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chris87xj 05-13-2013 11:04 PM

***Useful write-ups by forum members***
I made a spot here to help keep track of some of the great write-ups done by our fellow forum members.
If you find one that helps you out, please click the thumbs-up button in the lower right of the first post as a small gesture of appreciation for their taking the time and effort to write it up.
Send me a PM if you have any questions, comments or nominations thanks!

chris87xj 05-14-2013 12:44 AM

How to find all XJ parts on clearance at Rock Auto - by V1GiLaNtE

Cherokee stock rims encylopedia - by drew and not u

Jeep fluids specs - by Billet

Shock bolt replacement: a fix with pics (Heavy) - by XJ Xtreme

The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread *All Read* - by XJK

Hood release cable replacment - by AmnSyd

4.0L Injector swap - by dukie564

Installing JK shocks on my XJ (write-up) - by freemans97XJ

'97 XJ Taurus fan swap installation - by justanotherjpr

HD Offroad no-lift shackle relocation boxes - by Mike934

H.D. Offroad relocation brackets V2 installation by dukie564

How to mount your XJ rear bumper inside the uni-frame - by justanotherjpr

How to replace the turn signal switch on '97+ XJs - by the weirdo

Servicing a turnsignal/hi-lo beam stalk switch - by Azzy

XJ rear hatch dome light switch repair - by M35A2

Cutting and folding rear fenders - by 89SAFARIXJ

Cut And Fold Rear Lower Quarter Panels - The Right Way! by Paraleyes

Installing a 1996 XJ alarm system - by Loveland-WJ

Fixing 97+ Window Lock Switch for Dummies - by itasor

Child Safety Switch Bypass for XJ Windows **Write Up** - by 303_XJ

Removing stubborn rear leaf springs - by Azzy

Transmission mount replacement - by Mean Max

97 XJ Blower Motor removal/replacement - by mortalenema

Grand Cherokee 136 amp alternator upgrade - by Razor.

Greasing the slip-joint on 96+ XJs! - by cricketo99

How to extend the rear differential vent - by dukie564

Starting system diagnostics for no-crank situation - by dukie564

Durango steering box and ZJ tie-rod install on an XJ - by dukie564

A/C to OBA conversion write-up - by RussoGuitar

Installing ZJ rear seat headrests in an XJ - by TPI Monte SS

Installing a C-Rok inner Steering Support brace - by bmyohn

ZJ Rear Disc Conversion to 8.25" Write Up - The Whole Truth!!! - by TPI Monte SS

blower moter blown melted reistor switch wire fix - by 1995sport

Fuel Sender FIX---WRITE-UP - by 79chiefs

Crash Course in Brain Surgery - Replacing ECU capacitors - by sasquachYJ

Fixing bad caps in sealed type XJ PCMs by - LagartoJuancho

XJ coil spring rates - by gunselman

Basic Maintenance - 4.0L serpentine belt tension adjustment - by Mean Max

Headliner Redux - by kzjim

Ben's "you already have a relay box" Relay Box - by WKdeuce

Stock Cherokee tire carrier information - by Holder350

Refurbishing the NSS - by troubled96xj

Fixing the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) - by BC4x4

Removing 97+ doors with power *write-up* - by sharpie

The 0331 head swap thread - by jeepkid03

The Official XJ 4.0L Motor Mount Thread - by NW99XJ

AW4 Solenoid replacement write-up (no 56k). - by freemans97XJ

How to: Fixed grooved caliper brackets on a Dana 30 - by justanotherjpr

My ACTUAL Evaporator/Heater Core Removal/Installation Thread..... - by xjguy98 & f430fan

Harmonic Balancer Replacement "How-to" - by graxirena

XJ Clock Spring Repair Write-up - by BIGGJERRYC

Replacing the Door Check - by morrie

How to reindex the camshaft position sensor - by Kevin108

Aussie Install Chrysler 8.25 29sp Write-Up - by JeepN4KC

Complete Instructions for Eliminating Oil Filter Adaptor on Jeep XJ Cherokee - by Darp

