Upgrading my drag link and tie rod - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 06-19-2017, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
fourlow
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1994 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: Venice Beach, California
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Xj Upgrading my drag link and tie rod

Hi all,

Doing a huge steering overhaul of everything right now and while I'm at it, I'm going to upgrade the tie rod and drag link since I have it all taken apart. I know Currie has the reputation of being an outstanding company and it seems like their Currie Currectlync Heavy-Duty Tie Rod System - CE-9701 is a pretty solid upgrade.

I run a 94XJ with a RE 3.5 Superflex kit, is this going to be overkill? It states that its a direct replacement of the stock components. Is anyone running this on theirs and did you run into any issues with the install? I just want opinions before i drop 500 bucks on this upgrade.

Thanks!


Current setup:
94 Xj 110,000 miles
Rustys Air Tube
JeepersandCreepers Bored out TB
GDI 3 core radiator
Flowkooler Water Pump

Suspension:
RE 3.5" (actual about 4 inches) 6030 SUPER-FLEX, RE1600 Adjustable Track Bar

Wheels/Tires:
Rock Crawler 152 Series, 3.75 Backspacing
31inch BFG MT's
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-19-2017, 02:32 PM
brandonc0320
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I've been looking into cavfab4x4 crossover steering and it seems really stout for less money than the Currie setup. And the Currie setup is still an inverted y type setup.

http://cavfab.com/CavFab-Jeep-CrossO...JMJ_p_105.html

Review for yourself.
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-19-2017, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
fourlow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonc0320 View Post
And the Currie setup is still an inverted y type setup.

http://cavfab.com/CavFab-Jeep-CrossO...JMJ_p_105.html

Review for yourself.

And is that a bad thing though really?

Current setup:
94 Xj 110,000 miles
Rustys Air Tube
JeepersandCreepers Bored out TB
GDI 3 core radiator
Flowkooler Water Pump

Suspension:
RE 3.5" (actual about 4 inches) 6030 SUPER-FLEX, RE1600 Adjustable Track Bar

Wheels/Tires:
Rock Crawler 152 Series, 3.75 Backspacing
31inch BFG MT's
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-19-2017, 03:30 PM
brandonc0320
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It's just really not that great of a set up for lifts. Due in part to the extra angle it puts on the drag link in comparison to the crossover setup
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-19-2017, 08:34 PM
bluejunior
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourlow View Post

And is that a bad thing though really?
The angles aren't ideal for lifts, the toe changes as the suspension cycles, the setup is more prone to death wobble after wear than crossover, a few other issues like tie rod roll are built in. It's not a horrible thing with mild lifts, but it's definitely not a good thing. Crossover through a drilled knuckle or even bettter a WJ swap are definitely better options but with OP's 3.5 lift it'll certainly work and currie or similar will stand up to abuse much better than stock, and that's what you're buying with any upgrade kit that maintains stock geometry.

Lifted, Locked, Stiffened

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post #6 of 16 Old 06-20-2017, 07:25 AM
brandonc0320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post

The angles aren't ideal for lifts, the toe changes as the suspension cycles, the setup is more prone to death wobble after wear than crossover, a few other issues like tie rod roll are built in. It's not a horrible thing with mild lifts, but it's definitely not a good thing. Crossover through a drilled knuckle or even bettter a WJ swap are definitely better options but with OP's 3.5 lift it'll certainly work and currie or similar will stand up to abuse much better than stock, and that's what you're buying with any upgrade kit that maintains stock geometry.
But if you look at the cost of the cab Fab set up, and look at how it's built, and look at the price... It seems like a better deal. And gives him the option to go higher in the future if the OP so chooses. Just trying to save some coin while putting the crossover option out there
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-20-2017, 07:45 AM
oldjeepman60
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I put the Currie kit on the daughters 99 last yr. with and 4.5" lift and synergy long arm with no problems no Death wobble .just my .02

AEV Hi-Line and some stuff
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-20-2017, 12:51 PM
75SV1
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Might look at the JKS steering components. They are $$. Uses a WJ setup and TRE. I think BlueJunior might have posted it in another thread. I haven't used the Johnnie Joints like the CavFab setup. My neighbor doesn't like them. Any opinions??
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post #9 of 16 Old 06-20-2017, 01:07 PM
bluejunior
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I never looked at the complete JKS kit, I JY dove for my knuckles and calipers and some other pieces. I was considering them because they were the only place offering a kit that uses the OEM WJ TRE's.

