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Unread 01-29-2008, 12:00 PM   #1
edolivett
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uh oh... jeep shuts off while driving...

so about a week ago, my jeep just kept dying on the way to work. it would also "jump" while i was accelerating. I was reading on here about the CPS, so i switched that out. thought the problem was fixed. then it started doing the exact same thing again yesterday. any ideas?

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Unread 01-29-2008, 12:12 PM   #2
jeeptorino68
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heck your ground straps ive had something similar happen though, there was no bucking when it died but its worth a shot. there is one on the back of the block to the firewall, and one from battery to block and batter to inner fender, if any are loose or corroded it may cause this problem
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Unread 01-29-2008, 01:42 PM   #3
tjwalker
It's the crank sensor!
 
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Basics first; how old is your distributor cap, rotor and wires? Replace if any question as they are inexpensive parts.

Other possibilities could be the coil (which you can check resistances on) and the camshaft position sensor (located inside the distributor). This is sometimes referred to as the pickup coil or stator.

Does it start right back up when this happens? Does it take a while and then start? If that is the case, then some component may be suffering from a thermal (heat) failure.

If it doesn't start right back up, you should try to determine if you have spark or not but putting a spare spark plug into one of the spark plug wires and holding it near a good piece of grounding metal and look for the spark while having a buddy crank the engine over.

Some things to think about.....
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Unread 01-29-2008, 03:24 PM   #4
cid98
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When you replaced the CPS did it run well for a period of time?
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Unread 01-29-2008, 04:57 PM   #5
collkid
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Original posters friend...

Yeah we replace the CPS about 4 days ago. we just replaced the TPS and it started and ran for about 10 seconds, now its dead it just turns over all day...

Any Ideas? might the Cam Shaft Sensor be causing this? is so any pictures/write ups?

Thanks guys!!


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Unread 01-30-2008, 12:05 AM   #6
collkid
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SWEET! got it figured out, seems like it was the Ignition Coil. Cost about $35 and now its totally fine!


Thanks guys!
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Unread 01-30-2008, 10:59 PM   #7
BiGsTiCk
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Ignition coil

Mines doing the same thing 240k miles complete engine rebuild and some extras and now it's trying to shut off at lights or while driving down the interstate. checked list = new alternator, new fuel filter, tomorrow replacing crank sensor. Now I'm thinking could be ignition coil though since it almost sounds the same. Mine will sit and idle forever but intermittently idles high for a couple of seconds then back to normal. 92 Cherokee sport daily driver and my girls missed work cause no CJ-5 for her so it's costing me money not running =) I'm torn guys should I try fuel pump,crank sensor, or ignition coil. crank sensor is 39.95 around the same as engine coil..then after I fix all that it will be fuel pump watch..lol
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Unread 01-31-2008, 01:05 AM   #8
collkid
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Well have you ever done any of those? the Ignition Coil is harder to get to on these years, you'd have to take out the Motor Mount. So i would start with the CPS. very common problem. thats what i Original thought it was on "edolivett's" Jeep.
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Unread 06-27-2008, 06:33 PM   #9
Hostel420
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My 91 XJ Dies but starts right back up. When i have my heat on the jeep dies less. Got any idea what component could have Thermal Heat Failure.
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Unread 06-27-2008, 06:59 PM   #10
xjfever
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the ignition coil is prone to thermal failure, a while back mine would start right up in the morning but after a long enough drive to get it to operating temp, if you shut it off it would not start back. then after it cooled for a while it would start right up. ended up being the coil.
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Unread 08-23-2008, 11:05 AM   #11
defmornahan
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New Jeep owner, and this thread sounds as much like my problem as anything on the website. My '87 supposedly had a rebuilt engine ~75000 ago (202000 now, plus a few miles while my speedometer cable was broken...). The previous owner told me it had died on her twice, and she'd had the fuel line blown out. Well, it's started to die on me frequently, e.g., four or five times on my way to church, which is maybe 3 miles, although of course it's an intermittent problem. No warning before it dies, not that I've noticed. Only does it within a few miles of when I start. It's also intermittently very hard to start; starter turns over, takes maybe 20 or 30 sec for the engine to start sometimes. I've taken it to a local shop, who told me there was nothing wrong (because it didn't die for them, and probably started okay); I took it to the Jeep dealership, and that guy told me to get a Weber carb. So that's on order, and the Carter is on the floor in my garage.

However, as I like to double-check, I was reading this thread and noticed that the ignition coil sounds like a possible problem. The radiator was probably original and looks (from the cap) like it's rusted shut in places, and the engine overheats readily, so I'm also replacing the radiator. From what you guys are saying maybe the overheating has shot my ignition coil.

The plugs were somewhat deposit-covered and wide-gapped, so I replaced them, but as I say, the carb isn't here yet. Distributor cap looks immaculate, as do the wires (and the water pump, not that it matters to the dying problem). Checked resistance on the wires for the heck of it, and they seem fine.

So just to have my ducks in order in case the engine is still misbehaving when I put it back together and check the timing (sigh), there's:

Ignition coil
CPS (camshaft pos. sensor--these are the same, right? or is this crankshaft PS?)
TPS (throttle pos. sensor--again, I'm not up on the acronyms...)

that I can still check. Any more ideas?