Install a new style front clip on your early generation XJ - by fedx95

How To: CPS Install for XJ 97+ with AW4 - by V1GiLaNtE

**Writeup** Installing Cruise Control In Your 97+ XJ - by bmyohn

Valve cover gasket replacement...lots of pics - by samger2

Replaced Engine Ground Strap *Writeup* Lots of picks!! - by Jmila1901

Rebuilding The NP-231 Linkage - by Hudson

Dual battery/isolated batteries/winch/welding - by JeepHammer

Headlights info - by mschi772

Winter Tires - by mschi772

For those of you wanting to do the Peugeot to AX-15 swap this thread is for you! - by goneboating06

XJ: WJ door handle swap - by Hussler

Dual battery/isolated batteries/winch/welding - by JeepHammer

Redline Hoodlift Installation Write-Up - by Charley3

Have a transfer case shifter rattle? here is the FIX and TSB & PICS - by x99j

How To: Gauge Cluster Swap / Odometer Recalibration (Lots of Pics) - by TMXONR

97+ XJ Interior LED Conversion - by Higgs98XJ

Replacing Fuel Filter On A 97+ (XJ) - by XJ99

Adding heaters to non-heated XJ seats - by trevsbmw

Repairing the hatch pivot wiring; how did you do it? - by StreckXJ

BASIC WIRING 101, Getting You Started! by - JeepHammer

Heater Core replacement: What I learned - by FairlanePhil

How do I get the bushing into the leaf spring?? - by ar4130

Dana 30 Axle Shaft and Wheel Bearing Replacement write-up - by ArloGuthroJeep and mtsgsd

Renix Fan Hub/Pulley Bearing Replacement - by Skerr

Factory fog lights in an '00 XJ that did not come with them - by Ralph77

How To: Stripped Caliper Pin/Bolt In Knuckle - by imthehink

How To Rebuild/Recondition Your Headlight/Dimmer Switch (97+ XJ's) - by NW99XJ

chris87xj 07-17-2013 11:26 PM

Renix and other related info:
If you own a Renix Jeep, you'll want to check this out. > Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips
Cruiser was a Service Manager and Shop Foreman at a Jeep dealership from 1980 through 1992 while Renix was the powerhouse of jeeps. :tea:


Originally Posted by cruiser54 (Post 12728980)
Thread Index by Post#
Revised 03-09-2014
Instructions have been written *
Photos included with instructions **

1 - Ground refreshing*
2 - C101 connector refreshing**
3 - Connector and relay/receptacle refreshing**
4 - Coil/ICM contacts*
5 - Checking sensor grounds*
6 - Sensor ground upgrade**
7 - CPS testing and adjusting**
8 - TPS testing and adjusting**
9 - ECU connector refreshing*
10- Trans plug connector refreshing*
11- Throttle body and IAC cleaning*
12- Setting your 4.0 to #1 TDC**
13- Renix Distributor indexing**
14- Restoring throttle butterfly adjustment*
15- Rear main seal diagnosis*
16- Vacuum test for exhaust restriction*
17- HO engine into Renix*
18- Improving the instrument panel ground**
19- Headlight harness installation*
20- 4WD shifting tips*
21- Renix EGR valve test*
22- Renix vacuum harnesses**
23- CPS timing advance mod**
24- 4.0 Engine date codes**
25- Valve cover mod**
26- Oil Filler cap Mod*
27- C101 Connector Elimination**
28- Improving Blower Motor performance**
29- Setting base idle
30- Renix O2 sensor diagnostics
31- Oil filler cap fix
32- Using water to remove carbon

More helpful Renix links...

chris87xj 09-20-2013 05:54 PM

Other Noteworthy Threads...
1 Attachment(s)
Budget builds: What Junkyard Parts will fit an XJ?

XJ Interior Mods? Whatcha got?

