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Upgrading Positive Battery Cables... Lots of pick
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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Upgrading Positive Battery Cables... Lots of pics* Writeup
Well here goes my writeup on upgrading my positive battery cables!
The long side of the harness is 30inches and the short side is 13 inches But just like before, ive been buying cables longer than needed so i can have more room to move around (My short was way to long...) Ok lets start... Begin by removing all the plastic covers over the battery cables to expose them! Here are the tools you are going to need Extension, 8mm socket, 9/16mm socket, # 15, # 10, Ratchet will small tip, Regular ratchet, Vice grip, needle nose pliers... (Not pictured, i used a dremil to cut plastic, but you can use a knife or blade) ![]() disconnect the battery... ![]() Disconnect the starter power and the green solenoid wire... ![]() Remove the bracket that holds the cables in place... ![]() Now pull the harness up and take a good look at how thin it is... ![]()
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Justin Mila 1993 Country XJ- AW4, 4.0 HO, Chy 8.25, Homebrew K&N Intake... DailyDriver 2002 Laredo WJ- Broken Bumper Mod... Weekend Toy 2007 Nike Dunks Size 12... Backup Blue Jeep Club Member # 221 Quote:
Last edited by Jmila1901; 08-02-2007 at 08:36 PM.. |
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#2 | |
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Registered User
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With a dremil or a cutting tool, separate the power from the starter solenoid cable...
![]() Here are the cables i am going to be using... 2 gauge ![]() Brass Terminals... ![]() Ok now take your old harness and cut off the piece that goes to the Power distribution center... Place it back on the PDC where it was on before, were going to be using it as a link... ![]() Run the new cables down the same location you removed your old ones from and bolt them back down... When i did this, i covered them back up with the old plastic wrap i removed at first... ![]() Button everything up again, connect the battery cables to the Brass terminals... ![]() Check your work and crank her up!!! Ohh yeah!! Im done with the power cables!! The only thing i still have left to do is shorten the cable coming from the Power Distribution Center... I bought an extra long one at West Marine thinking i would need the length, which i didn't...
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Justin Mila 1993 Country XJ- AW4, 4.0 HO, Chy 8.25, Homebrew K&N Intake... DailyDriver 2002 Laredo WJ- Broken Bumper Mod... Weekend Toy 2007 Nike Dunks Size 12... Backup Blue Jeep Club Member # 221 Quote:
Last edited by Jmila1901; 08-02-2007 at 06:20 PM.. |
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#3 |
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Have these been merged yet?
Anyway, worked today on removing the stock positive and negative cables. I dont know if its because of the year or what...but I only have one black cable connected to the block. Also I have 4 red cables coming off the positive batt terminal each going to the following - starter, alternator, aux fan (i think), and the start relay right next to the batt. Whats up with the differences? Edit: just finished reading this - http://www.olypen.com/craigh/charge.htm It helped me out a little bit with the change in years. However im stilll confused on this fusible link stuff...
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-87 XJ 4.0 5spd, 2"BB, 31" BFG ATs on 15x8 Eagle 058s, trimmed and doorless -01 TJ 4cyl auto FT 3" lift 33" Goodyear AT/S & BFG muds herculined tub Last edited by rocketman121; 08-23-2007 at 02:08 AM.. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: morris county- new jersey
Posts: 1,542
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is this the "big 3" upgrade?
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( northjerseyjeepclub.org ) 99 cherokee sport auto/231 - RK 3 link long arms, RE 5.5" coils, RC 4.5 leafs w/ RE 1.5" boomerang shackles, RE track bar & bracket, JKS disco's, rustys/RC shocks, P.O.R.C SYE w/ front drive shaft, rugged ridge steering, OR-fab front winch bumper w/ superwinch LP8500, surco roofrack, airflow snorkel, bushwackers & 33" maxxis bighorns . 95 cherokee sport auto np231 - 4.5 RE coils, OME 3 inch full packs, stock track bar ,RE upper and lower control arms, JKS quicker disco's,RC shocks and steering stab.stock tires/rims,t-case from the 99xj, slowly being robbed of all its part before it goes to the JY |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Nice. This might help me with my ignition shorting out problem.
Did you get your parts from the regular ol auto store?
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93 Cherokee bone stock My old 84 Scrambler doing it's thing: [url]http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i285/VR-92/011_8.jpg[/url] |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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You can get the brass terminals at an auto store... But no, i didnt get the cables at an auto store... i got them at a marine shop, you can also get them at home depot i think and just clamp on some ends, same deal, but autozone doesnt usually have 2 guage, max ive seen their is 4 guage... which is fine for most applications anyways...