Last edited by defmornahan; 08-24-2008 at 02:13 PM.. Reason: I'm an idiot
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Unread 09-23-2011, 07:01 PM   #12
cag03hd
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jeep shuts off Repaired

I have a 99 grand cherokee that would shut off at very inappropriate times my problem was in the electrical plugs under the hood on the passenger side rear firewall. Remove battery neg cable and coolant overflow tank and you will see the 3 plug terminals. I removed them and shot brake cleaner on the connections and pressed them back in. Problem gone. Next time your jeep shuts down try reaching in there and play with those connections and it should start back up. Good luck. If you need more info email me @ cag03hd@gmail.com
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Unread 01-12-2013, 05:35 PM   #13
KP876
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I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee, purchased 18 months ago for my son and we have struggled with the same stalling issues I see everywhere on line (unannounced at any speed and worse case scenarios). We have replaced almost everything and stalling keeps coming back. 3 days ago we replaced the Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASR), first replacement of this part. If you read the parts intention when bad it is exactly what is happening, since Thursday we have driven 200 miles with no repeat episode. The scary thing with this problem is i have read many threads and many different solutions. Hope this helps someone. We have replaced fuel filter, cleaned the throttle plate, computer, engine coil, battery, some of the wiring to the fuse box, I think the idle control sensor, oxygen sensor, and crankshaft sensor. I have lost track.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 08:47 AM   #14
KP876
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same problem....new fix?

I thought we had the stalling issues resolved. It came back a week after the relay replacement. However my mechanic felt the newish symptoms with no codes seemd to be the Crank Sensor, about 6 months ago they replaced the Crank Sensor with an after market piece, this time they put in a dealer Crank Sensor and for approx 1 week so far no reoccurence. One thing I love about Jeeps is she loves the tweaks, runs great from 7-14 days and pulls a new Gremlin for me. I am always hopeful we have found the last fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KP876 View Post
I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee, purchased 18 months ago for my son and we have struggled with the same stalling issues I see everywhere on line (unannounced at any speed and worse case scenarios). We have replaced almost everything and stalling keeps coming back. 3 days ago we replaced the Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASR), first replacement of this part. If you read the parts intention when bad it is exactly what is happening, since Thursday we have driven 200 miles with no repeat episode. The scary thing with this problem is i have read many threads and many different solutions. Hope this helps someone. We have replaced fuel filter, cleaned the throttle plate, computer, engine coil, battery, some of the wiring to the fuse box, I think the idle control sensor, oxygen sensor, and crankshaft sensor. I have lost track.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 12:54 PM   #15
sgt_rock
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I am posting this for those who might search at a later time.

Symptoms: Car would suddenly just shut off at low speed and on the highway it would make a sudden lurch like you tapped on the brakes.


I thought that the fuel pump might be going bad so I replaced it and the filter. After thinking about it, I realized that it acted like a sudden electrical failure in the ignition system. There was no sputtering like you would think that a fuel pump might cause. I should have listened to my instincts on that. So anyways, that wasn't the problem. I did lots of searching on the net and found things like bad grounds and ECM/PCM going bad etc. The one that made the most sense to me however was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The only problem was I never got an engine code, let alone a CE light warning so I was a little concerned. Anyways, I pulled mine out took it to the autoparts store along with my multimeter and I compared the resistance readings between pins A&B on each and B&C on the old one to the same pins on the new one. They were way out of wack so I bought the new one put it in and the problem was FIXED.


A note on replacement: The sensor is located on the top side of the transmission bellhousing where it meets the engine on the driver's side. The connector for it is on the PASSENGER side attached to the block about right under where the dash board starts, looking from the engine compartment towards the cabin.


I found people who took off the transmission cross member and people who went in through a small access hole under the dash from the cabin side. That all seemed like alot of work to me. I looked at mine and decided that from under the car with 30" of extension (I used two 6" and one 18") and an 11mm standard short socket, I could go over the transmission cross member and attack it straight on with NO swivels attached. (they can be such a pain to get on when you cant reach a bolt with your hand as they keep "going limp" while trying to hook them up). I easily removed the single bolt, letting it drop and used a hubcap tire iron to GENTLY pry the sensor up and out of it's hole but I left it hanging right there without moving it.


At this point I moved to the passenger side of the engine compartment and I unhooked the connector. I then took some string and made a slipknot (lasso type) and noosed the string over the neck of the connector. I made sure I had plenty of string waiting there. I then let that be and moved to the driver's side of the engine compartment. I removed the air box, took a coat hanger and easily fed it down to the dangling sensor and hooked into the now empty bolt hole of the sensor. I then fished it up the driver's side. (the string comes with it and allows you to attach your slipknot to the new connecor and reverse the process.) Don't unhook the slip knot from the new one until you have it connected. (cut the sting at that point)


To install the new one, I layed down on top of the engine and I took the new sensor, the little wire guard bracket and the 11mm bolt in my right hand and was able to reach down from the top and get the bolt started. I then moved to underneath the car and used the long extension to tighten the already started bolt.


This whole process took no more than 10 minutes and involved only removing the air intake box so I could lay up there.


A thought that came to me afterwards. My jeep is a 2WD version (rear axle) I don't know if maybe there is something about a 4WD version that wouldn't allow you to attack it with the 30" extensions or not but check that FIRST as it makes the job so easy.


I hope this helps someone.
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