How my XJ gets 25 mpg highway from a few mods

The most awesome Gear Ratio Calculator on the net

Good breakdown of wheel hub components by CJ7-Tim

4.0 engine compatibility

Wheel and Stance Calculator

XJ Cherokee torque specs



Originally Posted by dmill89 (Post 16389937)

Yep, here are the 2-letter Jeep model designations if it interests you.

Jeep Model designations:
XJ: 84-01 "Regular" (not Grand) Cherokees.
SJ/FSJ: "Full Sized Jeeps" Wagnoeer (pre-84), Grand Wagoneer, Cherokee (pre-84), J-Series trucks
YJ: 87-95 Wrangler (1st gen)
TJ: 97-06 Wrangler (2nd gen)
JK: 07+ Wrangler (3rd gen)
ZJ: 93-98 Grand Cherokee (1st gen)
WJ: 99-04 Grand Cherokee (2nd gen)
WK: 05-10 Grand Cherokee (3rd gen)
WK2: 11+ Grand Cherokee (4th gen)
KJ: 02-07 Liberty (1st gen)
KK: 08-13 Liberty (2nd gen)
XK: Commander
MK: Patriot/Compass
MJ: Comanche (an XJ Cherokee based pickup)
CJ: "Civilian Jeep" pre-wrangler "Jeep Jeeps".
KL: The "new" 2014 Cherokee.


Originally Posted by cherox (Post 27349514)
What other Jeep wheels will fit your 1997-2001 XJ?

93-98 Grand Cherokee - ZJ = YES
87-2006 Wrangler - YJ TJ LJ = YES
2007-Present Compass/Patriot - MK = YES
02-08 Liberty - KJ KK = YES

99-Present Grand Cherokee - WJ WK WK2 = NO
06-10 Commander - XK = NO
2007-Present Wrangler JK/JKU = NO
14-Present Cherokee - KL = NO
15 Renegade - BU = NO

Check those engine codes

Originally Posted by tjwalker (Post 33482290)
The strategy for when you've seen a check engine light is always the same. Retrieve the codes. Even if the check engine light isn't currently on, there will be stored codes and those codes will point you in the right direction.

Below is how to easily do that. Post the EXACT codes here for comment.
Retrieving OBD codes on the Jeep Cherokee (XJ) OBD1 Models: 1991-1995

1) Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift lever
through all positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on and then off
(if equipped).

2) Turn engine off. Without starting engine again, turn
ignition on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Record 2-digit
fault codes as displayed by flashing MIL.

3) For example, fault code 23 is displayed as flash, flash,
4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause,
other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. When MIL begins
to flash fault codes, it cannot be stopped. Start over if count is

NOTE: A "5-5" will always occur to signal the end of the sequence. Some will flash the "1-2" code indicating a recent battery disconnect even if you haven't done it. Ignore these two codes, and mark down all others.
OBDII models

Starter clicks but won't crank

Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim (Post 35463145)
Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:

• dirty, corroded, damaged, or loose wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• leaving the lights on

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)

Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Load testing the alternator is still recommended.

Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.

How to test your CPS:

Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim (Post 19334234)

The starter engages, but it just won't fire up and run, correct ?

If that is the case, test the CPS.

The most likely cause of it cranks and cranks but won't start up is the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) located on the transmission bell housing. Often this part is also referred to as the CranKshaft Position Sensor (CKP). CPS/CKP failure is very common.The CPS/CKP can stop working with no warning or symptoms and the engine will not run or the engine may randomly stall for no apparent reason. Crank Position Sensors can have intermittent “thermal failure”. This means that the CPS/CKPfails when engine gets hot, but works again when it cools back down.

- Starter cranks and cranks but engine won't start up
- Fuel gauge and voltage gauges may not work or display properly.
- You sometimes will have No Bus displayed on the odometer after 30-60 seconds.
- A failed CPS/CKP may or may not throw a CEL trouble code.
- May have no spark at the spark plugs.
- Fuel pump should run and prime for 3-5 seconds.

If the CPS/CKP is failed sometimes the OBD-II code reader cannot make a connection to the computer or cannot read Check Engine Light/MIL codes because the CPS/CKPhas failed.

