Unknowingly overheated..now ripping into the motor - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 07-11-2013, 12:22 AM   #16
AZ Jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeperez View Post
The head looks OK but I was considering taking it to a machine shop just to make sure it is good. How much would refinishing a head run me roughly?

The dealer wants $194.00 for a single cylinder.. and doesn't include the ring. Autozone has a set of 6 with rings for $122.00. Does anyone know if it will be an exact fit?
You are mixing apples and oranges here. Rings are part of the cylinder block/pistons. Head work does NOT involve rings.

I don't know what the going rate in your area is for a head "refresh", but $20-30 per cylinder sounds in the ballpark for a competent shop that also checks the head for flatness and cracks.

You still have not addressed the question I raised about cylinder wall flame cutting. If that is present, just slapping in new rings won't fix the basic issues of compression loss.

Cylinder roundness and taper MUST BE MEASURED before making any assessment as to how to repair the block.

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Unread 08-11-2013, 05:28 AM   #17
Jeeperez
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Ill be taking the #1 cylinder out today and figuring out where to go from there
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[QUOTE=daverubino;10133980]Sell your YJ???? Why would anyone do that. You dont sell YJ's you just keep them until they become parts heeps for your next one.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 08-11-2013, 08:00 AM   #18
Jeeperez
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Now my question is, how do you get the oil pan out?? It's unbolted and free from the engine but I cannot maneuver it out of the way? Any help??
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[QUOTE=daverubino;10133980]Sell your YJ???? Why would anyone do that. You dont sell YJ's you just keep them until they become parts heeps for your next one.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 08-11-2013, 09:40 AM   #19
Jeeperez
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Can anyone chime in please? I absolutely cannot get this stupid oil pan out
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[QUOTE=daverubino;10133980]Sell your YJ???? Why would anyone do that. You dont sell YJ's you just keep them until they become parts heeps for your next one.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 08-11-2013, 09:54 AM   #20
mayeni
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You have to drop the front axle as far down as possible, you could even disconnect the shockes to lower it more, just be aware of you brakelines.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 10:38 AM   #21
Randy99cherokee
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Head.

Decent machine shop should deck the head and do valve job. Around $250. will need the valve seals to give to shop. usally cheaper to order full gasket set, make sure valve seals are in it. Need to check the bore and make sure no scratch/gouge. would assume bore is scratched.......Ticking is usally the overheated oil, viscosity way to thin and everything was ticking/slamming.... Need to deck/surface head after major overheat, hope u can check the block deck too....Don't wanna do the work then blow headgasket...
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Unread 08-11-2013, 10:40 AM   #22
Jeeperez
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I got the pan out and got pistons 1 and 2 out. 1 is scratched but I'm getting 3.895 measuring what is it supposed to be?
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[QUOTE=daverubino;10133980]Sell your YJ???? Why would anyone do that. You dont sell YJ's you just keep them until they become parts heeps for your next one.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 08-11-2013, 11:19 AM   #23
Jeeperez
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image-4034418235.jpg

You can see in the picture where the cylinder wall is messed up. I'm polishing the cylinder as we speak but these spots are going to be tough
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[QUOTE=daverubino;10133980]Sell your YJ???? Why would anyone do that. You dont sell YJ's you just keep them until they become parts heeps for your next one.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 08-11-2013, 04:26 PM   #24
BassMasterCHS
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Coming off of a rebuild due to a similar failure to my engine, I'd be looking at a complete rebuild.. Or swapping in a used engine.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 07:52 AM   #25
Jeeperez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassMasterCHS
Coming off of a rebuild due to a similar failure to my engine, I'd be looking at a complete rebuild.. Or swapping in a used engine.
Well I'm going to try and fix this one. If not I'm not even going to bother with this jeep and sell. I have enough problems with my YJ that I can't keep up with both.

I got that cylinder polished , rechecking my measurements ten times I'm getting 3.875 or roughly that on all. Am I safe buying the standard size piston from autozone?



image-642935900.jpg



image-1501941038.jpg

This piston really wore. The rings are seized and almost none existant
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[QUOTE=daverubino;10133980]Sell your YJ???? Why would anyone do that. You dont sell YJ's you just keep them until they become parts heeps for your next one.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:40 AM   #26
AZ Jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeperez View Post
Well I'm going to try and fix this one. If not I'm not even going to bother with this jeep and sell. I have enough problems with my YJ that I can't keep up with both.

I got that cylinder polished , rechecking my measurements ten times I'm getting 3.875 or roughly that on all. Am I safe buying the standard size piston from autozone?



Attachment 656366
Ummmm..........I don't even know where to begin here, but allow me to ask some questions:

1. HOW did you measure the cylinder bore? You need to measure both top and bottom and you need measurements in both the axis of the crankshaft and the width of the block. This measures the bore for taper AND roundness.

Here are the factory specs. for a 4.0:
Diameter -- 3.8759 to 3.8775 inches.
Taper--max of 0.001
Out of round--max of 0.001

If your bore does not meet the above specifications after "polishing", then it needs to be bored oversized and an oversized piston fitted.

2. HOW did you polish the bore? Did you use a hone? I suspect not, since I see no cross hatching marks. If you did not hone the bore, you can forget getting the rings to seat to the walls and you will have the same damage to the rings as before in very short order.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 03:47 PM   #27
Jeeperez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Jeff
Ummmm..........I don't even know where to begin here, but allow me to ask some questions:

1. HOW did you measure the cylinder bore? You need to measure both top and bottom and you need measurements in both the axis of the crankshaft and the width of the block. This measures the bore for taper AND roundness.

Here are the factory specs. for a 4.0:
Diameter -- 3.8759 to 3.8775 inches.
Taper--max of 0.001
Out of round--max of 0.001

If your bore does not meet the above specifications after "polishing", then it needs to be bored oversized and an oversized piston fitted.

2. HOW did you polish the bore? Did you use a hone? I suspect not, since I see no cross hatching marks. If you did not hone the bore, you can forget getting the rings to seat to the walls and you will have the same damage to the rings as before in very short order.
It was honed with a specific honing tool I bought from Harbor Freight, a 2-4" one. It's 3 pronged with a spring with stones at each prong..rotated by drill. Is it supposed to leave cross marks?

I did not measure it personally, my father did with a measuring tool also from Harbor Freight..he measured inside and got 3.875. I can remeasure or have him remeasure. How do you figure taper and out of round?
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[QUOTE=daverubino;10133980]Sell your YJ???? Why would anyone do that. You dont sell YJ's you just keep them until they become parts heeps for your next one.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 08-12-2013, 04:27 PM   #28
Griff1918
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Taper= Mic set at top measurement the slid down cylinder.
Out of round= set Mic at measurement at top of cylinder and rotate. If it get tight or loose. That will show out of round.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:33 PM   #29
AZ Jeff
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Exactly what tool did you use to measure bore diameter? The most common tool is a set of telescoping guages and a micrometer of the appropriate size. Is that what you used? A dial caliper is not good enough.....
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1992 XJ -- stock (RIP)
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:36 PM   #30
AZ Jeff
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I will add one other comment--damage like I saw in your photos generally needs an oversized bore with a matching piston to properly correct the damage....
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1992 XJ -- stock (RIP)
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2014 JK -- the project is just starting!
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