I scrapped the idea of using JKS because the GM "1 ton" kits are cheaper, even including the reamer, than the JKS option.

Lifted, Locked, Stiffened

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post #10 of 16 Old 06-20-2017, 01:30 PM
75SV1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post
I never looked at the complete JKS kit, I JY dove for my knuckles and calipers and some other pieces. I was considering them because they were the only place offering a kit that uses the OEM WJ TRE's.

I scrapped the idea of using JKS because the GM "1 ton" kits are cheaper, even including the reamer, than the JKS option.
I have the Ruff Stuff kit. I think about $200 with TREs. I might have seen the JKS kit at the time or not. I think in the previous thread, I mentioned that the WJs TREs were $50 at NAPA for the good ones. I think $30 elsewhere. The JKS is I think $110 and $180 for the links, then add the TREs. It would be no welding, except for the panhard bar (??).
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post #11 of 16 Old 06-20-2017, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
fourlow
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The Cavfab kit is interesting after looking into it a little further. Same with the JCR kit. When I'm not riding the motorcycle to work, my XJ is also my daily driver. At this point I just need to decide what to do. I don't mind dropping the money on Currie since its direct bolt on and I don't have to ream anything (both JCR and CavFab require reaming). I don't do any serious rockcrawling or anything anymore and just run trails and other non sketchy offroad stuff. At this point I just don't want to worry about crap breaking on me anymore and I don't plan on going higher with lift.

The stock aluminum steering bracket already broke once on me, so I replaced that with the JCR version. Instead of that breaking, this time the bolts just snapped and once again my steering box dropped down. I still have no idea why this happened twice to me and at this point its a fear that I have in the back of my mind about it happening again. Luckily both times it was at low speed.

So many options! What should I do internet strangers??

Edit:
Why does the JCR and CavFab do away with the steering stabilizer?

Current setup:
94 Xj 110,000 miles
Rustys Air Tube
JeepersandCreepers Bored out TB
GDI 3 core radiator
Flowkooler Water Pump

Suspension:
RE 3.5" (actual about 4 inches) 6030 SUPER-FLEX, RE1600 Adjustable Track Bar

Wheels/Tires:
Rock Crawler 152 Series, 3.75 Backspacing
31inch BFG MT's
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post #12 of 16 Old 06-20-2017, 05:33 PM
brandonc0320
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Because a finely tuned steering setup does not "need" a steering stabilizer. However, at least with the cabfab setup, you can buy the steering stabilizer mount.
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post #13 of 16 Old 06-21-2017, 05:37 AM
75SV1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonc0320 View Post
Because a finely tuned steering setup does not "need" a steering stabilizer. However, at least with the cabfab setup, you can buy the steering stabilizer mount.
My neighbor gave me one off of a Chevy Truck. They were having a recall last year. Looks about the same.
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post #14 of 16 Old 06-21-2017, 06:20 AM
RedJeepster1
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I wouldn't spend $500 on a factory style steering setup. For that money you have a ton of options. The heim setup like cavfab has is nice since you can do a crossover steering setup with the stock knuckles. That's a big advantage. I have a set of WJ knuckles and brakes and will be doing GM TRE's simply because I would rather have a tapered fitting so there is less chance of something coming loose. You can't do a true crossover setup with TRE's without changing or significantly modifying the knuckles though.

Regarding the steering stabilizer, if everything in your system is set up properly you won't need it. I personally have a tire that just won't balance completely out and therefore could not run without the stabilizer. With a different set of tires the Jeep runs down the road no problem with no stabilizer and stock steering setup.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Red XJ w/ 350k+, AW4, NP231, Locked Rear, HD Crown Leafs, trimmed to fit 33's, soon to be a donor
2000 Silver XJ, Drivetrain from the Red XJ, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's <=== In the works
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post #15 of 16 Old 06-21-2017, 06:50 AM
-OIIIIIIIO-01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedJeepster1 View Post
Regarding the steering stabilizer, if everything in your system is set up properly you won't need it.
I just finished my WJ swap and have not put my SS on yet, and I too have not had issues. Matter of fact, I'm running no SS, no sway bars, no track bar! Keep in mind my platform is a YJ, but I can run 75 mph no problem and I live in the state with the worst roads in the country!

91 YJ 4.0/AX15/231J
HP D30 /Akebono's /1 Ton GM Crossover Steering
Ford 8.8/ Trac loc LSD
35x12.5x16 Nitto Trail Grapplers
Walbro255 MetalCloaks
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