Diagnostic steps to confirm the CPS is the cause of your no-start

-You should be able to verify a bad cps, by unplugging it, and turning the ignition key to ON. If the voltage gauge and/or the fuel gauge now displays correctly, replace the CPS.
-Unplugging and reconnecting the CPS sensor where it connect to the main harness near the back of the intake manifold usually resets the ECU and if the jeep fires right up after doing this you can bet that the CPS is faulty and needs to be replaced.
-Exchange the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay with one of the other similar ones in the PDC to eliminate these relays as the cause of the no-start. Confirm that the fuel pump runs for 3-5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON.
-Eliminate the NSS as a cause of no start. Wiggle the shift lever at the same time you try to start. Put the transmission in Neutral and do the same. Do the reverse lights come on when the shifter is in Reverse?
-Inspect the wires and wire connectors at the O2 sensors on the exhausts pipe. A short circuit from melted insulation or from broken O2 sensor wires can blow a fuse and the ECU/ECM will lose communication.

If you buy a new CPS, get a genuine Jeep CPS, or the premium one from NAPA. Cheap crappy “Lifetime Warranty” parts are often out of specification or even failed right out of the box. They usually also have a shorter service life than better quality parts. Buy good quality repair parts and genuine Jeep sensors for best results.

Also remember to perform basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the battery and engine to the Cherokee's frame/body. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage or poor grounds and the ECM/ECU will behave oddly until you remedy this.

Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector (CPS/CKP)



CPS Testing

TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines
1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should beset to the 10K-or-2OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

TESTING PROCEDURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines
Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it.
Test # 2 - You'll need a helper for this one. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0- 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range.Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. (The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same!) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking.(That's between 1/2 and 1 volt AC.) If it's below .5vac, replace it.

The 2000 and 2001 will have the CPS in the same location on the bell housing, but the wire connector is on the passenger side, near or on top of the Transfer case, not as shown in the diagram below. Simply follow the wire from the sensor to the wire connector.



Originally Posted by CCKen (Post 21203449)
Here's pics of the grounds:

G100. The main battery to chassis ground.

G101. The main ground for the PCM, TCM, and O2S heaters.

An alternate chassis to battery ground path is through the radio interence suppression bonding strap on the firewall. It's worth checking/cleaning.

Check/clean these grounds and get back with your results.


Originally Posted by CCKen (Post 33166442)

Unit Bearing removal tool

Originally Posted by un4gvn1 (Post 31083177)

Ok boys & girls. Pay attention, I'm gonna lay a little homemade tool tip on y'all that makes unit bearing removal quick & easy. This will work on pretty much anything w/ unit bearings, no 12pt deep socket & power steering required (that always looks sketchy to me anyhow)

Here's the tool.

All that is required is a 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolt and a 1/2" coupling nut. One refinement that makes it a little easier to use is to embed a ball bearing in one end or the other. I haven't bothered on this one yet.

It's used like this...

Remove the lower two unit bearing bolts, loosen the upper bolt several turns. Unscrew your "screw jack" until it will stay put between the bolt & frame. Use two end wrenches (3/4" on bolt, 5/8" on nut) to unscrew the bolt in the coupling nut, jacking the unit bearing out. You will easily create a gap that will allow a pry or screwdriver to finish the job.

This mod is worth the effort when you make up the tool. Not absolutely necessary, but does help keep the bolt head from "wandering" while pushing the unit bearing out.

Find a small ball bearing, measure so your drill bit is slightly smaller than the ball, drill roughly half the diameter of the ball into the center of the bolt head. Press ball into hole. If you misjudge and the ball is loose, you can stake it in place by using a centerpunch to make a ring around the ball.

Actually easier to use than to explain.

I've used this on a junkyard axle when there was no steering on the axle. Takes <5min /side after calipers are off & unit bolts loose. I try to keep a couple in my trail tool box.