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Justin Mila 1993 Country XJ- AW4, 4.0 HO, Chy 8.25, Homebrew K&N Intake... DailyDriver 2002 Laredo WJ- Broken Bumper Mod... Weekend Toy 2007 Nike Dunks Size 12... Backup Blue Jeep Club Member # 221 Quote:
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#7 | |
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Registered User
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No i decided not to merge the writeups... they are all side by side on the sticky section...
This write up does not apply to the older renix style engines... And for the other guy, this is not the big three, i only replaced two ground cables... the big three links something else if im not mistaken
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Justin Mila 1993 Country XJ- AW4, 4.0 HO, Chy 8.25, Homebrew K&N Intake... DailyDriver 2002 Laredo WJ- Broken Bumper Mod... Weekend Toy 2007 Nike Dunks Size 12... Backup Blue Jeep Club Member # 221 Quote:
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#8 | ||
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 3,455
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Quote:
Quote:
IMO, stock Renix positive cables are: * From alt. to the small distribution (?) block found close to the battery. * From that same block to the battery * From battery directly to starter. Electric fan shouldn't go straight from the battery, but through a relay. edit: Starter solenoid gets the +12V "info" from the starter relay, which is located close to (or right next to, can't really remember) the distribution block. Never looked into my engine wiring that thoroughly though since I've really had no serious problems with 'em. However, I did upgrade my ground and positive wiring between battery, block, alt. and starter since the OEM wires were in pretty crappy condition.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX, 100k miles, 1.75" BB, 32 x 11.50 BFG MT KM2s, custom- fabbed bumpers etc.. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/daily-driver-5-9-build-thread-bumpers-tube-rockers-etc-1222317/ 1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles*** ***Under construction*** 1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear, etc... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/hybrid-cage-build-exo-cage-internal-973910/ |
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#9 |
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The "Big 3" is Alternator to battery, battery to engine/frame, and engine to frame. So he has done all 3 basically throughout his 3 wiring upgrades.
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Florida-why do we have a Mt Dora?
Posts: 1,456
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I did this (plus the neg, and ground strap) last night and my jeep starts up without hesitation now. I used the cables from Advance Auto Parts. What I did, is insted of buying the brass terminals, I bought: pos and neg with the terminals attached (for the conection to the battery + starter, and battery - engine), then I purchased a shorter cable for the ground strap. For the battery - to frame, and the battery + to PDC, I used car audio wire I "aquired" from my gf. Just standard 4 guage all around, as I figured that was plenty.
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#11 |
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Registered User
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ok, before i get this done let me make sure i am doing this right. 1st cable from battery to starter. 2nd cable from battery to that ignition thing beside the battery
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#12 | |
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Man In Black
![]() Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Chicago-area (Western Suburbs)
Posts: 2,068
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Quote:
I did all of these and the alternator cable as well when I replaced mine.
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-Marc- Sweet Pea 1998 - XJ http://www.grobe.us/Jeep - JeepForum Rules - Become a Premium Member or Vendor For Sale: (4) AR 767-5766 Wheels (used) 15x7, 5x4.5, 4.5BS - for local pickup in the Chicago-area |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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I got a little lost on the smaller positive lead going to the solenoid that was seperated at birth by the dremel tool. You re-use the smaller wire and bundle it back in with the harness? You didn't replace it as well?
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#14 |
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Web Wheeler
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The smaller wire is the "remote" wire so no current flows so you don't need to upgrade the wire. It most likely got installed back in its OEM fashion.
Whats up with using red for the Ground cable for the Block to firewall location? Most gains of upgrading are seen when doing the Alt, It looks like you did but did not post any pictures? Is that because of not getting a good view of the alt? It looks like you have 3 wires coming of the + battery terminal... or is that from the wire double backing on it self for the power distribution....
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NAXJA Member #2619 1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L B&M Transmission Cooler and Autometer Tranny Temp Gauge, Ruff Stuff Diff Cover on D30. Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R. Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter. Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44. Dual Oil Relocation Kit running two K&N301 size filters, Autometer Digital Cobalt Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauge. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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"The smaller wire is the "remote" wire so no current flows so you don't need to upgrade the wire."
So we get under there, do all this work, and put the same wire back on the smaller post on the solenoid? Edit: Not busting anyone's chops here by the way. Just trying to understand what the steps are. |
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