-11-2017, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
Rustaplenty96
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Thanks for your consideration. After looking over the electrical prints for the vehicle it really is quite rudimentary to allow the engine to run in a different application having a good running platform to start from. Broken into segments, the task is not a daunting one at all.

Will be nice to have the easy starting fuel injected engine replacing the cantankerous original.

Rob
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-13-2017, 08:21 PM
rjbruzan
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The fuel tank with pump will be a bit of a pain but a real good use of this engine.
Please show pics when its complete.
Ron

Of all the things Ive lost
The one I miss most is my mind

Its like a fart in a windstorm
It smells good but thats about it

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post #4 of 8 Old 09-14-2017, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
Rustaplenty96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjbruzan View Post
The fuel tank with pump will be a bit of a pain but a real good use of this engine.
Please show pics when its complete.
Ron
The current engine uses a gravity feed to the carburetor. Modification to the original rounded corner, rectangular tank won't be too difficult as I plan to plasma the pump mount flange from the original Jeep tank, and stitch it into the original to install the pump. I'll reuse much of the original parts to keep costs in check with less prototyping. I've not measured, but the original tank has a mechanical float and direct reading "Rochester" gauge which is working. I hope to keep this in place. If clearance is a problem, I'll run an electric level gauge.
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-14-2017, 06:17 AM
rjbruzan
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Sounds like you are not some rube trying to make this work. I will be looking forward to this build.


Ron

Of all the things Ive lost
The one I miss most is my mind

Its like a fart in a windstorm
It smells good but thats about it

Registered Six Offender
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-14-2017, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
Rustaplenty96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjbruzan View Post
Sounds like you are not some rube trying to make this work. I will be looking forward to this build.


Ron
Well thanks. I'm actually an engineer whom isn't an educated idiot on "daddy's dime".

I have several ideas I'm floating but need the basics in place before moving to fast.
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-17-2017, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
Rustaplenty96
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I sent over photos of the ECM/PCM and harnesses, along with an electrical schematic copied from a factory service manual with pinouts, color codes, etc. to a buddy whom is an electrical draftsman. He'll clean the diagram up to be right professional looking and easy to follow. The engine runs fine now and fires right off but it's in the prototype stage so looks nothing like the finished product with cut/bobbed wires, wire ties, wire nuts, etc. prevelant. I was attempting to dual purpose the crankshaft position sensor to drive the electronic governor but it loads down too much to allow the engine to run so I suppose the governor keeps the engine at "0" LOL.

I stripped the electrical harnesses from the vehicle complete and will attempt to reutilize them as much as possible to stay with the published color coding. Going to need to weld on a boss for drilling and tapping a 3/4"X16tpi hole to mount a new hall effect transducer, (pickup) for sensing the flywheel tooth count to drive the governor inputs.

Going to need to put a bit of thought to driving the compressor as the engine needs to turn at about 3K where compressor input speed needs to be about 2300. A reducer could be built but that would add weight, cost, and complexity to the project. Belts? not really as using belts for transmission of power is limited to about 8hp per belt. There are other factors involved, but staying under 8hp per drive belt keeps things in check.
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-23-2017, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
Rustaplenty96
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Had a buddy make a flywheel housing adapter, (Jeep 4.0 to SAE #2) which was plasma cut from 1-1/2" aluminum 6061 plate to bolt the engine up to the compressor. I will need to acquire a manual transmission flywheel as to use the automatic's flexplate and torque converter presented a clearance problem driving the compressor. A short driveline using small Spicer 1310 series universal joints will work fine, and should fit the the torque requirement. I have larger, but had these needing expended.

Pretty slick to start from a cardboard tracing of both mating surfaces to the finished product of a single hunk of aluminum.

I did speak with Worthington whom is the manufacturer of the compressor and they state it can be run at 3250rpm safely if I increase the oil supply and add an additional cooler to the set. No problem as this is a bit less expensive to incorporate than messing with gear reduction for a one off project.

Coming along pretty nicely now and should be making air in a couple of weeks.
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