Originally Posted by CCKen (Post 28026449)


Originally Posted by CCKen (Post 35393689)
For your reference, here's a spark plug application chart. The NGK ZFR5N plugs are a good option to the Champion RC12ECC plugs. The OEM plug part numbers are new and as of last week, are on back order so I don't know who makes them.


Originally Posted by RLE (Post 31725074)

The terminology for the Jeep's steering parts has changed over the years.
At one time every part of it was a "tie rod" this or a "tie rod" that. Around
1997 the part from the pitman arm to the passenger knuckle began to be
called a "drag link" and the straight portion to the driver's side is just the
"tie rod". Some vendors use the new terminology, some do not. It is best
to start from the Mopar diagrams and part numbers.

Here are the Mopar p/ns and the corresponding Moog part numbers
for the stock XJ tie rod setup.

These are components for the drag link which goes from the pitman
arm to the passenger side wheel and has 22mm threads throughout :
5200-6592 drag link socket at pass. side knuckle (RH threads )>> Moog DS1238
5200-5742 drag link adjustment tube
5200-5739 socket at pitman arm (LH threads) >>>>> Moog ES3096L

This is for the straight tie rod which goes from the drag link to the driver's
side wheel and has smaller 11/16" - 18 threads throughout:
5200-5741 tie rod outer socket at driver's side knuckle LH threads >>>> Moog ES3094L
5200-5743 tie rod adjustment tube
5200-5740 tie rod inner socket (attaches to drag link) RH threads>>>> Moog ES3095R

Why RH and LH threads?
The tubes are threaded RH and LH on each end so they can be
used as adjusters. When the ends and tube are mounted on
the Jeep and the clamps on the tube are loosened, you can then
turn the tube one way and the total distance from end-to-end will
shorten. Turning the tube the other way will lengthen the distance.

The tie rod adjuster tube is used to adjust toe-in when doing an alignment.
The drag link adjuster tube is used to adjust steering wheel position.

I would suggest you download the Mopar Parts Catalog for your 94 XJ from this
site (for free). You'll want the file called 1994-1996 PDF (47,851 KB)
It has diagrams and p/ns for just about everything on your Jeep.
The Mopar info above came from Figure 19-420 in it.

Attachment 2331658


Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim (Post 32961674)
1997-01 Jeep Cherokee Stereo Information
Constant (memory) 12V+ Pink/Yellow
Switched (main power) 12V+ Red/White
Ground Black
Illumination Orange/Brown
Dimmer Black/Light Blue
Front Speakers
Left Front (+) Dark Green
Left Front (-) Brown/Red
Right Front (+) Purple
Right Front (-) Dark Blue/Red
Rear Speakers
Left Rear (+) Brown/Yellow
Left Rear (-) Brown/Light Blue
Right Rear (+) Dark Blue/White
Right Rear (-) Dark Blue/Orange

How to pull your XJ motor

Originally Posted by FairlanePhil (Post 33397282)
Swapping an engine in two days is a pretty tough job. I did it once but it took two weekends. All the stupid BS you run into like issues disconnecting AC and trans cooler lines eats valuable time. If you had the engine in the donor running today to confirm it's soundness and had your current engine ready to pull before Saturday morning MAYBE you could pull this off.

Some things to help speed up the engine removal:

•*Pull the airbox out.
•*Pull the battery out
•*Pull the grill, header panel, radiator and AC condenser
•*remove the 4 bolts holding on the AC compressor. Swing it away with the lines intact.
•*Remove the power steering pump and with the lines still attached set it in the space the airbox occupied
•*Remove all the header bolts and pull the header off the studs. Unplug the throttle body sensor wires and vacuum lines and swing the intake away from the engine. Leave the injector harness and fuel rail attached.
•*undo the torque converter bolts.
•*Remove the starter and set it aside.
•*Put a jack under the trans and hook up your crane
•*Unclip the CPS and unbolt the bracket that holds it's harness in place. Unbolt the ground strap
•*pull the trans bolts
•*pull the engine mount bolts
•*spill fluids everywhere while pulling the engine

The time now is 03:58 AM.

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